I want to do something with the trigger on my 6.5 Axis. It’s 3.75lbs from the factory but I don’t like the travel. Should I go with Timney, Rifle Basix or a modification of the OEM? I’m totally new to all this.
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I want to do something with the trigger on my 6.5 Axis. It’s 3.75lbs from the factory but I don’t like the travel. Should I go with Timney, Rifle Basix or a modification of the OEM? I’m totally new to all this.
Is this an AccuTrigger Axis or a standard trigger Axis? Kinda makes a difference...
It’s a standard triggerQuote:
Originally Posted by J.Baker
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RB trigger is the best upgrade
I tried the suggestions on polishing the factory trigger on my Axis, it helped a lot, but I ended up putting the RB on it and was glad that I did. I don't have a Timney, but may put one on my other Axis just to try it. I think you will be pleased with the RB or Timney.
So, what does the polishing do?
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Polishing can help to reduce grittiness, and grittiness sometimes makes decent triggers feel worse.
I like shimming the trigger, but go with whatever you feel your level of technical proficiency is as well as the tools and supplies you have. A drop-in unit like the Rifle Basix trigger is an excellent choice as well.
are you wanting to keep the original trigger in factory form? I have the same version of the Axis as you, but in 22-250. I snipped coils off the trigger spring on mine (voids warranty) but I knew I wasn't returning it to Savage or having them do any work on it. I started with snipping 1.5 coils off the spring. I worked it down slowly and now my Axis trigger breaks sooner and easier then my AccuTrigger does on my 111 which is turned all the way down.
It's still safe also... I can drop in on the butt while cocked and it doesn't go off.
I can't decide if I want to void warranty or not. I was hoping someone would steer me one way or the other. What's the chances of me needing to send this rifle back to Savage within the next 11 months?Quote:
Originally Posted by SageRat Shooter
If you have to, you could always buy a new spring first.
I went with a M*CARBO trigger spring and shim kit. Lightened my trigger and got rid of the overtravel.. My trigger was nowhere near as light as yours from factory. Took mine from about 6 to 4.
My first thought would be "slim to none". If it's shooting well thus far (mechanically) there's not much of a chance that it will stop functioning in the next 11 months. I think you mentioned before, that you don't put many rounds down range to begin with. 300-400 rounds later I doubt that you'll have any issues. I've got over 1500 rounds on my axis and the only thing mechanically I've "fixed" is the extractor, detent ball, and ejector spring, which you don't have to send it back to savage for.Quote:
Originally Posted by kimbrell224
If you don't want too trim the spring.... There are other springs that have been used, you just pull out the original spring and save it. replace it with a lighter spring for what you want your trigger pull to be... then if you have to send it back to savage for some reason, you just put the original spring back in before you send it off.
I think I remember seeing replacement springs on Amazon? not 100% sure on that though.
I think part of the issue with your "trigger travel" from what I remember about my stock (synthetic) is that when you start the squeeze of the trigger, you actually get flex in the wrist area of the stock as your hand pressure increases for the trigger pull. That gave me the feeling of a very long trigger pull because the flex in that area.
Maybe I'm calling it the wrong thing. When I'm squeezing the trigger I can feel it creep before it goes off. I actually had it apart and squeezed the trigger and I can see what it is. The distance the trigger has to move to release the sear. I know its only a minute amount but it seems like an inch when squeezing. Is there a way to modify this?Quote:
Originally Posted by SageRat Shooter
You're getting into Sharp Shooter's area of expertise now. See if you can send a PM to Sharp Shooter asking that question. The guy knows his stuff about anything Savage and will hopefully be able to give you some good advice.
This may be a "polishing" of the sear situation, which I believe was mentioned earlier in this thread. But again, try to get a hold of Sharp Shooter.
http://www.savageshooters.com/member...5-sharpshooter Found his page for you from one of my previous posts.
Some people would stone the trigger down to get rid of the travel, others shim the sear up to gain the same thing.
This is what I have heard also.Quote:
Originally Posted by Evlshnngns
Gotcha. I trimmed the spring and polished the sear and it’s now at 2.5lbs. It still has the travel of course. I might try the shimming or stone next. I need to do more research on that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Evlshnngns
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shimming is reversible, stoning is not. I would recommend to shim on your first trigger job, if you go that direction.
I like trimming the spring on the older Axis model and prefer the older full trigger over Accutrigger.
On a wheeler trigger pull gauge I get about 2.75 lb pull on triggers when redone on older stainless steel axis models.
I cut 2 to 2.5 coils off the factory spring till I get down just under 3 lbs.
Older Savage Axis stainless models still selling new for under $300 on gunbroker.