That looks sweet. Been looking at that butt stock to put on my Cadex chassis. Is the adapter a separate purchase or comes with the stock?
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Adapter is separate, stock is Luth-AR, adapter is MDT.
Update - received the Magpul AICS magazine, it fits perfectly. A little break in on lips, but otherwise no issue. Feeds better than MDT, holds 10 rounds usable (MDT holds 8). With calipers show 2.8810 inside, so 2.86 COL no issue. MDT measures 2.83.
Sorry for the delay, was off visiting family.
The foam pad is aftermarket - Kel-Tec KSG Neoprene Cheek Pad, Various Thickness Available - Amazon item #B016TTG4OG - I went with 1/4", cost around12.50 with free S&H. Works nice, glue seems good so far.
The MBA-3 looks like a great stock. No personal experience but it's adjustments are based on MBA-1. Says it has anti-rattle screw, so as long as you get a repeatable snug shoulder and cheek weld it should do great. If you go that route, let us know how it did!
Visiting family for Independence Day. got to stop by Talladega. Really liking the range and people. John was RSO on the 600 and he was helping me on wind. Got a nice positive reinforcement when he said - let me know what range you want your good to go since you know what your doing. Felt good, not the best shooter that is for sure, but trying to get better. Some pictures of rifle as it now is configured along with some results.
Current configuration - 20 MOA EGW rail, Luth-AR MBA-1 with adapter, Stock rail with monopod and Magpul AICS 10 shot magazine.
http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/...psei9duxmz.jpg
After resetting scope for the 20 MOA rail shot a 1 MOA 50 point 5 shot with 4 x's. You guys probably can shoot better groups but for me was real pleased. Monopod helps me but lateral shift still needs some work on my part.
http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/...ps23cvu8ty.jpg
At 300 wind started to have more impact, note right side where it shows wind at impact, direction shift is a bear for me. John teaching me to look for the lull between shifts. He is a great guy, offered to teach me some more next trip out. I try and go mid-week when few people there. MOA 1.6 not the best but with wind I'm ok learning.
http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1m0n8qlo.jpg
Having now shot the rifle for 200 rounds here is my conclusion -
I really like the Stealth. Cost a few bucks - about 250 for stock, adapter and rail (MBA-3 if it works will drop that to about 210) to make on par with RPR. If you like the factory stock, only 60 to get a 20 MOA rail.
Direct comparison (my opinion only) to RPR:
Pro:
Lighter
Little less money approx 1200 Stealth to 1350-1550 RPR (18005 or 18008 model) including new stock, adapter and rail.
Handguard - like the Stealth a lot more
Accuracy - I would say equal for me anyway, the RPR is .8 avg for me, so is the Stealth at 100 yd. At Talladega, the Stealth did better for me.
Barrel nut and barrel swap out seems easier on Stealth, since it uses savage barrels, aftermarket has BA barrels that work.
Magazine - MDT is ok, AICS Magpul much better.
Cons:
RPR has a better bolt design, the shorter lift is a real winner. Stealth is more std type, so not as slick
Stock from factory for RPR is better out of the box.
Accuracy - equal in my opinion, my wife likes here RPR better.
Magazine - the stock Magpuls are pretty good, AICS Magpuls seem to be a little better.
All said in done, I'm happy with the Stealth. I like to tinker and upgrading it was fun for me (though learning how to remove the buffer tube was ugly). Others will form their own opinion, and I'm sure those who dislike Savage will call it junk. To each their own - In my opinion it is a fine rifle. It will shoot 1/2 MOA, the only limit right now is my ability.
Likes Berger 130 OTM's with H4350 at 41.5gr. (need to fine tune) and Hornady 140 ELD-M with H4350 at 41.3gr.
I'll keep posting results as I tune loads and seating depth if nobody minds. My son is getting a lot better, with his 300 Win Mag he shot all in the black.
