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I have been looking for the appropriate laser bore sighter for the 6mm Remington cartridge with no luck.
I see where bore sighters are made to work in several different chamberings determined by rim size and chamber size, but I don't see one for the 6mm.
Do I use the .243 sighter? Or maybe the .270?
I intend to have several of these gadgets to get my scopes on paper before I go to the range and I'm having trouble finding this certain sighter. Anyone have experience with this? Thanks, Mike
Before spending money on this, try using a case for the gun with the primer removed.
Insert that in the gun with the bolt removed, with the smaller hole to look thru it makes it more precise to use.
One of those orange target dots stuck onto the aiming point makes it easier to see.
I have one stuck on the garage door which is about 100’ from the kitchen table where i set up the gun.
I do similar to yobuck but with just the bolt removed, always within a few inches of POA @ 100yds. Yobuck's method would be more precise. :thumb:
I believe the method is referred to as bore sighting? lol
Screw a laser bore sighter. Do as Yobuck says. He is spot on.Quote:
Originally Posted by yobuck
I drill the primer pocket out to like a #7 drill or similar. Put a dot on paper at 25 yards. Put the crosshairs 1.5" high. Move to 50 and see if your still close. Go shoot starting at 50. Finish at your zero. If you understand the Clicks on your scope you should be right on at 5 or less rounds. Sometimes 2 is enough.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2130726870?pid=871160
These work on any caliber based on my experience. Get's you on paper pretty quick.
My eyes will let me bore sight a.375 or .45, but I don't think I will be able to see through a 6mm.
I have been lucky enough to zero in 2 rounds once in my life. Most of the time it is more like 5 or 6. Even more with irons!
I suppose the lazer method works well, its just that i learned how to do things before the better things came along.
As for how many shots needed to zero, that could be another whole subject in itself.
Learning how to get a bullet from where it made impact, to where you want it to impact, regardless as to how far off it is really isnt very difficult.
But for the most part shooters today either arent aware, or they simply depend on things like charts and special devises in order to do it.
But fact is, all thats necessary is to know where the last shot made impact, regardless as to what ever distance you are shooting, or what ever you are shooting at. Be it a target, a rock, or an animal.
I would suggest doing a Google search of the (one shot zero) method, and practice using it.
Just be paying attention to which way you turn the scope knobs as you do because its easy to get confused.
But it can be lots of fun, especially at distance, and without using a rangefinder.
A 243 laser will work fine . There the same case but the 6 is longer. You can chamber a 243 loaded shell and close and fire it with out harm it runes the case. Can't chamber a 6mm in a 243.
That sounds like the voice of experience! LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by 8mm RUM
Long story.
A STW 7mm will fit in a 8mm rem mag too.
I never fired one though.
Well that would be because the parent case of the 7 mm STW is the 8 mm magnum case.Quote:
Originally Posted by 8mm RUM
It would work firing a 7x 300 Wetherby in a 300 Wetherby rifle.
Regardless, its a bad idea to do it.
But maybe belted cases can save somebodys butt on occaission.
Sorry I brought it up,but a 243 laser will fit in a 6mm rem
There are plenty of methods out there and some work better than others.
I have been using the Sitelite Laser bore sighters for a really long time.
I recently switched to the green High power model because its strong enough to see in daylight.
https://sitelite-lasers.com/product_SL500.html
I slip it inside the barrel( has rings to fit almost any bore size )
I use my neighbors chimney which is about 75 yds away.
drive the crosshairs to the laser point.
Take it and shoot it @ 50 yds then @ 100
Works every time.
The Sitelite is used by the military ... Because it works!
I usually do the old school literal bore sighting as mentioned already, but sometimes a laser or an optical unit is nice to have. After 40 years of looking down the bore to boresight, my geezer vision now makes it difficult with smaller diameter bores, so I broke down and bought one of these:
Strong Tools $25-$35 Laser Bore Sighter
Not perfect but it has worked great so far. I went with green for visibility on bright days. I couldn't justify spending more than that for the few times I need it.
I also have a magnetic optical bore sighter that goes on the muzzle. Nice to use the night before a trip to the range with several new scope installs to save time the next day. If the muzzle is square you can often get just as close as a laser or actual bore sighting in a few seconds with no need for a distant sighting point. But it doesn't work very well on some rifles with brakes or flash hiders. The Bushnell optical bore sighter is another option and will work with more rifles but it is pretty expensive. Stay clear of the BSA unit unless you buy an adjustable Bushnell spud for it that costs more than I paid for the entire package. The spuds are too sloppy for a decent job with just a goofy wire spring that is supposed to center the spud in the bore. It doesn't. I bought one years ago at something like 80% off (Still not worth the price) and it sits on the shelf. My guess is that the Barska unit is the same as the BSA - too sloppy. If you want a spud held bore sighter, get the Bushnell that comes with three adjustable spuds.
The optical or the laser types are nice for double checking your zero later. Take a photo of the zero relationship with your phone or do a simple drawing and keep that with each rifle. You can then refer to that to check to see if the zero has moved after driving on bumpy roads or after a rough hike in.
Well lets not forget that modern military rifles dont have a bolt you can pull so you can look thru the barrel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Highbrass
I had one of those Bushnell bore sighters with the 3 different arbors and it worked well, but eventually the most used arbor failed and i couldnt get another one.
So i went back to the old tried and true method.
But like everything else, use what you like and are comfortable with.