Muzzle Break stuck on 111 LRH - After market Stock Options

The muzzle break on my 111 lrh in 6.5 X 284 for some strange reason has decided not to turn on and off it is stuck on. I have soaked it with solvent and break free to no avail. The gun is clean and taken care of. Anyone else have the same problem? Savage said send it back. There must be a way other than that. I have to send the stock back because the clear coat is peeling I am not all that happy with the stock looks works fine as far as accuracy any suggestions on an after market stock for it?



Thanks,
Sportjon

Just out of curiousity, how may rounds have you fired out of this rifle?

I've been considering the purchase of one of these LRH's and this is just one of several problems that I've heard of since researching them.

If the solvent-soaking hasn't loosened it up I'm wondering if the bore of the muzzle brake might be off-center just enough to shave some of the jacket of one or more of the bullets that have blown through it. If it is small particles of bullet jacket that's causing the muzzle brake to seize up, that might be why the the solvent hasn't worked yet.

If you take a magnifying glass and look closely at the inside of the muzzle brake, can you see any evidence of this happening?

I'm sorry I'm not much help with this problem. In an odd sort of way, you've been more of a help to me. I think I'll pass on the LRH for now and go with my other choice.

HollowPoint

I had the exact problem with my muzzle break getting stuck. I soaked it in every solvent a have and in break free for a week still could'nt get it open. I decided to rebarrel the rifle so I took chanel locks to the break just to see if I could break it free, ended up ruining the break but never got it to open. My stock did the same thing with the clear coat.

Those brakes are very finicky. You need to soak them in something that breaks up carbon. Once you get it broke free you close it and hose it down with carb cleaner to get it all clean and free of oil.

Never shoot them with oil in them. As soon as you do shoot them you need to clean them to keep the carbon from building up again.

The muzzle break worked fine while i was breaking in the barrel and cleaning it every few rounds up to about 50 shots. I then had a load worked up for hunting verified zero with about 6 shots shot a couple of rounds hunting went to the range a couple of months later and the break would not work it was stuck open shot 10 or 15 rounds at the range cleaned the gun and tried to loosen the break to no avail. I had been cleaning it with an oil free solvent because I was aware of the carbon build up but I guess I was not careful enough. The gun will drive tacks and with the long action i can seat bullets just off the lands and still use the magazine. I would give the gun 5 stars except for the stock and the muzzle break. I will see if I can find some carbon cleaner and break it free that way. If that won't work I will take it to my gun smith have it removed and put a good one back on assuming that it is threaded and able to be removed.

Thanks for the input

Try soaking it in a 50/50 mixture of auto transmission fluid and acetone.

Tried the tranny fluid and acetone so far it is not working soaked for about 8 hours and took it out wasn't sure how long it would be OK to leave. Any other suggestions?


Thanks

i would try some Kroil
fantastic stuff
drybean

I wonder if carbon killer would work? I have tried this stuff on my AR bolts and it just about eats the bolt crud right off. Have you tried to remove it yet? I have the 16FHSAK and am now wondering about the brake issues as well. Keep us posted.

I have used mercury outboards power tune and it really dissolves carbon but you need to let it stand for 4-6 hrs minimum.Keep spraying alittle more on.Once you break it free I would use a dry lubricant like powdered graphite in the threads or even moly powder.It really is a stupid set up that on-off brake.Cant the factory tell a owner how to break it free? I wouldnt be afraid to warm it up with a propane torch to see if it will let go.I wouldnt heat it red hot or anything but hot enough so you wouldnt want to touch the thing with your hands.Use a rag so the pliers wont destroy your brake.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jonbearman

......Cant the factory tell a owner how to break it free? .....

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They did. Also, with instructions on how to prevent it.

http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...pic,509.0.html

Thanks for the info. I am hoping I can get it going without taking it apart. I will let you know how it goes.


Thanks again

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sportjon284

Thanks for the info. I am hoping I can get it going without taking it apart. I will let you know how it goes.


Thanks again

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Good luck. Those things can be a bugger.

One thing I did try. I have a long skinny phillips screw driver that I put in one of the holes and started working the outer sleeve just a bit. Once it started to move I kept on it with penetrating oil and carb cleaner until it was finally free.

I have bought some of the GM top engine cleaner off of e bay...supposed to work great...just make sure you get the stuff in the can Part#1050002....rsbhunter