We've already heard "it's a LADY, not a "Go-rilla" ! ... and we've also heard, it's probably "thread locker", not torque ! ? :(
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We've already heard "it's a LADY, not a "Go-rilla" ! ... and we've also heard, it's probably "thread locker", not torque ! ? :(
Stripped all the teeth off your nut wrench? I hope that's a joke?:( ... If not, you should have shifted to one of the alternant methods mentioned above before that happened. When we put a 3' or 4' pipe on the breaker bar and the nut doesn't come loose, we are applying " 200 or more #'s of torque! "I don't believe anyone @ Savage is torqueing the nut that tight"? As mentioned above, the "blueing" process, or thread locker("Lockite") is more likely the culprit. Sometimes, the face of the nut is "rough". I always "stone" mine before assembly. A rough nut face could contribute to the binding? Yes, a good heat gun can produce enough heat to do the job. Even when "Red Loc-tite" (permanent) is used, heat will bring it loose. Bill Pa has a really good set up!:) But the worst teardown I had would not have come loose with his set up without putting a 4' pipe on the action wrench handle, or hitting the handle with a hammer! "It took the heat to get that one loose"! There's a link out there showing Lane Pierce of "Shooting Times" doing a teardown, and he had the "entire kit" @ his disposal, including the action wrench. But he didn't even use it! He just used the "wood blocks" on the barrel ! "That" was an "easy" one! Not the problem teardowns we are talking about on this thread! I think Savage worked with him on that project to make it work like it's "supposed to" ! I'm sure from week to week Savage is worrying about getting sued, so they tell the Lady to "hit the nut wrench" with a 4# hammer, or "Red Loc-tite" is used in the threads to keep trash out, or whatever, etc., etc. But one thing is for sure ! We have enough information on this site to "get that sucker loose" ! ! :) :) :) Good Luck .... Jim
I have been fortunate to not encounter one yet. I did have to get my 1/2 torque wrench and put it in my barrel nut wrench to break a nut free though. But then again I am 6'4 300# so it put up a small amount of resistance.
Nope. Not a joke. I didn't try another method because I had never had one I couldn't break free out of probably 50 or more. In the past, I always used a barrel vise just to hold it in place, attached an action wrench, nut wrench and gave the nut wrench a couple good whacks with a dead blow. This last one, about 5 hard smacks and stripped my wrench. Since I had an extra nut, I used a big pipe wrench to break it loose.
Don't use a dead blow hammer, use a big ball peen or brass hammer. The utter shock is what breaks the nut loose. I have busted 1000's of nuts loose and never used an action wrench or heat. I still use the very first barrel nut wrench that I made, and it still works. Now if you've seen it, it's beat up on the edges from hammer blows, but all of the teeth are still there.
I dont like the idea of using a action wrench.... I built a barrel vise and use the nut wrench. When I use a brown paper bag wrapped around the barrel between it and the aluminum shims it wont even mark it. If it does its just aluminum marks on steel. I made a lead hammer and a couple whacks and its loose! I have lots of friends come over to use my vise. even works good on glued in rem barrels. I need to post a photo... Matt