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I am looking for advice on adding an adjustable cheek piece "AtlasWorks" on my 12BVSS stock.
I am an experienced woodcrafter just looking for some input from those who have done it themselves.
BTW: if you sent it off that would be good input as well. Because we all know sometimes cost is better than your first attempt and the risk of failure.
Thank you and God Bless
Larry
Haven’t done that, but I machined parts & made my own shoulder stock with cheek riser. Im sure the Atlas part can be done with a bit of know how.
Not an Atlas works. I just cut a piece out of the stock. And, yes, this is a BVSS stock :)
https://i.ibb.co/R3pwRYM/20230630-162456.jpg
Crude but it works well. I drilled the two 'post' holes first. Then cut the piece out. Epoxied the posts in the detachable part and covered it with a thin piece of leather. Two brass screw inserts were installed and I use setscrews for holding cheekpiece in place. You could also use knobs, I just don't like how they look.
Charlie that is exactly what I was looking for. I like the idea of the leather! I also like the idea of two post which are independently adjustable!Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie b
2 questions:
1) May I copy your photos and print them after I emlarge so I have a reference?
2) Can I ask for a tad but more work? Can you give me a measurements please From the butt plate to the first cut, then the overall length of the cut. Aldo depth would be useful as well.
Thanks again
Larry
Hi Dave, before I begin thanks for all your support!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
I feel the 12BVSS has such a large chunk of wood that can easily be made more shooter specific. Would be a shame not to use such a very stable epoxy bound wood laminate in such cases. Because of the wood/epoxy laminate a person may want shorten it a tad and add adjustable butt plate as well.
In the 70's there were very few aluminum chassis for LR shooting. Almost every bull barrel was seated in wood. My plan is bringing those days back with the 12BVSS. To many chassis of plastic and aluminum chassis these days, its time to show these youngins the beauty of wood! HAHAHA!!! Ahhh its good to dream again and have a goal! HAHAHa!!!
God Bless all
Larry
BTW fellow Savage Shooters. I used this webpage to for ideas of the types of Stock Positioning Systems Availale.
https://stockpositioning.com/product...-comb-adjuster
I mentioned Atlasworxs (misspelled above) as an option. But Stockpositoning website helped me decide on the type that are available.
Well, I’m no young’n, but I’m not all that old either. At 46 I’m in middle, but have fairly extensive firearms experience. I’m a fan of Aluminum chassis as they eliminate creep and are for the most part, impervious to the elements & age. The vast majority of top shooters & firearms records are held by that of synthetic/metallic stocks/chassis. Not to mention the small arms in use by that of a superior armed forces. I prefer the aesthetics and feel of a modern Aluminum Chassis as well as the potential of performance advantage. However, I respect other’s fondness of wood grain, natural materials. My very close friend is among this group. His choice is hard wood, even in knowing and freely admitting it’s deficiencies. To each his own.
Dave and others! Well I could not wait anymore and I am tired of Squinting at TV. So for 4 hours in the gunroom sitting in my chair I taped the entire stock. I managed to find the vertical center of the comb front to back using a scope reticle level and carpenters level. I also created a 2 3/4" datum line. From there is was measuring / dividing. Its hard for me to navigate stairs so instead of going up them and back down to obtain my good compass in the Garage. I used my coffee cup cap for the Front of the Cheek Riser soft incline.
Heres the completed layout ready for the Bandsaw! Attachment 10446.
Sorry this one is inverted still learning how to add photos! It shows how I used my scope reticle level to find the Center Line of the Comb. Attachment 10448
Nice. Excellent attention to detail.
Yep, setup and jigs is key.
I just eyeballed the right dimensions. The one I screwed up with was the forward cut. It was too far forward so I have to remove or lower the riser to get the bolt out. Not a huge deal, just inconvenient.
I have to do the same on mine Charlie. Because even though I’m 6’4”, I use a pretty short LOP. Years & years of shooting AR15’s it’s just natural for me to stay close. I wouldn’t call yours crude. Looks well done, IMO.
