Anyone bedded a V-block?

I had a previous post asking "why won't my 10FP shoot well?" and recieved a lot of suggestions. to re-cap, I have a 10FP, .308 purchased from Cabelas which has the McMillan Choate Stock.. It will shoot 2, 3 in virtually the same hole, then one high or one low. Very frustrating. Today I had someone nationally ranked shoot it. This guy will shoot all day off a rest and when he's finished there's one small hole. Custom guns of course, but he's another set of eyes and another trigger finger. He had the same results, shooting off his rest. I was shooting IMR 4895 40.5g under 168 HPBT from Nosler. I used Varget, 44.5g samne bullet. I used Black Hills match ammo, Federal match ammo, all with the same results. so, after shooting my rifle, he said it's definately mechanical.

We removed the stock, it's V-block mounted and I could see some areas where it touched the blocks and other areas that appeared to be not as marked up. After re-tightening the action back into the stock, it would shoot more consistant, but again every once in a while one would stray out of the group. He suggested skim bedding the stock.

Has anyone bedded this type of V-block system? If so, how difficult was it and what suggestions do you have? Any videos with this type of block which I could watch? I'm the type of guy who would rather do it himself rather than hire someone to do it, but if I have to I will.

Thanks....

I'm wondering if what is the make of v block McMillan is using in the Choate stock also is it the same as what John Whidden http://www.whiddengunworks.net/index.html is making for bedding Remington actions and now is going to make the same for the Savage action with clips and solid actions.

"McMillan Choate Stock " First you need to figure out what stock you have, I am going to assume it's a Choate.... NOT McMillan. They are 2 competing companies.

If it is a Choate, did you use a torque wrench and tighten the action screws to 65 in lbs ?

You're right Ace, it's a Choate. I believe Cabelas had them built special for sale in their stores. The action screws were not torqued to 65 lbs as you suggested. Can you tell me where that number comes from? They were tightened by hand, although I will put a torque wrench on them tonight. Again, where does the 65# number come from?

I'm still wondering if anyone has bedded a rifle that uses V blocks.

I bedded a Choate Ultimate varmint with the bedding block. I wanted more surface contact and I didn't like the idea of potentially wearing the blueing on the action with the metal to metal contact.

Mugsie Careful here Like Ace said INCH/LBS NOT LBS.
If you do 65 lbs.you will be drilling and tapping new holes

Gotcha - INCH pounds. thanks.

Woodchuckhunter - I tried PM'g you but no luck - what do I need to watch out for? How difficult was it? Any pics to share? What are your recommendations?

Thanks....

One potential source of your problem could be that the V block is more square and true than your action. Most Savage actions are warped to some degree. Bedding should help that.

so here's the question - do i just fill in and "bed" the tiny little part insode the V block so now it's U shapped and fits the barrel?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mugsie

so here's the question - do i just fill in and "bed" the tiny little part insode the V block so now it's U shapped and fits the barrel?

---

What he said, and what about the pillars? Extend, drill, what?

Larry
Tinkerer

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mugsie

so here's the question - do i just fill in and "bed" the tiny little part insode the V block so now it's U shapped and fits the barrel?

---

Bed the lug area as you normally do then skim coat the rest. Don't pull the action in with screws, allow it to rest naturally in the bedding. What you don't want is to pull it in and duplicate the fit and stress in the bedding as it is now. About an inch or so in back of the forend tip wrap the barrel with vinyl electrical tape in layers building it in layers to level the action in the stock and eliminate the barrel weight. Use guide screws to locate the action and guide it into the bedding. Push the action into the bedding with firm pressure then forget it for a day or so to cure. ( I let them go for three days).

When your done with the tape still on the barrel, check your work. You want to see .001" or less loosening and tightening the screws alternating between them.
http://i45.tinypic.com/2s13n6w.jpg


Ah, the pillars in a block? Don't worry about them. They'll do the job intended, prevent stock material compression from screw torque, they don't do anything else block or otherwise.

Bill

Bedding a V Block Defeats the purpose of the V Block..... Do your Research before you do it.... Call Fred Choate if you need it.

Bill, I assume from your test indicator setup you're looking for stress on the receiver as you torque it to the stock? Thanks

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ~Ace~

Bedding a V Block Defeats the purpose of the V Block..... Do your Research before you do it.... Call Fred Choate if you need it.

---

If "by defeating the purpose" you mean having a barrel that is not substancially misaligned in the barrel channel than I'll defeat it every time. My barrel didn't line up for anything when I torqued the action in, hence the bed job plus the previously mentioned reasons.

Mugsie,
I essentially bedded it in the same method BillPA described.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bushwack

Bill, I assume from your test indicator setup you're looking for stress on the receiver as you torque it to the stock? Thanks

---

Exactly. What I looking for is a stress free job, I don't want the action flexing when the screws are tightened. Some indicate from the barrel to the forend with the rifle standing vertical, but I chose to go across the action with the barrel weight removed. If I get some flex with the barrel weight it indicates another issue, the barrel shank may need a pad or bedded a few inches ahead of the receiver. Remember, any distortion in the action also affects the stuff above it, ring and mount alignment for one.

As far as defeating the purpose of a "V" block, what if my action is egged shaped, the bridge measures 1.345" and the ring 1.350"? What if the ring is egged shaped? . I see them fit so perfect they locked the bolt when the screws were tightened, the barrels shift left or right, the lug not even close to the shoulder, making contact on one side. The block may be fine, but the action? Far from it.

It only a matter if you want it right or close is good'nuf!

Bill

Quite simply, Defeating the purpose is using the V Blocks for a purpose they were not intended for...

I did Not say don't bed them, I said do your research, google is your friend.. There is Lots of info about them online, and on Choates website. It would be wise to have a basic understanding of the system before you modify it.

For the record, I have never been a big fan of Choate stocks. The new Tactical ones are a Major improvement over the previous models tho. But, the V Block setup and the leverage it gives makes up for most if not all imperfections in the Action of the rifle.. Most folks that Bed them or cuss them have not researched the critter and used the 65inch lbs of torque.

I too have the same rifle and it doesn't perform as i had hoped. It has been on the back burner for a year now.I am hoping you solve your problem and maybe that will help me figure out which direction I need to head. thanks.,.