Yes Sir....Another "WTF" moment. It drives your knowledge base.
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Happy to help anytime …
shoot small ya’ll
j
But, but, but its only .003" too large!
Get a universal decapper from Lee. A great $13 investment. I keep one on a Lee “C” press.
Attachment 9326
[QUOTE=Stumpkiller;510971]Get a universal decapper from Lee. A great $13 investment. I keep one on a Lee “C” press./QUOTE]
But the Lee pins are too big for the smaller flash holes. I've only got 3 or 4 of them and none fit in my 6BR.
Just measured my Lee Universal pin at 0.068". So if your Lapua has a 1.5mm vent, yeah, you will need to find a small pin decapper.
Sucks to get all fancy. ;-)
Perhaps Redding in their infinite wisdom has discovered the need for small decapping pins and have them available for their customers, and if not I would next contact Harrel’s precision and get the correct die.
https://www.harrellsprecision.com/pr...ull-length-die
FYI Peterson small rifle primer brass in the Creedmoore calibers takes small decapping pin also.
Redding states their decapping pin is 0.060". That's 1.5mm. That's 2/1000 of a mm fat. Shouldn't upset the vent as much as shown in the first image.
https://www.redding-reloading.com/on...decapping-dies
Mine is .057, I measured it.
https://www.amazon.com/01059-Undersi.../dp/B00P73QSL0
I ordered the Master Hunter set and it came with two pins that size.
It may seem like symantics but the flash hole is 1.5mm that works out to be .05905. Therefore it would need to be smaller than that dimension to not interfear with the walls of th flashhole...if the european holds their diminsions true ie... manufacturing tolerences. Half my BR brass has had a .0625 pin pushed through it. I am sure many of us had to learn the hard way. It still works the way it is supposed to.
The recommendation is that you do not. This is because cases are held by the top of the rim, so all depth is based on that surface. Uniforming makes things less uniform because it is not based on a machined surface. People who have measured off the rim, find pocket depth to be uniform on best quality brass. That is not me and I forget who told me, but my uniformng tools basically sit idol!
EXACT-A-MUNDO! Especially when it’s being sold by a dude that talks the way the Primal guy does & spends the money he does (while making certain he lets us LOWLY Savage bottom-dwellers know how much better of a person he is because of the money he can spend on shooting/reloading equipment), yet has NO big wins backing up his name. Soooo, yeah! I wouldn’t buy a thing from him!
+1!! Definitely a good buy! I have one usually permanently installed in my old Lee Challenger press. And the other dies in my Dillon.
As for oversize de-capping pins. Why not just chuck it up in a drill and hand turn it down enough to fit? Use backed sandpaper or maybe a Diamond stone against it a bit. No biggie.
Here's a video of the pin in my Redding full length sizing die sliding into a new Lapua 6.5 CM case with SRP pocket. By the time I bought this die, I'd already unknowingly buggered up the flash holes in my brass.
<a data-cke-saved-href="https://youtu.be/U3qGfZzTz1I" href="https://youtu.be/U3qGfZzTz1I">https://youtu.be/U3qGfZzTz1I
For those that don't know.....This is from the public domain.
Apologies to Ernest T for a slight misdirection of the topic. Attachment 9328
Im not affected by Brand Loyalty or Disloyalty. I grew up in the days of the verbal Ford Chevy dodge truck wars. We talked plenty of Chit. In the end we were all still good friends. In the grand scheme of things....whatever makes you happy.
David,
As for the GIF, That was Orkans moniker on several forums going way back.
What is a good primer pocket reamer that will remove that ring? I have tried to do it with the Lee Case Conditioning tool, but all it seems to do is shine it a little.
I'd probably just use a small dia drill bit, turned by hand. Would work like a countersink. Go just enough to remove the burr. Even better would be a small center drill.
I don’t want to drill it out, it’s pretty wide and the hole will be even bigger then. I want to shave it down even with the bottom of the pocket. Right now, all the Lee tool is doing is highlighting the ridge.
Attachment 9357
Don't know about a reamer but the RCBS Primer Pocket Uniformer should do it.
How about clamping a 1/4" pin-punch or steel rod in a vice, setting the case over it, and and (lightly) tapping the ring flush with a 1/8" pin-punch. That will also bring you back closer to a small vent (you may need a small drill-bit in a pin vice to even them up to the proper diameter).
^^this might even be better as you can even up your flash holes.
Sorry, not enough info on the other. Use the center drill like a deburr tool. Just twist it until the flashing is gone.
Drill a couple out, load them up to shoot. Load an equal number of undamaged cases. Shoot them and see if You can see a difference on target.
This is a good option but I dont remember the drill diameter. I think it is .062. Works great on large primer brass. The included angle is 120 or 60 degrees per side. The tapered collar sets the amount of chamfer, or length from the mouth to the flashole.
Attachment 9360
That's perfect. And that cool little bushing thing on it too!
Now you got me. Another tool I can buy :)
Good choice. The Benchrite is another good one.
K&M is good stuff too, have had them for over 30yrs.
Well, that didn't work.
Attachment 9374
Either the bottom of the cutter is not designed to cut or the shoulder keeps it from contacting the bottom of the primer pocket. Either way, it didn't do anything to the ring.
Attachment 9375
Attachment 9376
This might be the next attempt to fix the problem.
Attachment 9378
yep. Good deal. I didn't realize the one you ordered didn't cut the bottom. I looked for one that was a carbide with a face cutting grind. I think this is the one you were after.https://op2.0ps.us/365-240-ffffff/op...large-main.jpg
I've been very pleased with my Sinclair carbide uniformers. Lots of excellent options today.
That was fast! I received the K&N pocket uniforming tool today and it worked like a champ on the few cases I tried it on. I used it with the handle I ordered and it chattered and didn't smooth out the ring entirely so I chucked it into a 1/4" power screwdriver and gave it a few turns and it smoothed the ring right out. I did it until the bottom was just smooth. I want to shoot these to see how the pockets look after firing. I don't want to ruin a bunch of Lapua brass by buggering up the primer pockets.
I didn't notice any difference shooting the brass that I uniformed so I guess I didn't take too much off. To tell the truth, I had visions of the back end of the case blowing out! Here's a couple of pics. Per the instructions, I adjusted the cutter to a depth of .121 and it looks like I didn't get all the way to the bottom of most pockets, but it did shave down that area around the flash hole that I boogered up using a decapper pin that was too large. The max depth is .123. I did try to see if there was a lip around those shaved areas, but I couldn't grab an edge with a pick, I think it just gradually swells up. I believe that ridge around the hole was causing inconsistent primer depth and CBTO measurements. I know the cases feel different when I seat the primers now.
Attachment 9394
Attachment 9395
It didn't occur to me to measure the depth of the new brass and compare it to the fired brass I uniformed. I did and the depth of the new brass is centered on .124", some are .001 over or under, which is probably measurement error on my part. The uniformed brass was all slightly short of .121, which is probably due to my caution. I gave it another try and used more pressure and let the cutter work longer. The three measured .121, .123 and .124".
Attachment 9396
I decided to get the Lyman hand primer and give hand priming a try.