An interesting take on Accutrigger modification

I found this just browsing Savage videos on Youtube. Though this is definitely a WECSOG procedure, the principle is sound and the cost extremely low. I am going to try this on one of my rifles but will cut a slot in the bottom of the screw with a dremel tool so it can be adjusted more easily with a screwdriver rather than using pliers as recommended in the video. I will also use blue loctite rather than red.....

My apologies if this video has been posted before on the site.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ba3sWKdl8lU

Would you list the sizes that you used

That is one talented mechanic to be able to do a trigger job on a Savage Accutrigger while holding a cigarette. I can barely walk and chew gum.

[emoji6]

Pretty obvious that guy is Polish.....

LOL....Fred was doing this 12 years ago, not like it's anything new. Rather than going through the hassle of cutting the head off a 10-24 bolt and trying to slot the end just use a long 10-24 set screw.

I like this idea but instead of cutting the machine screw head off why not get a set screw instead that way you only have to remove the unwanted threads. Also red loctite can be removed with just a little heat. Don't mean to be a know it all but fasteners is what I do for a living :-)

Just my .02

Terry

Thanks everyone. I was just looking for the bolt dia and spring information.
I want to say Thank you.
Shoot Straight and shoot often

Mike

35Whelenshooter - The screw size was 10-24 x 3/4" long. The hardware store didn't have the spring part number (C-582 3/16" OD x 1-38"L x 0.16" wire) he posted, but I found several that would work in various lengths and strengths for 75 cents or so. I bought the longest spring in the diameter / tension wanted vs a shorter one as they were the same price, so I could get two or three uses from each spring.

bossmav -I guessed that he cut the rather large screw head off because of clearance issues in the stock he was using? There was plenty of room on my setup for a hex or torx head screw, so no need to cut the head off of a hex head screw on mine. I went with blue Loctite so that I would be able to adjust it at the range when I didn't have a torch if needed. A headless setscrew would be ideal, but the longest set screw the hardware store stocked was only 1/4" long and I needed one significantly longer. I will probably order some long setscrews and some thin nuts for the next go.

gbflyer - Yea, that is pretty funny stuff. It looks like he takes some flack for smoking in some of his other videos.

I also used a softer and longer spring than that guy and bent a leg on it to go in the hole on the action. This keeps the spring from popping out which was happening because I used a softer spring. I ground a point on the screw with a small flat on top of that so it doesn't bump into the spring dogleg, but rather hits the action. I turned down the threads on the screw so that the spring moved more smoothly. I found that with the thinner wire spring I used it would catch in the threads and adversely impact the pull characteristics randomly. The spring was trimmed until I got the pull weight I wanted. I kept the screw a bit longer so that it works as an adjustable over-travel stop. Total cost was just over a buck per trigger getting at least two uses / spring. Sure beats $6 $15 plus shipping for various springs / kits out there plus I got some WECSOG points out of the deal.

I may revisit it and add a thin nut as a locking device on the screw, then drip some penetrating Loctite on there or lacquer it just to make it a bit more secure than the nut alone.

Update on this technique for those of you who have never tried it.

I was able to get some longer hex socket setscrews and what seems to be the ideal spring for $1.30 for the pair at another hardware store. I also purchased a grade 8 thin hex nut as a locknut. Unfortunately there was not any room on my 338 Lapua LRH for a screw head or a lock nut to poke out below the trigger body where the screw goes, in place of the Accutrigger spring. With any metal protruding beyond the bottom it would hit the rearmost trigger guard screw area and make the trigger non functional. I had to cut the screw flush for it to work, just like the guy in the video did other than I cut the other end off and ground a point on it since the setscrew had no head on it.

This slightly stiffer spring is perfect. If anyone wants the wire diameter, let me know. I forgot to make note of it but will look the next time I am at the store. It doesn't tend to slide around as much as the lighter spring I used on the other rifle, so I think it would work without a 90 degree tip bent to fit in the hole in the action, but I went ahead and put one on there anyway. Pull is right at about 14 ounces, which for the 338 Lapua feels like I want it to. I will most likely put the heavier factory spring back in it if I ever take it hunting, but for shooting on the bench I am very happy.