Printable View
Northland Shooters Supply sells one, that they say is for their BAT action. It's unclear if it would be appropriate for stock Savage actions.
Bighorn sells one that they say will work on Remington or Savage actions. It's apparently sacrificial, if used ham handedly, so it won't bugger up the action.
I get it, that one probably wouldn't want to apply the torque necessary to remove a factory barrel with an internal wrench.
thoughts and/or experiences?
My experience with removing two factory barrels is that they required little torque to spin them off. I recall they had to be gripped with a pair of vise grips over leather padding but that allowed them to come off easily. The barrel nuts offered more resistance than the barrels.
I like the Northland action wrench that clamps over the action but I can envision the speed and convenience of using the internal wrench.
I’ve just never had a problem with the good old fashioned external Action Wrench. I don’t even use them on my AR15 builds.....opting instead to use my barrel vice for high amount of torque applications, i.e., Flashhider/Brake installations.
The barrel on my 10GY took a LOT of torque to get off. I have an external Action Wrench, but having to remove the scope rail is nettlesome.
If you have a good barrel vise, you don't need an action wrench.
Probably more a matter of personal preference, but I also have Northland's action wrench and am pleased with how it works.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill2905
So if I were about to tear apart a 110 to re-barrel for the first time, what barrel vise would you reccomend? ?
Especially considering the cost, I like the Viper. I shim it with some brass to help prevent mangeling up the barrel finish.Quote:
Originally Posted by Syoungs
http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...ll-Barrel-ViseQuote:
Originally Posted by Syoungs
Exactly what Jim said. Although if you have any mechanical aptitude & a few tools, don’t buy one! Easy to build. I build this for a fraction of what they sell for. And I make it of solid 1018 bar stock! The clamping blocks can be made with oak...or aluminum for extreme clamping. And I mean Extreme. The radial clamping load these things can generate is astronomical!
And no I don’t make these to sell...but I can gladly show you exactly what you need, and how to. And my knowledge is gratis.
I was hoping that if I had a good internal action wrench, I wouldn't need a barrel vice. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by sharpshooter
This is for something that's already had the factory barrel removed the first time..
Well, you don’t... You don’t “NEED” a barrel vise period! It’s just a nice thing to have, for gun builders, like Fred, or myself....or one of the MANY others here.Quote:
Originally Posted by stoky
If you are doing one rifle, an Action Wrench & Barrel Wrench will work absolutely fine. I’ve done exactly that with NO problem! No galling of anything....no broken parts. Worked perfect!
Have you already tried this and had it fail? Perhaps I missed that? Gun builders like having their bases covered is what I’m saying. I like a barrel vise(that I also built), because I build many different firearms. But if I’m doing just a Savage, I’ll use my Action Wrench & Barrel Nut Wrench FIRST. Haven’t had a problem to this point.
I "made" a barrel vice by taking ≈4" chunk of a youth ball bat, drilling a hole length wise and cutting it in half length wise. I put it in the pipe jaws of a large Wilton bench vise. It worked okay. I used some rosin to mitigate slipping.
Now I'm playing with a switch barrel and I have to remove the scope mount to use my conventional Wheeler action wrench. I suppose I could notch it, but the rear entry action wrench seems like a slick solution.
I asked NSS if their BAT rear entry wrench would work on a Savage, via E-mail and got terse "no, it won't" answer.