Even more bedding theory...
Okay, so most of us probably bed our actions without the bolt in place. I know bedding with the bolt in place could be a bit more difficult to keep the mud away from the bolt, but probably can be taken care of with some more tape.
My point is, wouldn't having the bolt in place put the action in it's real world stress, this way when you bed it with the bolt in place, if the bolt wants to move the action shape ever so slightly it is not fighting the shape of the bedding.
BillPa, have you ever indicated an action with and without the bolt in place to see if things get moved around, by the way my actions are trued and timed by Fred, maybe this helps remove my above concerns.
What do you guys think?
Charlie
Re: Even more bedding theory...
Maybe with a rigid one piece bolt this might be a concern. However the Savage floating bolt head would tend to eliminate or minimize this concern.
Re: Even more bedding theory...
If the bolt distorts an action you have a problem, floating bolthead or not!
Quote:
BillPa, have you ever indicated an action with and without the bolt in place to see if things get moved around
From the bolt installation itself, no, but what I have witnessed more than once was the POA changing between a cocked and relaxed bolt.
Bill
Re: Even more bedding theory...
Honestly, I think you way over thinking this thing, it is not that critical. Savage rifles are more forgiving in the bedding area than most rifles.
I have bedded many guns, including my Bats, and my long range Savage, they are all very competitive and shoot very well. I have beaten dozens of top notch shooters, and held with the best of guns built by the top gunsmiths in all the country. The way I bed a rifle must be working good enough. The way I bedded them all is I attached the pillars to the action, removed the trigger Assembly, and bolts, I then use shoe polish as a release agent, and locktight 10 min epoxy. I goop it up, drop the action in, and tape it up with electric tape, and let it sit a day or two. I then knock it loose and clean it up, and put it back together. Simple enough and it works trust me.
Re: Even more bedding theory...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 82boy
I have bedded many guns, including my Bats, and my long range Savage, they are all very competitive and shoot very well. I have beaten dozens of top notch shooters, and held with the best of guns built by the top gunsmiths in all the country. The way I bed a rifle must be working good enough. The way I bedded them all is I attached the pillars to the action, removed the trigger Assembly, and bolts, I then use shoe polish as a release agent, and locktight 10 min epoxy. I goop it up, drop the action in, and tape it up with electric tape, and let it sit a day or two. I then knock it loose and clean it up, and put it back together. Simple enough and it works trust me.
Pretty much the same thing I do on mauser sporters, but I leave everything in (bolt, trigger etc.) I don't normally bed around the back of the action unless something like the rear tang is cut too deep. Around the recoil lug, and front part of the action, I use devcon steel putty, and Kiwi shoe polish as a release agent. Put as much in as you can cram, as the excess will squeeze out. If you apply enough shoe polish over the action and barrel, you won't have to worry about mechanical lock. I set my pillars where I want them and tighten down the screws until they reach the pillars. I recently re-beaded a 338-06 sporter that tended to shift in the stock upon firing (poor rushed bedding job on my part the first time). This problem no longer exists due to the tight fight. Sometimes I’ll add a dab under the first 3 inches of a barrel, but not often. I just tend to free float the barrel from start to finish and it works for me. Hope your bedding job turns out well.
Brenden
