https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQJnIWgG9PI
you can fast forward to 6 min in. That is where the magic happens. lol. OMG he has the comments turned off.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQJnIWgG9PI
you can fast forward to 6 min in. That is where the magic happens. lol. OMG he has the comments turned off.
If he had already resized the brass, what would be the purpose of annealing it?
I'm pretty sure he smoked them beyond repair
the same as before sizing.Quote:
Originally Posted by keeki
maybe...the problem IMHO is that if you dont dunk the case the heat travels down into the head and softens the brass and the primer pockets wont last....ask me how i know LOL!Quote:
Originally Posted by doctnj
The main reason to anneal is because it has gotten to hard to resize and becomes springy.
I am just looking at the blow torch hitting 2/3 of the way down the case with out being moved around. All the yellow flame. And quite red metal. I love seeing others opinions on this topic. Really.
thats one reason...the other reason is for consistency.Quote:
Originally Posted by keeki
im sure you have seen but theres a ton of vids on youtube about annealing and several of them only anneal one side...im not sure how or if it effects annealing but ive always spun mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by doctnj
Surely you don't think that you can take a torch and a set of eyes and heat brass accurately enough to control the pressure that it takes to re- expand that brass
i use tempilaq 750 on 10 cases...anneal 3 and count until the tempi burns off then run 25 or 30 then run 3 with the tempi and continue this until im done...its worked well for me for 6yrs now...Quote:
Originally Posted by keeki
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/...1448419567.jpg
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/...1448419566.jpg
Love the mount, home built?
yes...its the revised mount lol...the first one was pretty ugly but worked well.
I always do mine in a dark room, place them in a deep well socket and rotate the neck in a propane torch flame. When I see a dull red, in a very dark room, I flip the case out of the socket and into a container of cool water.
He doesn't spell too well, either.
I agree with the above and that's the way I do it. I don't put the brass in water, and I always use tempilaq to verify the temperature.Quote:
Originally Posted by bdz65
With large amounts of brass, I will use my BenchSource. It's a great machine, but just to do 60 cases or so, it's not worth setting it up. I can do 65 cases (low RPM-socket method) in less than 5 minutes.
JMO
The YouTube video that doc posted needs to be deleted. I hope anyone who watch's this video seeks further advice.
Pretty much how I do it. I watch for the color change just below the shoulder and stop as soon as I see the change. My brass looks just like military annealed cases, I let mine air cool and then I clean up the necks with 4/0 steel wool and resize.Quote:
Originally Posted by bdz65
Every Sunday I am advised to "be grateful for three things". This week I am grateful for the following:
1. I don't need magazines :-)
2. Over the years, I have stockpiled enough Remington reloading components that I am not a victim of the fact that Remington is only producing and selling loaded ammo, as fast as they can do it, and ignoring their reloading market. :-)
3. That I learned about annealing with the "Candel Method". No buying extra propane, sitting in dark rooms, templack, etc., etc., etc. I know I'll never be as cool as my BIL, who just bought the latest, greatest annealing rig, but I'm still grateful! :-)
I've never annealed my brass so I looked it up on YouTube to learn more about it and watched this very same video none-the-wiser. Funny seeing the video in here now with these comments. I concluded that since I'm shooting exclusively fire-formed brass and only resizing the neck slightly, I should be good to forgo this step. Thoughts?
Yes and no.
If your loads shoot well enough and you don't mind buying new brass more often than necessary, you may do fine without ever annealing a piece of brass. On the other hand, you could try it and see if you get better groups due to more consistent neck tension.
I see. Good to know, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by foxx
This right here! To get consistent neck tension, I feel you need consistent brass hardness, in the neck.Quote:
If your loads shoot well enough and you don't mind buying new brass more often than necessary, you may do fine without ever annealing a piece of brass. On the other hand, you could try it and see if you get better groups due to more consistent neck tension.
I am no expert but I do know I worked with a 270 all summer. I annealed every 3-4 reloadings and the 15 cases I started with are on their 8th reloading. I use a Redding full length die with their shell holder set, which allows me to customize how far I bump the shoulder back. I also use the Hornady headspace gauge to verify I am using the shell holder which only bumps the shoulder back .001" - .002" from the fire formed length. So far no cracked necks, I am confident if I didn't anneal and bumped the shoulder the full .007" a standard shell holder would do, my brass would not have made it to 8 reloadings! Finally I have been using the Redding competition bullet seater. This combination produces ammo that reliably shoots 1.375" @ 200 yards, maybe not overly impressive but I am very happy.
When I get my 308 back from Savage I plan to experiment with using the Lee collet die and only full length size, with minimal shoulder bump every 3-4 reloadings. I will be starting with Laupa brass and plan to continue annealing every 4 reloadings.