“Same” Accutrigger, different pull weights? 2010 10PC vs 2006 10 FP

Well I was going to post this in an old thread with similar discussion but the forum told me that was a “bad idea”.

I have a 2006 2nd gen short action 308 10 FP “law enforcement” model with 24” heavy barrel and Choate tactical stock. It is internal box magazine, side bolt release. It has the LE/varmint accutrigger that breaks at 1.5# on minimum setting.

I also have a 2010 3rd gen short action 308 10PC (Precision Carbine) with shorter heavy barrel, detachable box magazine, and bottom bolt release. Also has the LE/varmint accutrigger I believe. Trigger breaks at 2.5-3# approximate minimum setting.

I swapped the trigger spring (brown) from one to the other and the 2006 10FP still broke much much lighter than the 2010 10PC.

QUESTION, how do I get the 10PC to have as light of trigger as the 10FP??? Am I totally overlooking something obvious?

There are three accutriggers. Are you sure you have the same one in both rifles? Maybe instead of just swapping the spring you could swap the whole trigger assembly including the sear/bolt release?

One of the downsides of Savage's very user friendly modular design is that it's more susceptible to stacking production tolerances than some other designs. For example, the Rem 700 has a one piece bolt - so one tolerance variable, whereas with the Savage bolt you have at least 4 components each with it's own production tolerance that can affect things (bolt head, front baffle, bolt body, bolt handle). So even though it's a modular design that allows one to easily swap parts between different rifles, those parts may or may not fit/work the same in the second rifle simply due to tolerance stacking.

Well put Jim.

Easiest way is to ditch the factory trigger and put in a Rifle Basix or Timney.

And yes tolerance stacking can be an issue. The Remington 700 bolt isn't really a one piece bolt. It's just that the parts are brazed together rather than bolted/pinned together like on the Savage.

You can also order a couple "Target Accutrigger Springs" available online here:https://www.gunshack.com/savage-accu...able%20trigger and see if this reduces the break enough.

I've read that you can also replace the safety blade spring with a lighter spring from a ballpoint pen.

Well, not sure just how much relevancy this will have to your rifles, but I will tell you about one of my rifles.

I have had a total of 4 actions timed and trued over the years. All 3 came back with the the trigger breaking below 1 lb with the light trigger spring set on the lightest setting.
I had one that would not go below around 1.5 lbs. I inquired about it and they said it was (I am trying my best to remember) the angle of the sear (or something like that). Like I said, it was a few years ago and I can not remember exactly.
Anyways, he had me send him the sear and he made some adjustment to it and sent it back. When I got it back and reassembled, it then broke below 1 lb.

Perhaps it could be something like this? I am not advocating you try to mod the trigger/sear in any way. But you might try contacting SSS and asking them about it.