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Yes, you are correct, they need to supply a whole bolt assembly to make this switch of calibers as quick and painless as possible... perhaps being done under conditions very different than sitting at a gunsmithing bench with a rifle vise.
My purpose was to secure a complete "second rifle" without the need for detailed disassembly or tools required. This satisfies all the requuirements. The choice will be determined by the conditions and this will make the choice so easy.
Schweet!!! 8) 8) :DQuote:
Originally Posted by ghostwriter
Ok maybe I'm missing something here. I see your point for the complete bolt assembly but to switch barrels you're still going to need the tools to do it. At least a barrel nut wrench and the proper headspace guages.
Ever see a takedown rifle? With more than one barrel? Same thing.
What? So it's the same barrel with a different chamber? Must be a tight fit to get a .338" bullet to push down a .308" hole. Or maby the .308" bullet is a bit lose in the .338" hole, I don't knowQuote:
Originally Posted by ghostwriter
Take down rifles with more than one barrel don't need to be headspaced every time you change barrels. The barrels more or less "snap" on and all barrels were headspaced for that one action. When you decide to put your old barrel back on you will need at least a barrel nut wrench and headspace gauges.
Yes, at the least you will need to tighten the barrel nut, but also note, these two different calibers use the same barrel, and muzzle brake. Of course the chamber is different as is the long hole down the middle. LOL
Well, let us know how it all works out in the end. To be honest, I'm pleasantly surprised they agreed to do the package deal as I honestly didn't think they would. I know I'm more than half-ways considering looking into getting a .300WM barrel and bolt setup for mine, as .300WM seems to be about the max for the tactical matches around here due to wear-n-tear on the steel targets.
Yes I'm aware of what a take down rifle is but the Savage is not set up that way in original form. I didn't see it clearly in your descriptions that that was what Savage was doing for you. So they are converting your action and barrels to take down form? That's pretty cool. I'd like to see how they do it (if it's similar to what other companies do). Post some pics when you get it back.
I admit I dont have the slightest idea what a 110ba is, but how does the barrel get installed to the proper position to insure correct and repeatable headspace, for both the new barrel and the original barrel?
Ever heard of headspace gauges?Quote:
how does the barrel get installed to the proper position to insure correct and repeatable headspace, for both the new barrel and the original barrel?
Quote:
Originally Posted by memilanuk
thats helpful, yes, I switch barrels on standard 110 actions. Im asking if this setup would/could be different.
I'm not getting what you're not getting... use go/no-go gauges for each caliber, just like you would any other barrel swap. Make some witness marks on the receiver/nut/barrel using alternating colors to make sure you're getting approx. the same torque and that everything is lining up i.e. brake timed 'up', etc.
What I dont understand is does ghostwriter think both barrels will just twist on and off without the need to verify or set headspace. If so, and if correct, HOW??
one way is to "glue" the nut with locktit or solder.
You're absolutely right there "BlueAvenger". That's one way.
@everyone else: ...Also, think for a minute, this ain't rocket science. Do you realize you put a "headspace gauge" in the chamber every time you load the rifle? A headspace gauge is just a tool to set the barrel the proper distance from the bolt face for the round to easily chamber and not so loose that it moves. Pretty simple actually. In a pinch you could take a spent round and stuff in the chamber just before the barrel hit the proper depth threading it onto the receiver and closing the bolt so the extractor clipped onto it, bottom the barrel and lock the nut. Torque it close enough to be in the ball park and then you're ready to load a live one and fire.
I'll keep you guys in the loop...
...other than it is possible to compress the case slightly given the mechanical advantage of the threads, if a person leans on the nut wrench a little too hard.
There's a reason headspace gauges come made out of solid steel.
Not saying it can't be done with a spent case; I've done it that way when I had a barrel in hand and a desire to go shoot and no gauge yet. It works, but its not necessarily the best way.
solid steel, true statement, but once the initial set is done with a "steel gauge", the muzzle brake would oriented properly and could be used to confirm the threading wasn't 'too much', or too little. Considering this rifle, the 110 BA, has a bake that is basically solid on the bottom, it makes a good second check to insure the barrel isn't too tight. I hear what you're saying, but a steel one wouldn't take up much space and a set of go/no-go gauges for each caliber don't take up much room either. Just add to the case and git er dun.
We know it's not rocket science. No need for all the smart remarks. I've rebarreled several rifles myself and while am no expert I have a good understanding of how to set headspace. What I and most everyone else on here was trying to clarify is exactly how you were doing it. The reason for that is because your initial comments sort of made it sound like you were having it set up as a switch barrel kinda like a Blaser, or some other quick take down rifle (Browing BLR takedown comes to mind). If you're doing it using witness marks where the nut stays in place that's a fine way to do it and you've also now indicated that you are using some tools which you implied originally that you could do all this with no tools. That's where the confusion came in and why so many questions were asked I think. Anyway glad to hear you're happy with it and good luck with your project.
I think what I implied or at least tried to was the use of minimal tools. My remarks were NOT smart in your meaning of the sentence and if you received it that way, I'm sorry. I have tried to explain that screwing a barrel on and off is not as difficult on this rifle as it might be on some others.
This is obviously new territory for some and if it turns out as I have hoped it will, it might catch on as a new method of owning two very nice high end rifles for the price of one and half at the most.
I can only admire your ability and understanding as to how and how not to re-barrel a rifle. A gunsmithing trade is a mysterious and precise craft that the very least and simple shooters like myself are usually in awe at your abilites and achievments.
sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by say what
Escuse me but I never claimed to have invented anything, quite the contrary. I already knew this is being done on other rifles, just NOT the 110 BA model. I just wanted it on MY rifle.
[i]... and YES, if you already read the entire post, this is EXACTLY what I'm saying. Use the same receiver and switch barrels. Do you know what a 110 BA looks like? You should take a look.[i]
forget the lapua and build a 338 ultra mag similar ballistics i got one and love it. brass is easier to come by.my 338 ultramag and my gunsmiths 338lapua shoot the 300smks pretty darn close.i have shot at 1400 yds it makes the steel gong every shot gotta love it i got half of what my smith has in his lapua.sinman use to have 338 barells.