I bought a 1.250" barrel for a small shank savage and I was wanting to see what it looks like when you step it down and keep the barrel nut.. Just wondering if anyone has a picture of that..
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I bought a 1.250" barrel for a small shank savage and I was wanting to see what it looks like when you step it down and keep the barrel nut.. Just wondering if anyone has a picture of that..
I prefer to build a "nutless" Savage/Stevens when these barrel opportunities present themselves.
Here you go
[img width=600 height=400]http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww110/ddguns/IMG_3244.jpg[/img]
I will warn you that it will be very heavy.
I would have thought you'd need to relieve the diameter a bit further to allow the barrel nut to be spun forward when taking the barrel off, etc.?
have a .220 swift barrel set up that way also. not a thing of beauty but it is on there
Here's one that Sinman did on my 338 Edge.
[img width=600 height=450]http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee269/geargrinder123/S8001329.jpg[/img]
Sinman is the one who built mine as well. I told him the thickness of the recoil lug and he was just about perfect as far as taking the nut loose. To take the barrel off you don't have to thread the nut all the way out. Just enough to release the tension so the barrel can be threaded off.
What if I cut the taper part of the nut off. I personaly think it would look a little better with out the nut taper. I was thinking of just cutting it off right as the wrench groves start. Is it possible?
I don't see why you couldn't do that.
If you cut the taper off you would see the threads on most barrels
Well what I am talking about here is a barrel that isnt supposed to have a barrel nut. It it head spaced like a remington 700 etc. I was thinking if I increase the length of the treads a little and cut the taper of the nut it would look really good. I would want to measure it all so that the shoulder of the barrel was within .125 - .250 of the end of the barrel nut. If my mind pictures work out, it would look better. There is nothing wrong with it the other way, I just want it to be perfect.
I like your idea.... alot
I would shoot for the smallest gap. To get there I might do the following
Cut off the tapper from the nut. Measure the remaining nut thickness
Screw the barrel in with no nut or recoil lug to headspace position.
From the action face, measure (using good dial calipers) and mark the barrel the distance of the nut + the recoil lug. Mark it very carefully and accurate.
Pull the barrel and cut the threads to that mark + 1 or maybe 2 threads more.
There is probably other ways to do this but which ever method is chosen. I believe that the cleanest looking finished result would be a very small amost undetectable gap. After all it only takes a very little rotation of the nut to release the barrel.
It's certainly a person 'flavor' thing... without seeing one in person I'm not sure how I like the idea of the 'gap' there, however small. I am curious, though... what precisely do you expect to gain by going from a 1.160" dia. straight taper (max size of a large shank barrel, IIRC) to a 1.250" straight taper? Seems to me that a lot of your 'rigidity' would be undermined by the relatively unsupported smaller diameter section...
My hole deal with it is that I got a Kreiger 6mm dasher with a diameter of 1.250 with 200 rounds through it for $160.
I guess my point is... if you're going to have to pay a 'smith to do the fiddlin' around with the shortened barrel nut, and the step in the barrel contour ahead of the nut... unless you're planning on switching this barrel between a couple different actions, why not just get it chambered on there with a traditional Rem-chester no-nut configuration? Probably wouldn't cost much more... bu it would lack the novelty factor ;)
I'd just have it chambered nutless/shouldered and be done with it.
..I would've had him put a radius on that square shoulder to reduce a possible stress riser.... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by geargrinder
I will check the headspace and see if it is close after I get it and then decide what to do after. I can alway hope that it will fit. This will be a designated barrel for this action..
There is. Just with the angle of the picture, you can't see it very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Shot