Savage 12 lrp 6.5 creedmoor issues...opinions please

I was having issue with my latest range day last week. When the RO called the line cold I extracted the live round and noticed marring on the bullet itself.
In double checked the seating depth on the 147 grain eld, 2.80 was the measurement. So I tried another and yet still marring the bullet.
So I bought a bore cam upon someone's suggestion and this is what I found.
At first I thought it could be reamer marks, then someone mention carbon( 130 rounds through the barrel) I did see other post on a tight throat or issues from factory.
Savage told me not shoot 147s if 140s were grouping good. I said I shouldn't have too...
Trying to decide whether to send back after spending 300 on getting it threaded and adding a muzzle brake
I was going to post a picture but for some reason I'm not allowed to

Extract one while holding the round steady with your fingers, don't let the ejector sling it into the receiver on the way out. There are some sharp edges in there...when changing barrels I smooth the corners out to save my brass for reloading.

Attachment 6900

Use a OAL comparator to see where the ogive of the bullets are in respect to the lands. It could be the shape of the 140gr is a bit slimmer and not contacting the lands whereas the 147 has the ogive a bit farther forward causing contact (jamming into the leads) with the lands. It may just be a matter of seating those a little bit deeper.

I have seated them well below 2.80 and were still getting these marks..... I ve seated to .275 and marks still there..
From the camera view and from what I'm seeing I'm not even near the lans where this occurs

https://youtu.be/-SsN5XyzPHs
Didn't think of this but here take a look

I read where there was some issues w/ the throat also in my research, but i think it was an issue a few years ago. Thats why, i asked the question in my thread, if anyone knew of any/ current/recent issues. Reason being, is I'm seriously thinking of buying the gun you have. Now, I'm still trying to learn more about these guns, so I don't understand all the terminology, and have limited experience. But, being you said someone just threaded it, one thing that crosses my mind, is what if the machinist cinched the jaws or collet down to hard on the chambered area, or damaged/dropped by accident w/o you knowing about it. Hopefully thats not the case, but, I wonder if you took some of that "blue machinist dye", and painted inside the chamber. then cycle rounds through there. then take your lightscope, and look in there to see where the dye is worn off. How long ago did you buy it?

I bought it in october of 2018

Here's your pics, Larry. Pic2 will need some explaining. The
scuff ring on the bullet is interesting. Something has your
throat closed up.

The bullet is being marked up by that ring which could be carbon build up or machining marks from th3 reamer

I have a video on youtube, thats i took with my bore camera. Its under Red Raider Reloading

Interesting...looks like it's cut a bit tight. How does it shoot? Maybe try polishing it a bit with some bore paste...but if it shoots I would leave it alone.

Shoots 140s without any problem, its when i tried 147s i had cratered primers. Then when i noticed the markings i quit shooting.
The 140s i cloverleafed 3 shots and pulled 2. I would say its got great potential i just dont want to be stuck shooting 140s if 147 grain elds will group aswell

Saami chamber specs have the throat at .2645. Some bullets are very close to .264...it doesn't take much carbon or debris to make up a half of 1/1000. Some eye brow hairs are 5 full thousandths. Double check those 147 diameters.
My guess a good carbon cleaner will get you back in business.
Also you may have to drop your charge a little more for the 147s.
The Savage response however would be unacceptable to me.
If it is too tight of a throat a smith could check it with a pin gauge if tight the throat could be opened up with a throater or another chamber reamer.
My .02,
Randy

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mnbogboy2

Saami chamber specs have the throat at .2645. Some bullets are very close to .264...it doesn't take much carbon or debris to make up a half of 1/1000. Some eye brow hairs are 5 full thousandths. Double check those 147 diameters.
My guess a good carbon cleaner will get you back in business.

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I agree, it doesn't take much and there's a fair amount of carbon build up for a barrel with 130rds. I'd work on getting the carbon out of the throat and see how things go afterward.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PhilC

I agree, it doesn't take much and there's a fair amount of carbon build up for a barrel with 130rds. I'd work on getting the carbon out of the throat and see how things go afterward.

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Well I used clr last night and it seemed to pull some of it out, I'll work on it more this weekend. I have jb bore compound coming in...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Larrykwebb

Well I used clr last night and it seemed to pull some of it out, I'll work on it more this weekend. I have jb bore compound coming in...

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Glad your getting some headway.
That CLR is great on carbon. Did find out the hard way that it also removes "blueing". Just a little heads up to anyone who tries it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mnbogboy2

Glad your getting some headway.
That CLR is great on carbon. Did find out the hard way that it also removes "blueing". Just a little heads up to anyone who tries it.

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Hey Randy !!

Been keeping SLIP 2000 Carbon Killer on the shelf as of late. Hav'nt
had much use for it though since running Alliant R-16. And like your
CLR, it can be nasty on bluing.

Doing some late night surfing, I have come up with "Piston Kleen".
Stuff is supposed to remove baked carbon from piston tops ???
Might be the "Sledge-a-Matic" of carbon removers.

Hey Fuj,
That baked on carbon on muzzle brakes may be a good place tho try it out. When we built race car engines from "Chevy 350 donors" a good overnight soaking of wd-40 and a wire brush with elbow grease applied was the preferred method. There were a sprays back then that worked better but too spendy for our weak budgets!...lol
If this "Piston Clean" works it will be a good thing.
Randy

From a search on 'piston Kleen", it looks like anything you want cleaned has to be soaked.
https://www.google.com/search?client...q=piston+clean

My method when using my Ed's Red was to soak a mop, shove
it in the throat and let it sit over night. A final scrub with Hoppes
and all was good. With my last crop of barrels, I just don't have
any carbon issues. However, I'll get my son to order in a gallon
and I'll split it with him. He just tore down a Kohler twin for a Cub
Cadet. So I got his attention....LOL On the bright side; a gallon
is only about $30 bucks. Were lucky, the words "Gun Cleaner" is
not attached. That $30 bucks would probably be $200 !!

I am interested in this Piston clean for possibly cleaning my silencer. Will it harm a black painted or an anodized finish?

This cuts carbon pretty well. I've been getting it at the local Ford store for around $10 a can.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-.../dp/B000NU5M3W