Firing Pin from "Old Style" bolt & "New Style" bolt body

I just bought a brand new 110 Precision in 6.5 Creedmoor and am having nothing but bolt problems, including failures to extract and problems chambering.

Both those problems are being addressed but overall I'm really miffed that my $1600 expense came with a bolt assembly that looks and functions like :censored: especially compared to the one in my 110 Hunter in 30-06 which is smooth as silk, super shiny and half the price. :mad:

The folks at Gun Shack have a $40 new-style stock replacement bolt sleeve that I would love to swap for the rough and ugly one that shipped with my "new" rifle.

Can anyone tell me if the old style old-style firing pin assembly will fit into the new style bolt body?

Your rifle should have a new style firing. Unless it’s <2019. But yes, it will fit using all the parts. Regardless, neither the firing pin assembly or the bolt sleeve are the cause of your issues. However, there is no harm in replacing the Bolt Sleeve for aesthetics. Though you’ll need to headspace. The reason your 6.5CM is having problems where you 30-06 is not, is because instead of the 30-06’s long, tapered case, the CM case has nil body taper.

You need to replace the Extractor bearing ball with a larger .140” ball. (I also use the modified Extractor). Also, file a little more bevel in your Ejector face clocked pointing to the Cartridge. Like the photo below.

https://i.ibb.co/CMyJxP0/DCA0-D4-EA-...BF3-F129-E.jpg

Thank you for replying David! I really appreciate your explanations and especially the tip about beveling the ejector face. I think I can handle that myself but I’m not 100% sure what you mean by …

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Though you’ll need to headspace.

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… but it sounds like I may need to go to a gunsmith. Is that the case, or do you mean I just need to break out my headspace comparator and take new measurements?

Different Bolts, Bolt Sleeves & Actions are not identical lengths. They can vary several thousandths. The Headspace is the space between the length of the Chamber & the cartridge. We use Headspace “Go” & “No Go” Gauges to set the headspace via threading the barrel further into or out of the Action & securing by torquing the Barrel nut. It’s one reason the Savage is different from many other rifles as barrel replacement is quite easy & can be done by any DIY’er. With rifles like the Remington 700, the barrel is shouldered. A good Lathe & tooling, in addition to a greater knowledge of gunsmithing is needed to replace the barrel. By replacing the Bolt Sleeve, the headspace may not be the same and would require setting it as I outlined above. There are many, many blogs, videos & such online demonstrating the exact procedure.

The Headspace Comparator is for brass resizing & reloading. Chamber Headspace Gauges are used for setting Chamber headspace. A Go & No Go Gauge. However, many of us use just a Go Gauge, a then a piece of tape on the back of it to act as a No Go Gauge. I myself use stainless steel shims instead of the tape. I have a Go Gauge & use a .0025” shim behind it to set for No Go. Below is a common set of Go & No Go Gauges.

https://i.ibb.co/RgB4ZJn/3170480-E-6...67-B0-F9-E.jpg

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

By replacing the Bolt Sleeve, the headspace may not be the same and would require setting it as I outlined above. There are many, many blogs, videos & such online demonstrating the exact procedure.

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Good advice- and always good to know how to check headspace..... but the bolt sleeve would not change headspace. Even with a bolt sleeve that is a few thousands longer or shorter the headspace would still be set by the bolt head and action lugs.

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Originally Posted by Whynot

Good advice- and always good to know how to check headspace..... but the bolt sleeve would not change headspace. Even with a bolt sleeve that is a few thousands longer or shorter the headspace would still be set by the bolt head and action lugs.

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Technically “yes”.. ​and there is controversy there; however, it should still be checked as aspects of the headspace with a longer or shorter bolt sleeve can be different. I check no matter what.

Read this. https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...t-body-cracked

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Technically “yes”.. ​and there is controversy there; however, it should still be checked as aspects of the headspace with a longer or shorter bolt sleeve can be different. I check no matter what.

Read this. https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...t-body-cracked

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I'm going to push back on this one: even after reading the thread....

So 2 options- you get a shorter bolt body- or a longer bolt body. If it is shorter- but still engages the lugs correctly then headspace will be the same as it was before. If it is to short then the bolt will not lock up-- and setting headspace can not change that because the lugs are part of the action.

If a longer bolt sleeve then it is going to push the bolt to far forward and have a gap between the bolt and lugs. In this case the last thing that you want to do is back the barrel out and set correct headspace.... because then the lugs are not doing their job and you have a dangerous situation by trying to be safe. If the bolt sleeve was to long that headspace needs to be adjusted then you are transferring the force to the cross pin and bolt sleeve..... In either case I can not think of any good that would come from adjusting headspace??

That’s fine.. Like I said, it’s a debated topic. Much like Action screw torque & harmonics, or firing pin strike energy & cartridge burn rate. There is dissension among these topics. That’s all I was pointing out by posting that thread. And it’s fine. People are still allowed to disagree on things in our country… at least for now, LOL! ;)

Whynot is correct.

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

Whynot is correct.

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It's not every day that gets said. :o

But while were on the topic- In the link that Dave posted it talks about how with an out of spec (longer) bolt body they can lock on the bolt handle before the lugs make contact. (which would be the only thing that I can think of that would crack a bolt sleeve- other than exploding cases).... But in those instances- would the bolt body be actually taking the force and holding the pressure until it breaks? Or would it be compressing each time until the lugs make contact and progressively weakening?

If a bolt body is too long, it simply won't close. If the bolt handle doesn't fall into the notch, you can't push it far enough ahead to get it to do so, maybe on an empty chamber but not with a round or headspace gauge in.
Like I said before.....a bolt sleeve that has cracked is because it was defective to start with. Essentially, bolt bodies have no bearing on headspace.

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

If a bolt body is too long, it simply won't close. If the bolt handle doesn't fall into the notch, you can't push it far enough ahead to get it to do so, maybe on an empty chamber but not with a round or headspace gauge in.
Like I said before.....a bolt sleeve that has cracked is because it was defective to start with. Essentially, bolt bodies have no bearing on headspace.

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Beat me to it. There is not much room between the end of the bolt head and the barrel. I have never seen a bolt body off spec enough for this to happen. Once cocked the bolt is being pushed to the rear.