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I want to get a 112 Target rifle in 338 Lapua and suppress it. Are there any issues with removing the factory brake or is it simply unscrewed (maybe with heat to break loctite)? Also, what thread pitch does Savage use so I know what adapter I'll need for the suppressor?
Thanks.
Just wrap a screw driver in a cloth, put it through one of the ports, and twist it off. Probably won't need any heat.
Thread pitch is 5/8x24, same as all other factory threaded rifles.
Exactly what I was hoping to hear. Thanks!
Not sure what the brake is like on the 112 Target version of the 338 Lapua, but my LRH has wrench flats on the brake. Put it in an action wrench or barrel vise, heat the brake up to loosen the thread locking compound (I wasn't sure they had used it, assumed it had been applied, and found that they did once removed.), put a tight fitting wrench on the flats and turn it loose - Lefty Loosey / Righty Tighty. Mine came off much easier than loosening a factory barrel nut.
The thread size on mine is 5/8x24.
The crush washer on mine had expanded into the relief cut on the threads at the muzzle and will not come off without cutting it, which is a pain to do based on experience. I used the brake on my new X-Caliber barrel with a new crush washer (DPMS LR-308) and it fit perfectly. I will eventually replace that with a Painkiller and put the original brake back on the factory barrel to go back to my hunting setup, using thread locker and the same crush washer so I don't have to cut it off of there.
If you want to be able to switch back and forth between the brake and your suppressor and don't want to deal with a crush washer being stuck on there, you may want to index the brake without a washer, or possibly use something like this washer kit:
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/barrel-parts/rifle-barrel-hardware/washers/5-8-x-24-accu-washer-alignment-system-sku100010537-54363-105319.aspx
Those washers would slide off easily when switching to the suppressor.