Thanks Cameron
Savage 1X/11X rifles have never been the most attractive guns anyway. They've always been sort of clunky and ungainly in a way that says "cheap" rather than "accurate". That we and a number of major manufacturers have come to know the 110 look as also being indicative of accuracy tells me that we'll probably end up seeing the Stealth the same way.
Looking forward to your review.
Worked up 20 rounds of Berger 130 OTM with H4350 at 41.3, 41.5, 41.7 and 41.9. Hope to test Monday at 100 yds. Going to try to stabilize bench at local range to get more consistency. Hope one of these will improve on my .8 moa. Got sub 1/2 moa on a 3 shot group, widen to .8 with 5 shot.
Will post results
I know this is a dumb question, but what is the length of the barrel on your 6.5 stealth? Mine is 22" and the factory specs say 24". Are they making 2 different models?
I just checked it again against my Ruger precision and it's 2" shorter. I will check the one (Savage) at the store this morning and measure it. This gun just came in last Wednesday.
Checked another in stock gun and it's 22" also- looks like I'm calling Savage tomorrow.
Even Savage's website list the barrel length at 24". I called and a superviser is supposed to call me back. This makes me mad. I was annoyed that the scope mount had different size holes and was 0 MOA and not 20. But to screw up the barrel length is piss poor! The standard for 6.5 is 24".
The person I talked to Monday said a supervisor would call me in 24-48 hrs. Customer Service didn't seem to be aware of the issue and had to "download" the website page to show to her supervisor.
All of my distributors show it as 24", so I'm not too concerned if the website mysteriously changes.
RJ from Savage just called me and they are in the process of getting some new barrels in and will swap out the 22" in barrels for 24". But expect a 3-4 week turnaround. Way to go Savage :thumb:!
After reading this post I just measured my barrel and s.o.b it's 22"!!! I also noticed today that I already have rust started on the nut where the chassis meets the butt stock, there is no finish on my nut at all, never paid any attention to it before until just noticed rust. This chassis system is supposed to be cerekoted, must be they missed the nut, anyone else seeing this on theirs??
Well I checked and - you guessed it - 22". Has anyone heard process for swapping? Will they send replacement or do you have to send in? Also, I did notice some rust on castle nut when I replaced with fixed stock. I'm pretty sure that was std castle nut, nothing fancy there.
I was told the same thing about my new LRP with barrel issues, 8 weeks later I still had not received it so the LGS I bought it from traded me out of it for the Stealth. Now this. I will NOT be sending the rifle back to Savage. I wonder if they would just send me a new 24" barrel?
I will be contacting them in the morning cause I happen to be off tomorrow. Hoping the same as you guys are, barrel sent to me not a gun sent to them. The castle nut as they call it for whatever unknown reason is bothersome as well. I'd consider that as part of the chassis which is advertised as cerekoted. I keep my guns clean, but live in N.Y, central, and the humidity here is terrible all the time so protection from the elements is a must.. fingers crossed
I really can't get that they shipped out the rifles with a barrel 2" short of the specs . . . and with bolts that are already rusting
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Kingair001, I agree... the barrel is not a minor detail, it's arguably the most important part of the gun. Quality control is obviously non existent or in need of a major repair. I'm hoping to see them step forward and either pull the guns on the shelfs already off and fix the issue on their own rather then let more people get frustrated with a major mistake on their end. I saw another sitting at Runnings today, I'm gonna go check tomorrow and see if that too is 22". It's even harder to believe that they haven't caught it yet, or said boo about it.. how about a little red flag on their site when your looking at the stealth that there is a problem with x amount of models would be nice
No idea how it happened !
Might be the 'barrel department'
Where do these barrels come from ?
Might be the manufacturer who made a mistake ?
And the rusting bolts ?
What else will pop up next . . .
Tons of questions to be asked to the QC department . . .
