https://imgur.com/a/yrugBwq
The Sav 11 Scout (on the left), has considerably less bolt handle rotation than my other 2 Savages, a 204 Ruger, and a7mm Rem Mag(right)
is this normal?
Hope the picture is helpful.
Thanks.
Printable View
https://imgur.com/a/yrugBwq
The Sav 11 Scout (on the left), has considerably less bolt handle rotation than my other 2 Savages, a 204 Ruger, and a7mm Rem Mag(right)
is this normal?
Hope the picture is helpful.
Thanks.
Does the scout function normally? In the picture it looks like it is not closing all the way. The front action screw being too long could cause this as well as the front scope base rear screw. It definitely wouldnt function as normal during firing (if it would fire). The bolt lugs appear as they are not closing all the way the bolt handle normally drops into the stock cutout more than the picture shows.
Thanks, Mnbogboy.
Have not tried to fire it.
I’ll check the screws. I did remove the rail to mount a scope, and put it back on to mount the red dot.
The rear rail screws are normally longer than the front. That could be the problem an easy fix. The very front screw also has to be short to clear the barrel threads. So both front screws are the "short" ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leatherstocking
Also if you have tightened the action screws it could be that the front is too long. Very common with many. The screw may be shortened to clear with a file or dremmel. It wont take much.
Hopefully you find the simple fix.
Thanks again. Just took out the rear screw holding the rail, and now the bolt closes fully. Since you also have a new scout, do you know if the original screws are Allen style, with a hex socket, or slot head?
Can't tell you what screws may have been original on the scout, because i dont have one. My opinions on your problem were based on similar problems with all Savage 110, 10, 11, 16 etc. actions. The front action screw or scope base screws are usually the culprit for a bolt not fully closing. Glad you found the problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leatherstocking
Torx head screws are commonly provided with modern base sets & rails. However allen head are still used once in a while. It is also good practice to torque these using a torque wrench and follow the mfg's recommended torque. Although some of us old timers never had access to torque drivers or even specifications in the past. After you have them loosen or worse yet twist one off, one learns to use common sense tightening them...lol
Good luck & good shooting.
Good Job mnbogboy2
Got it sorted thanks. I found the original Allen screws.
I do have a torque wrench in inch pounds, what would correct torque settings be for action screws and rail and Weaver bases?
Everyone may have different opinions on these torques. Personally i torque base screws to 25 inch/lbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leatherstocking
Action screws depend on the style of stock and if the stock is pillared. For the steel pillars in Savage tupperware stocks i use 45-55 in/lbs both front & rear. Wood stocks without pillars may require less torque. Some "tune" their rifles by adjusting these torques and claim great success. You can find who may do what with a web search.
Others may chime in here because preferences vary and there is no right or wrong (except of coarse too loose or too tight ��).
Good luck.
Here is an article describing torque tuning your action screws on a Savage action. I used this method on my rifle and it does help quite a bit. One thing I would note is that my stock is pillar and glass bedded so that should make a difference in the torque values as compared to a stock without the pillars.
https://www.accurateshooter.com/tech...torque-tuning/
Thanks to all for the helpful responses.