New 10FCPXP .308

I am new to the forum and Savage rifles. I did a lot of reading before my purchase. Decided on the 10FCPXP that Dick's Sporting Goods had on a sale recently in .308 caliber. It is matt black with a 22" fluted barrel and the accutrigger. It came with a Tasco 3X9X40 MilDot scope mounted on individual scope mounts. Is it worth taking them off and using a one piece Picatinny rail type mount? I'm looking at the Eabco mount http://www.eabco.com/WarneTactical.htm. Thinking about getting a Hawke 30 SR scope. Anyone have any experience with it?

Thanks for helping a newbie.
Bob

Welcome to the forum.

I tend to like the one piece rails. Look at Badger, Nightforce, Farrell, Benchsource to see the wide variety of prices. As to whether it's worth it? Only you can decide that. Some tend to be taller and raise the scope to the point where new rings are needed or a cheek piece on the stock to raise your eye.

Are you Arizona?

Yes I'm in Arizona. Grew up here then moved to Missouri for 10 years after retiring and now back. Love the winter here. :)

Must be someplace warm :)

It's freezing up here in Prescott

While the scope and mounts definitely have to go eventually, I would highly suggest ditching the cheesy Tupperware stock first. It will hurt accuracy more than the scope or base will. Also, look at an egw 20moa base.

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Originally Posted by bodywerks

While the scope and mounts definitely have to go eventually, I would highly suggest ditching the cheesy Tupperware stock first. It will hurt accuracy more than the scope or base will. Also, look at an egw 20moa base.

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Why the stock first? Seems to be good with a wide forestock and free floating.

Bob

I do not liek 2 piece bases. Had too many problems over the years.

No reason to use a 20 moa base unless you will be shooting to 1000 yards.
I prefer a LR or mildot or better yet milhash II scope reticle myself.

An EGW is a decent picatinny base. Farrel, TPS, burris is probably better.
i prefer Burris extreme rings.

No experience with that scope, but I have looked at them and they do look nice.

Try out some 208 gr amax bullets over about 48.5 gr of RL17, 2.9 COL.
Work up of course.

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Originally Posted by aztrooper

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Originally Posted by bodywerks

While the scope and mounts definitely have to go eventually, I would highly suggest ditching the cheesy Tupperware stock first. It will hurt accuracy more than the scope or base will. Also, look at an egw 20moa base.

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Why the stock first? Seems to be good with a wide forestock and free floating.

Bob

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Because the entire stock is made of soft plastic, including where the action bolts to. I had the exact same rifle and can attest that if you want MOA accuracy you'll be hard pressed to achieve it with that stock.

The stock you have is about as good as balsa wood.It is soft and flimsy and that is why you got such a good price.My son in law got one and already ordered an hs precision stock.It is a shame they cant upgrade their moulds to add more strength,but that is the way to sell at reasonable prices.

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Originally Posted by tammons

No reason to use a 20 moa base unless you will be shooting to 1000 yards.

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Wouldn't this depend on the scope used?

I have a Nightforce on My FN-AR that barely gets to 650 on a flat base, the scope has a HUGE amount of elevation compared to most mid priced scopes.

I tend to use 20's on everything, except the 110BA it has a 40.

Many scopes have trouble getting a 100yd zero with a 20MOA base. Unless the plan is for very long range shooting, a 0MOA base is much less hassle.

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Originally Posted by helotaxi

Many scopes have trouble getting a 100yd zero with a 20MOA base. Unless the plan is for very long range shooting, a 0MOA base is much less hassle.

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Dude has a .308 and lives in Arizona, where you can shoot 6-700 yards almost anywhere.

I guess you're right though, he didn't say what he wanted to do and the 22" barrel, while making the rifle more maneuverable, does limit range to some extent, depending on projectile choice.

I'm right next to him in New Mexico, but .308 isn't my choice for long range stuff. Unless I was running restricted F-class I wouldn't bother trying to go really long with a .308. Too much of a hassle and too many other common calibers out there that work much better. A .243 can throw a bullet with a better BC faster than a .308 and do it with right next to no recoil.

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Originally Posted by helotaxi

I'm right next to him in New Mexico, but .308 isn't my choice for long range stuff. Unless I was running restricted F-class I wouldn't bother trying to go really long with a .308. Too much of a hassle and too many other common calibers out there that work much better. A .243 can throw a bullet with a better BC faster than a .308 and do it with right next to no recoil.

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The price tag to jump to F-open is not to be taken lightly, with all of their 7mm, really expensive rest, nonsense. I use a .243 for F-open and a .223 for F-T/R (this is fun)

Occasionally, I use the .308 for long range steel and certain tactical matches. I think it's mainly because a guy needs to have a .308 and know how to use it in preparation for the great zombie uprising of 2012 and just to say "I have a .308" and get an understanding nod from the uninitiated. If you go around telling people you use a .223 for 1000 yard matches, you're liable to get locked up. There is a certain pleasure in constantly hearing "Holy Cow, you're shooting a .223" at the matches though.

Had the 10FP in .223 and really liked it but after moving back to Arizona, I wanted something that I might take Elk hunting also. I know it is heavy but I know where to hunt that I don't have to drag it to far. I'm not a serious distance match shooter, just want the capability to do it. Have a place near that I can get out to 1000 yards +.

Bob