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I have a very nice Model 10 with the 2 screw pre acutrigger . After studying the post here it seems to me the just installing a sear engagement screw and polishing the sear would be the thing to do for a good tactical style 2lb trigger . as is it will only adjust down to around 3 lb. unsatisfactory to me. Is there any reason the trigger cant be annealed drilled tapped and rehardened ( not really as hard as it sounds)
Theoretically yes you could. If it were me I would just find a factory 3-screw trigger and you are good to go or pick up one of the aftermarket variants from Rifle-Basix. I think one of the other big names like Jard or Timney also make their own as well but its been a long while since I looked at those so don't quote me on those brands.
the classified sections here are great for finding parts, you must be a paid member but it is worth it if you are going to do much buying or selling. I am normally a paid member here but I let my renewal lapse and have not gotten around to paying up, FWIW.
I have done one a little differently and a little simpler by protecting the sear face with a thin piece of shim stock while burning a small bead onto the trigger where the sear screw goes with a wire welder. Then I just filed down the bead a little tried it and then filed a little more and tested until I got the engagement I wanted. Granted it's not adjustable but once done right there's no need for further adjustment. I coupled that with a lighter spring made from .043 piano wire and wound up with a really nice trigger. Not bad at all for a tuned up "lawyer" trigger.
I have seen where some other guys shim with various materials but the bead just adds metal permanently right where you need it to lessen sear engagement and wont ever slip or fail.
Just figured I'd throw it out there as another option since it worked well for me.
It's darn sure cheaper, less time consuming, and more permanent than some of the other methods.
Thanks for the answers Yall the welding trick is interesting . The buying new parts is what Im trying to circumvent
You could just shim the trigger. I've done it on an Axis trigger and it seems to work pretty good.
You don't need to do any of this stuff, and You don't need a sear engagement screw.
I have gotten several triggers down to a sharp 2 1/2#'s, safely, and this is about as far as You can go.
Polishing is something You do to jewelry. Forget that term. You want to "stone" trigger serfaces, flat and sharp, not cutesy rounded surfaces.
1. Replace the wire spring with a .040" spring.
2. Stone the sear engagement surfaces, removing burs, without changing the step angle.
3. The next step requires trial and error. The step needs to be no less than .015" for safety. This is what the sear engagement screw adjusts for. It doesn't need to be adjustable, it can be permanent. Using a Dremel 1/2" grinding stone, grind the curved surface above the step about 1/2" back. I blacken the surface with MM, and only take off that much at a time. You need to install it and try it until it is where You want it. Not too much at a time, and don't take the step below .015".
4. I discovered this because I had two Stevens triggers that were so bad they were useless. I decided if I messed them up, I wouldn't be loosing anything. But I didn't mess them up and they work fine.
5."There are those on the net that will tell You if You breathe on the trigger, it will destroy the surface hardening". I have not found that to be true. I suspect the hardening is deeper than thought, because I've been using these triggers for 7 years with no detectable wear. I do lubricate that surface with #2 pencil lead.
6. Remember, if You try this method, it is permanent. Take Your time and don't over do it.
7. You can avoid all this by getting Sav 1 or a Timney for $100. No matter what they advertise, You can't get them less than 2#'s safely. I sent mine back.
Disclaimer: Don't work on any rifle trigger unless You know exactly what Your doing!
Best or Luck....:-))