Making The Most Of Low End Optics

Hi this is a little lesson on how to make the most of low end optics, this is what works for me, I have 5 short action stevens and all have Simmons white tail classics on them 99.00 each, and 5 long actions and those have vortex crossfires also 99.00 each, like I said low end but I make them work this is my method.
The base line should be your favorite load in that caliber, the secret is to get the scopes adjustments in the middle of there number of rotations, if windage or elevation is 6 turns from highest to lowest or right to left you want the knobs to be at or near three turns for both and be on target, the reason for this is so the springs that hold the reticules will be in there most relaxed position, this is what you want due to the fact that they won't sag or lose tention and they end result will be that they will hold ZERO since the springs have nowhere to go, this is how you get there, mount your scope and with your best load zero in on target, then right then and there don't wait to get home put the bore sight er in, I use the bsa one it's 20.00 - 30.00 bucks the one that has a graph in it then with some graph paper I write and copy down what I see in the bore sight er, then I turn the adjustment knobs to the middle or most relaxed position, look in the bore sight er again you will be way off that's normal, to fix this you need the scope rings with hex screws on both sides these are also 20.00 - 30.00 that's how you adjust your windage, and as far as elevation goes I use shims under the scope bases they are available from midway and brownell's and that puts me spot on every time, check the sight er often as you make changes until you get back to your spot that you made on the graph paper, even if you only do the windage your scope will be that much better, the Burris rings do both win and elev if you want to spend the money, and if you try differant loads you can go back and forth and return to the right setting or if you leave it in the safe for awhile when you take it back out if your not spot on you will be darn close. That's my story and I'm stick in to it, hope this helps.
Thanks Dean

Dean....EXCELLENT...never thought about that aspect of utilizing "lower" end optics.....I like most of us own Leupold, Zeiss,(conquest) Burris, Mueller, Simmons, and even 1 BSA ......All of them work, some to a much higher degree than the others....BUT, i don't have $5000.00 to $10,000.00 to tie up in just scopes. I have 3 builds going on at the same time, and bbl's, machining, T&T and stocks alone run up to $1000.00. I do believe that it is wise to spend as much, if not more on the optics as on the rifle......But even a Nightforce or March scope will only show me how badly i missed if my weapon won't shoot....therefore, it is always a balancing act on $$$ for rifle and optics....your letter will help myself and many other's that have to budget the $$$ get a useable rifle/scope combo...Thanks ...rsbhunter

A simple set of Burris Signature rings with an off-set kit can do exactly the same thing. Regardless of the quality of the optics, every scope can benefit from having the shooting zero as close as possible to the mechanical zero unless you have a specific reason to do otherwise (such as maximizing usable elevation adjustment). The optical qualities of every scope are the best at the center. The difference between center and edge optics might be less extreme on a high quality scope, but the difference is still there.

A point of caution using bases with adjustable windage: unless the rings have some method to allow the scope to pivot, making windage adjustments with the base is a recipe for placing a lot of undue strain on the scope tube, the mechanism and the internal lenses. Many a very good scope have been destroyed over the years by that type of base. The Signature rings are available in that style and prevent all the problems that the ring/base type causes. If you want windae adjustable bases, they are the only way to go IMO, but the off-set bushing capability of the Signature rings makes the adjustable base almost redundant.

Great stuff, all true. The advantage of the Leupold or Redfield type turn-in base is that the front will pivot a bit to relieve any stress caused by centering the rear. I always install a new scope by setting the rifle up at one end of the house absolutely straight up and down - easier said than done. I've got a tiny level intended for turntables, once used with antique technology called records, and there is usually some spot on the rifle or base that is flat enough to get a true level. Next, hang a plumb bob from the farthest wall, possibly with a piece of paper behind it for added visibility. Once the plumb bob is centered in the bore, get the vertical cross hair on it and you are done, unless you have to make any up or down adjustments. At the range I will try to use the rear base screws for fine tuning, and fire a few shots, to make sure everything is snuggled in. I've been lucky so far, with holes tapped so true that I hardly have to touch the dials.

Hi you would be amazed at how many setups I have seen with the windage cranked all the way to one end, due to the scope base holes offset of just bad quality control, then hear how they have to waste a half dozen rounds every time they take their rig to the range to get back to zero because the poi has drifted.
Dean

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Originally Posted by scope eye

......the secret is to get the scopes adjustments in the middle of there number of rotations, if windage or elevation is 6 turns from highest to lowest or right to left you want the knobs to be at or near three turns for both and be on target, the reason for this is so the springs that hold the reticules will be in there most relaxed position, this is what you want due to the fact that they won't sag or lose tention and they end result will be that they will hold ZERO since the springs have nowhere to go.....

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You're on the right track, but this isn't correct. The turrets are reacting against spring pressure. The most relaxed position for the springs are with the elevation and windage turned all the way out. The most compressed position for the springs is with the turrets turned all the way in.

The reason you want the scope adjustments centered is because of the geometry or how the turrets contact the inverter tube. Turrets will only contact the inverter tube at a 90-degree angle when the inverter tube is centered inside the scope tube.

Here's a picture kinda showing what I am talking about.

[img width=600 height=421]http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/opticsplanet/micro-t.gif[/img]

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Originally Posted by us920669

Great stuff, all true. The advantage of the Leupold or Redfield type turn-in base is that the front will pivot a bit to relieve any stress caused by centering the rear.

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That would be great if the front ring pivoted easily and the rear ring tracked on an arc so it was also aligned. Alas, neither is the case and the scope ends up bound if much windage is put in at all.

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I always install a new scope by setting the rifle up at one end of the house absolutely straight up and down - easier said than done. I've got a tiny level intended for turntables, once used with antique technology called records, and there is usually some spot on the rifle or base that is flat enough to get a true level. Next, hang a plumb bob from the farthest wall, possibly with a piece of paper behind it for added visibility. Once the plumb bob is centered in the bore, get the vertical cross hair on it and you are done, unless you have to make any up or down adjustments. At the range I will try to use the rear base screws for fine tuning, and fire a few shots, to make sure everything is snuggled in. I've been lucky so far, with holes tapped so true that I hardly have to touch the dials.

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I also do a simple visual boresight to get on paper. Works pretty well. Only difference is that I do it at the range with the rifle in a rest or on a bipod. With decent bases and rings carefully installed, it's usually really close.

That would be great if the front ring pivoted easily and the rear ring tracked on an arc so it was also aligned. Alas, neither is the case and the scope ends up bound if much windage is put in at all.


Wow, your'e absolutely right. The old dog has learned a new trick. That must be why they sell those pointed alignment tools. I still like to start with a perfectly level rifle. Of course, in the field most people hold their rifle crooked. That must be why they sell those clamp on levels. Of course, the level must be put on perfectly level. Problems problems.
First paragraph was supposed to be quote from Helotaxi but I didn't make it look right.

The Burris zee rings use a plastic insert that rotates in a cam groove (not sure of the correct terminology) which allows slight offset of the bases without any binding on the scope. Simply assemble the scope to the rings loosely, mount and torque down the rings to the bases, adjust the scope position and then torque the ring caps down. If you need to adjust the windage on the bases, simply loosen the ring caps to unload the pressure on the ring inserts but keeping the scope held in place, adjust the windage in the base, then retorque the caps before you fire your confermation shots.