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I don't have a Savage to compare this to, but I do have a Tikka and had a R700. When I draw the bolt back to the rear most position I noticed I have a bunch of slop between the bolt and the action (I can wiggle the bolt fom side to side quite a bit). But the Tikka and R700 bolt/action seem to be pretty well fit. Has anyone else noticed this "slop"? I've noticed when I work the bolt hard that sometimes I'll get binding if I get the bolt out of alignment b/c of the "wiggle".
One of the differences in a $300 gun versus a $600 gun. I have noticed this but after you get used to it you will never think about it again.
I get the same thing in my model 11 .243, this is a $350 package rifle. While sitting at the bench working the bolt i have found that i'm trying to push the bolt forward and kinda sideways at the same time, which is binding it. If i simply push the bolt forward from the rear with my thumb it goes straight in very smoothly.
I haven't noticed this problem when out hunting with it. blue
If that's the case, I have a $300 gun that Montana Rifle Company charged me $1095 for a barreled action. Same binding when pullingQuote:
Originally Posted by kslefty
the bolt back on this cheap Winchester copy, MRC's Model 1999. >:( >:(j
Sorry, but never got used to it and think about it every time I reload!
If I had $1100 in any of my guns I guess I would be a lot more stressed. I just expected you get what you pay for like in most other things in life. The savage/ stevens line is plenty good enough for me but I knew going in they were mass produced.
My model 7 Rem. in 7-08 has way more play then my Stevens 200 243!!
Dave
I have noticed a little bit of slop on my Stevens 200 when the bolt is rearward too. But, to be honest, it's no more than the Tikka or R700 that I have handled before while I was shopping around. If you think about it, the only thing that's keeping it stable is the front bolt lugs- which are maybe 1/2" long. Have you thought about putting a coat of paint or two on it?
Don't worry about rearward Bolt slop. Look at a Mauser. Small or Lg. ring. Tons of movement. Bone reliable and precision actions. My last 8mm Mauser was an Oberndorf, G-33/40 Mauser that I re-barreled in .06. Built in 1942 at the height and soon after decline of German war time precision manufacturing and fitted by hand. The rifle was designed for the alpenkorps to have a lighter small ring action. My pre-64 Winchester has the same, so called slop at the rearward extension of the bolt. This in no way detracts and in fact enhances the reliability of the over all action. When pushed home, tight lock up of the bolt should of course,occur.