Yobuck. Yeah it's super nice here right now. Hot, but nice. We are doing a two day whirl wind visit. We ate at charlies last night and I must say it was the best steak of my life. A little off topic.
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Yobuck. Yeah it's super nice here right now. Hot, but nice. We are doing a two day whirl wind visit. We ate at charlies last night and I must say it was the best steak of my life. A little off topic.
Is that water temp?
This.
If you don't like your sss comp trigger send it to me! I'll pay what you paid for it.
It is hands down the most superior trigger assembly for the money.
I believe I run less than 50% of the trigger catching the sear, and then adjust trigger pull to about a pound. In three different rifles and probably 3,000 rounds I've had zero issues with any of the triggers.
And if your smith used loctite, time for another smith, again.
As for the action work, your results of 'feel' seem similar to others. A lot of what he does has to do with timing, and tightening up the efficiency of the cycling of the bolt.
The next bit of this will be in fits and spurts as I am at work and will post small parts at a time.
I had time to get to the range. I will say this first. I had two rifles done. 1. savage 110 ba 338 LM and 2. 10 ba 6.5CM
The 338 seemed to do well. Action was smooth. It picked up rounds nicely and ejected just fine. The rounds I had previously loaded from my ocw work up seemed to still group well after I got the scope reset.
Now for the problem child
The 6.5 didnt fare as well. It struggled to strip off rounds out of the mag. Now I know someone said that feeding was a mag issue, but this rifle came with a mag and it ONLY liked that one mag. It was an aics style "accurate mag". The mag had a fairly deep scratch so I knew which one it was. Well something sure has changed because it isnt feeding well. Its grabbing the round but getting in a bind half way to closed. I will try a different mag and see if the problem persists.
Now for accuracy. The load I had previously worked up is NO GOOD anymore for some reason. Before the work, it was 1/2 moa. Now its like 1 1/2 moa. It was bad enough that I didnt want to waste the last 10 rounds and decided I would take them back home and just pull the bullets and start over. I would sell it if I thought I could get any where near what I had into it but that aint ever going to happen.
Pull that trigger and sell it to me before you sell the rifle!
lol, I already sold the accu trigger that went on it so dont think so. I do need to adjust both of them down. The pull weight is too heavy for my liking. And now I have to deal with loctited action screws. Great.
I bought it for well Im not even going to say.
Doc, Take a small drift punch that fits into the socket of the screw and rap it with a hammer a few times. That may help you get the screws out. Dont hit on the face of the head as that will mushroom the socket inward causing even more trouble. Id that does not get it us a low speed drill to drill into the center of the head with a quality 17/64 drill bit. when the heads fall of pull the stock and use some locking pliers to remove the screws from the action. Heat may be required on the screw only.
yeah body werks sorry that aint happening. I put way too much money into this **** rifle to back up. Im bound to dump more. Its turning into a nightmare. I dont know what has changed so much that it went from super accurate to crap. The first thing I will have to do is a new load work up but that is low priority right now. Ive got to get the 338 torn apart so I can get the trigger turned down so I can that back up and running.
Another smith/friend of mine advised me to use a soldering iron on the screw. He said he has run into this and uses the iron and holds it on there for quite some time and then uses a mini impact wrench to take them out. I dont have that kind of wrench.
I tell ya what bodywerks. Ill sell ya the trigger for 3k and ill throw in a limited edition rifle.
Yes, heat is the key, even with Red Loctite, and a small tip soldering tool will work fine on action bolts or scope screws. The impact wrench is not necessary.
Enough heat and "patience" is the key ;-))
Take the time to adjust the trigger on the CM. Sometimes a change in trigger weight will throw a person off. Had that happen with my son, new rifle (Browning Gold Medallion in 300 WM) had a heavy trigger and he shot patterns instead of groups. Got a good trigger job, nice a crisp break at 1 1/2 lbs and the difference was amazing. After the trigger job he could shoot 3 touching at 100 yds.
As was said earlier, apply heat to the action screws then use a screwdriver that really fits the heads well (are they torx by chance, that would be good). Just don't get in a hurry and try to force them too soon. I would consider running a tap through the receiver threads to clean off as much locktite as possible.
Accuracy could have also been affected by how the smith tightened the action screws. It is good that he torqued them, but the order they are tightened can have an effect too. You really don't need a smith to do this for you. A torque wrench is good but not necessary if you have a feel for how tight they should be. You could get the Wheeler FAT Wrench. When you tighten the action screws, watch/feel how the action is affected as you tighten the screws. If the bedding is mated to the action, they will come to a hard stop with no mushiness as you tighten.
FWIW,
Dennis
You guy's are killing me with the Loctite issue!
Take a hair dryer or heat gun,and heat the bolt head up for a few seconds. It will break the bond of the Loctite,and the action screws will come right out. Then take some Acetone,and clean off the threads of the screws,and put them back in after you adjust the trigger.
Some of you guy's must not be very mechanically inclined,Loctite isn't that hard to break loose!
The load I had worked up for my 338 LM still worked fine when it got back and they went through the same process. The triggers could both be a little lighter and I will get them that way pretty soon. For what ever reason the creedmoor was all over the place. Funny thing is the LM had to be bedded around the new recoil lug because the old one was bent and a newer thicker one was installed. They are both in the heavy clunky savage BA stocks. I dont even know what the bedding looks like in them and have never personally taken them apart that I can recall. I havent gotten to them yet. Ive been chasing down loads and scope issues on my wife's custom creedmoor first. We are planning on shooting a match next month and have been having drop table issues/data/scope tracking.......etc.etc. I currently have 3 calibers sitting on my reloading bench in various stages of reloading trying to get ready for this weekend which looks like rain. So maybe Saturday will be tear the savage creedmoor down day!! I did find my soldering iron so one step closer. Ive made my mind up however to just re run the load work up. The old one was a little on the hot side any how and they were so bad when I was last shooting them that I didnt even shoot the last 10. I brought them home and pulled the bullets.
yeah Hillbilly you're right. Im not a mechanic. I fix people.
But I have almost had an action bolt nearly strip the head and thats frying pan into the fire.
appreciate your input.
Hey TX hillbilly, this is an average 5 min of work.
https://youtu.be/gjRzuLy5POU
I DO plan on giving that a go however. The wife swears the trigger pull feels almost as light as the jewels. If that was the only issue I wouldn't even sweat it. But what some have said about differing torques causing the load to no longer work is what is driving me. I've dropped everything since my girl broke her arm, but things are settling down to a new kind of normal.
http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...torque-tuning/
That is a super article about the very thing.
I just woke up from a very long night so it may be someone else's suggestion!
I know people thought it was funny when I used the hair dryer on the barrel nut before I tried it. I will do it again.
Heat definitely works with locktite. Frankly it is good if you do both tap and heat.
If I even suspect locktite I use heat. One of those better safe than sorry items.
Of course the right fitting drive to the fastener is as important.