It is crude. :) I was just good at hiding all the 'problems'. That leather covering served to do a lot more than feel nice, it hides the filler I had to use fix the wandering saw blade :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie b
Charlie don't cut yourself short. You indeed inspired me to take it on the task and I will. I am an old farm kid and on the farm our fixes were if "it works its a fine effort!!" You said yourself it works just fine and that is just fine with me and a bunch of other guys. Life is nothing but a learning curve full of trial and error. Nothing is more true then the shooting sports!
Thanks again Charlie !
Larry
Larry, you're welcome and good luck on yours.
I am paying attention too since I will probably be doing another one in the next few months.
All,
I plan on with the help of you all post photos and explanations as I take this 20 year old Factory 22-250 BVSS to what hopes to be a 6mm BR with the intent of 2″ groups at 200. Then I'll refine from there. But first the launch pad has to be repeatable for the shooter. That starts with what I am posting. Without a good cheek weld and shoulder fit the shooter will fail. So I start with the stock. Its a chunk of wood almost laminated like plywood, but its a stable chunk. A stable chunk that needs to be molded to the shooter.
OK now how do I post photos and narrate how I got to the wear it is now. I believe what I did will work for anyone in laying out the cut on the stock for the riser.
As for tools to layout the stock for the cut I used :
A role of blue painters tape to create a artist canvas.
A medium vice.
A carpenter's level, and cheap hardware store $3 small 6 inch level will work. (I used the level from my small level from Wheeler Turret KIT as it has a magnet but not required) .
A calculator. Google has one in there search bar that comes in handy for decimal to fraction conversions if required. Example >>>type in the search bar "1.76 / 2 and the results will be there."
A good Small tip NON PERMANENT Sharpie. Do not use a permanent one until your final layout is done. Why, if you change you mind on a line or mark youn can wet your finger and wipe off previos marks.
Razor blade for cutting tape. >>>>Hint" lay out your tape, Hold your thumb on the cut , then peel it off and cut on another surface the apply. Adding annotations to the tape while before final application is easier as well
You may have to by one but find a non digital non gauge Vernier Caliper with 4-8 inch baldes. I thought I saw one at Menards
Your reloading Digital or Gauged CALIPER This is used to measure between the jaws of you vernier calipers. Much much easier than using a ruler. Also when you go to 1/2 the size of the stock comb width, you can use it to mark the 1/2 size on with the non permanent marker on the Vernier Caliper with 4-8 inch blades. I say this as even as close sighted as I am right now those little dashes are hard to see but a black mark put there from a measurement on the fixed blade isn't.
Thats it...now help me start a page where I can post photos with narratives to get you started drawing on your blue canvas stock!
Keep you stick on the ice as Red Green would say!
Larry
I thought Life was a Box of Chocolate ls? It’s actually a learning curve?? HAHAHA! J/K
I get what you mean Charlie. Well done regardless. At least in photo. And apparently it must work well enough…otherwise I don’t you’d be using it.
Was the same for my buttstock. Just some scrap Aluminum, a bit of G10 as spacers & molded Kydex for the Cheek riser. Crude also, in much of the machining. Certainly not having the absolute consistency of CNC machined parts. But I was proud of it. And it worked well for me.
https://i.ibb.co/YjX4QQY/B5-BC8903-0...-CFCB80-E3.jpg
You don't have to have a machine shop to do good work, just skills and patience. You have both and it shows. Heck, I cut my stock with hand saws. Japanese dovetail and coping saws. I was kinda shocked it came out well at all. But it works really well.
Larry, I did use a sharpie. When used on a good hard finish it can be easily removed with alcohol. I would not use it if the stock was an oil finish.
Thanks man. Appreciate it.
Certainly no shop is needed. Shoot, I started doing custom work, building firearms in our luxury apartment in the Catalina foothills of Tucson Arizona! LOL! Now in Pennsylvania where I grew up, I do have a nice little basement room now, that is equipped with some decent tooling & machinery. But nowhere near a machine shop. Decent Home Shop anyway, although too small for a proper lathe. One day hopefully so I can start turning my own barrels. And I’m drooling over being able to get a Tormach CNC. :hail: But it’s that’s quite a bit of money, so….