recommendations for scope under $1100 for 12lrp 6.5 creedmoor

I have put a deposit on a model 12lrp in 6.5 creedmoor. I intend to shoot out to 1,000 yards. Im new to long range shooting and just trying to get into it. I bought the gun that seems to be the best bang for my buck as far as being setup for long range.

Im looking at optics now. I would like to be at least 20 power. I do not intend to use the reticle for ranging so FFP is not a must have. However it would be nice to have some markings for windage ect that would work at the right power.

Right now my top optics im looking at are the Vortex Viper HS-t 6-24x50 for around $650 the vortex pst ffp 6-24x50 around $950, the nightforce shv 5-20x56 at around $1100 and sig sauer whiskey 5 5-20x50 also ar around $1100.

Due to my budget the hs-t is at the top of my list because i dont need ffp or anilluminated reticle that the pst offers. I have looked at all 3 scopes in person. But could only look at them in store. If i could take them outside that would have been nice.

Any suggestions on any of these scopes or others in the price range that i should look at instead? Thank you.

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IF you are (ex)military ask about discounts from the manufacture.

The SIII is a great scope for the price.

Sightron SIII

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In my opinion, the glass of the SIII blows the vortex pst out of the water.

Thank you. I will look into the sightron. I dont know if my local store can get them in but i will give it a shot

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Im seriously considering the sIII i was looking on midwayusa and burs is about $100 cheaper

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The Viper PSTs are outstanding scopes. So are the SIIIs.

But at that price, check out the Nightforce SHV and possibly the NXS. The SHV you should be able to get in FFP, the NXS would be SFP and a little more expensive. Also keep an eye out for a secondhand Vortex Razor Gen I, they can usually be had for around $1,400, maybe a little less depending on where you look. Plenty of good optics in that price range.

There's an mrad gen 1 razor on Texas armslist for $1000 right now.

^^ Yep. Don't think you're going to beat it for the money.

http://www.lensandlasers.com/elite-t...ildot-34mm-mat

The Bushnell Elite tactical is only a little over your budget at $1156, but holds it own against scopes that cost much more:

http://precisionrifleblog.com/2014/0...sults-summary/

Bushnell elite with the G2 reticle or Burris with the SCR reticle, http://www.burrisoptics.com/reticles/scr-mil. You can find the Bushnell used, Burris not so much.

Here is a thought.... http://swfa.com/Burris-4-20x50-XTR-I...pe-P79829.aspx

There are several great recommendations on scopes that have already been listed that can fulfill your needs. Don't think you'll be losing out if you choose from Vortex, Sightron, Burris, or Nightforce. If you can, take the scopes to a range and see how they work. One thing to watch for is make sure the turrets match up to the reticle. If you get a MOA turret scope, make sure the reticle is also set for MOA. Most of the scopes in the $1000 price range will perform about the same. If possible, I would look at that second hand vortex razor scope. If something is wrong with the scope, you can send it off to Vortex and they'll fix it for you.

I hear this said all the time now days about the importance of matching turrets/reticle.
I'm not attempting to credit or discredit that, and I can certainly understand for some types
of shooting it could be more important than for others.
But if we can be open minded for a bit on that, suppose we had a 4'x8' pc of plywood painted
white propped up verticly at 1000 yds.
On the plywood target at no exact location was an orange aiming point of unknown size.
First shot was low right, explain to me how a matching reticle would help me on the second shot?
And, assuming I didn't have that type setup would there be any alternatives that would allow me to make a
second round hit besides just being lucky?
Which might help in either case? lol

Well, if you had your optic set at the proper zoom level which made the hash marks of the recticle true (SFP) or if you had a (FFP) optic, you could simply hold back on bull and measure with the recticle to the POI.. Then you could either adjust your scope accordingly or simply hold off.. All of this providing you have perfect ammo and the wind condition remained the same...

If the recticle was a mil dot with moa knobs, you would just pack up your **** and head home.. LOL...

Does that make any sense?

All I know is that 1 click(1/4 MOA) at 1000 yards is 2.6175" or 1 click (.1 Mil) in milradians it is 3.6" or 9.14 centimeters regardless of your reticle.

It means if you can't do math you must be a product of the new way they teach it.

Well i went with the vortex hs-t. It should serve me well and if i decide to upgrade later on then i have other rifles the vortex could go on.

I also ordered a talley 20 moa base and vortex bubbld level

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[QUOTE=cowtownup;361081]Well, if you had your optic set at the proper zoom level which made the hash marks of the recticle true (SFP) or if you had a (FFP) optic, you could simply hold back on bull and measure with the recticle to the POI.. Then you could either adjust your scope accordingly or simply hold off.. All of this providing you have perfect ammo and the wind condition remained the same...

If the recticle was a mil dot with moa knobs, you would just pack up your **** and head home.. LOL...
Does that make any sence?

Well to me it dosent, because for me in view of why I do this, (hunting) it might mean wait till next year.
Besides, when I learned to shoot there weren't any scope choices like we have today. So you had to find
ways to hit things with what was available which wasent much, but frankly it isn't very hard.
As for the question, id advise trying what ive said. It need not be at 1000 yds but the farther the better.
Imagine if you can, that when you shoot at the target, a small black speck appears in your scope exactly
where the bullet impacted the target, and the speck stays there until you fire the next shot when it moves
to align itself with where that shot hit.
What would happen is, if you were to transfer the black speck in the scope from the first shot, to the orange aiming point on the plywood, you would hit it with your second shot. No dialing involved, just hold and shoot.
So if you have a milldot type reticle or not, or wether it matches the turrets or not, it can be used in this manner for second round hits.
Now if your attempting to move a bullet 6" on a target, then certainly a matching scope would be a benefit.
Also while your experimenting with the plywood target or any target, try this dialing method.
Shoot your first shot at the target. Then realign the reticle on the original aiming point, and without allowing the gun to move, dial the scope so that the reticle is aligned with the first shot hit on the target.
Shoot again, and assuming you didn't move the gun or dial incorrectly, your second shot will be where you want it to be.
FFP, 2nd ffp, mill/mill, yadda yadda or whatever, it really dosent matter much for the most part except to our individual opinions, some of which were gathered by simply reading what others think.