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Contacted savage this morning, they knew of the barrel issue and said their in the process of making the replacement barrels now. They said it was a marketing error not manufacturer error so must be they intended on these having a 22" barrel. Anyways they won't send a barrel to you, you need to send the gun to them. My rust issue with the jam nut or castle nut as they call it will be taken care of also, no explanation on that just a response they will have a new one installed that will be cerekoted. Very friendly to deal with, hoping I don't have to wait 3 months to get my gun back though
Just read a post from someone with a .308 stealth and apparently their barrel is wrong as well. It was supposed to be 20" and he's measuring 18. I did ask for a 26" barrel and was told it would be an extra 150 bucks which wouldn't bother me other than they also said around 8-12 weeks to get the barrel made and install so said I'll just get the 24". Guess if was to spend 150 at all for a barrel I'd just spend 300 and get a custom at that point.
After the issues I had with Savage when I ordered the Stealth, I am soooo glad I told Savage to keep their Stealth in 6.5!! And got my money back. I went and got the Cabela's 10T in 6.5 Creedmor. Will be at the range in the morning to see how it does. And it is a 24" barrel. LOL
Personally, before I decided to pull the trigger on my 10 FCP-SR I was going to go with the Stealth. In my opinion I do understand being upset getting something different than what you thought you were, but honestly if these are shooting well with the 22" barrel why so much urge to stick it to savage and send your rifle away for the 24"? 22" is a pretty optimal length, atleast for .308 probably the best, I actually paid more for a 20" than the 24" variant because the ballistics is so similar but 22" would have been ideal in my opinion. And as far as the buffer tube nut on the stock, that is made or sourced by the stock manufacture and is probably not coated to avoid finish chipping because it is after all hardware.
I have a Savage 12 LRP in Creedmoor 6.5
For an out of the box rifle - not a custom build but for the money 🖒
My new scope arrived - Athlon Argos 6-24x50 BTR APMR FFP IR MRAD
Gonna install it and than re-zero it using Prime Ammo
Wonder how it will perform . . .
I'll keep you posted
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Honestly the rifles are all basically the same, that's why I went with the 10 FCP-SR. Besides the chassis system, the barrel, trigger, and action are very comparable, still 10 RD detachable mag, and with the money I saved I could buy the chassis system and have a stealth "clone", which I plan to do to an extent down the road. If I could have purchased the 10T I would have considered it as well, because it is again very comparable, same trigger, comparable action, barrel is close besides the lack of fluting, smaller mag but cheaper price. The benefit to the Stealth is really in the chassis system and the better 10 round magazines, besides that they are very comparable rifles, and I would be super happy to own any of them.
You're right
Actually it is an upgrade of the 10 series
And a nice rifle
Only reason I would go for a 24 or even a 26" barrel is for long range shooting 1000 + yards
For everything below it will perform perfectly with the 22" barrel
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To me, its a great rifle and actually exactly the rifle I was intending to "build". It is marketed as a lightweight precision type rifle. The chassis is called the "Lightweight Sniper System" (LSS). The goal was to be as light and compact as possible without sacrificing accuracy, which totally makes sense why they went with a collapsible stock and 22" barrel, and managed to keep it at around 9lbs. Not everyones cup of tea but I, and im sure others, think it is perfect for its intended purpose. Would you be better suited with something like your 12 LRP for bench and 1K+ shooting? Absolutely. But to have a rifle that you can carry for long distances fairly comfortably, while being able to ring steel out to 1k constantly, and punch paper accurately, that is quiet a feat. The use of a 22" barrel was definitely not a accident and ballastically its the " perfect " length for .308, imo. Just have to understand what the rifles intended use was.
Justin D, wasn't trying to stick it to Savage at all. Mine was in a 6.5 creed not the 308 so to me the 24" barrel will perform better than the 22" barrel for my intended use. As for the nut with no finish on it, I understand tooling marks from installing if any, but there is no finish on mine at all and just from the humidity in the air here it already has rust spots starting. Even after cleaning and oiling it still showing rust after a week's time from sitting. I'm not to big of a fan of pulling my brand new rig out at the range and the first thing I see is rust, guns black and then a glowing spot of orange just isn't my thing. No biggie though, just wanted it corrected is all