When using headspace gauges to set headspace what is the purpose of removing the extractor and ejector? Can you set it without removing them?
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When using headspace gauges to set headspace what is the purpose of removing the extractor and ejector? Can you set it without removing them?
I always did it with them in on 3 different savage actions. No issues with it in at all. Some will say they have a better feel for it with them removed, but I've never found it necessary.
What he said ^^^^^^^^^
Just make sure that the extractor goes over rim of gauge.
Like everyone above me has said, I set my headspace without removing the extractor and ejector....easy peasy!
+4....I've set up 5 or 6 and haven't ever taken them out.
Scooter
Thanks guys. This is my first run at changing a barrel and just wanted to make sure. I appreciate the help.
I checked my new 12FV without removing the ejector and extractor.
I came out spot on, closed fully on the go, did not close at all on the no go.
I think its good advice to be very careful and check, but in this case I am not planning on taking my bolt apart to do it (two new barrel and tools on the way so I am going to be following my own advice)
That said, if you ever work with a model of 1917 30-06 or a SMLE with the cock on open bolt, you do need to remove the firing pin, it will damage the gauge.
The above line needs to be changed to Cock On Close, wrongly put, correction in so trail can be seen.
It is to ensure the gauge is square against the boltface and to reduce wear on the extractor.Quote:
Originally Posted by bam_bam
I sometimes do not remove them when switching between barrels I have used previously. With new barrels I remove them to get a true first reading.
What sort of damage to the gauge can occur with these firearms?Quote:
Originally Posted by RC20
I remove the ejector only, so the guage sits flush against bolt face. We are dealing with thousandths of an inch here. Do I think it's absolutely necessary? No. But I can be absolutely sure with it removed.
I remove extractor, ejector, and firing pin assembly. Then I put the bolt handle back on and the screw. I was taught to do it this way with Rem 700's (except the bolt handle part), always figured it was also a good idea on Savage.
It crushes the gauge. Cock on close is a whole different animal.Quote:
Originally Posted by geezerhood
I said it wrong when I said cock on open, variations of the 1917 were changed to cock on open.
It was probably started by the guy who had all those little detent balls and springs for sale. Just go slow, check and triple check
I set headspace on my Savage rifles by making sure the bolt will just close on the go-gauge. Then I add a piece of thin clear package tape to the base of the gauge (case head), carefully trim it around the edges, and then make sure it offers resistance to closing. Since the tape is soft and thin, you can force the bolt closed if you try hard enough. In other words, part of this head space procedure has to do with how the bolt feels when you close it. Therefore I remove the ejector and extractor so that the feel is purely associated with how the bolt closes without the effects of the ejector and extractor as they contact the gauge.
It also ends up with headspace set to tighter tolerances than if you use both a typical go and no-go gauge set. Others use a different procedure or don't worry too much about headspace as long as it's somewhere in the acceptable range. Different strokes and all that.