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Im looking at doing a savage 6x45 build on the axis action and getting my 6mm-223 barrel from jim @ apache. My question is do I want a 20",22" or 24" barrel? What is the velocity difference in those barrel lengths? This gun will be used for plinking and mainly YOTE killin. So shooting long range is at the bottom of my list, however id still like to get the most velocity out of the barrel as I can. Thanks in advance.
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Originally Posted by Remingtonman
You've answered your own question. While I doubt the velocity difference between a 20" and a 24" barrel will be much over 100 fps, , the 24" barrel will give you the higher velocity.
I tend to gravitate towards longer barrels for long pokers,(26"-30") especially with larger capacity cases and big bores. just to provide some runnin' room with powder burn speed/ bullet weight selection, seems to make for a wider velocity/accuracy "sweet spot".
For mid range and shorter, small case capacity, small bore hunting, "carry thru the woods" type guns, fast taper, whippy barrels, 18"-22" is more the norm. 16.5" medium taper, lightweight build for a "truck gun" or all purpose plinker,
Thanks Paul
Yeah I can contribute!!!
I just finished my 6x45 AR, prior to deer season, I went with an 18" barrel with it. If I would do it over I'd have gone with the 24" The rifle is a tack driver, but with that light of a caliber I'd like all the velocity I can get to guarantee expansion. Because I am limited to Mag length of 2.26" (which you won't be) I am limited to max of about 90gr bullets. My best loads are 70gr Varmageddon bullets for plinking (Way to light a jacket to hunt deer with) and 85gr Sierra Game Kings for deer. Running the 70gr Varm about 2800-2850.
At 18" i'm not pushing much over 2700fps MAX at the muzzle with my hottest loads with the 85gr. With 24" I'd expect that to be in the 2900 - 3000FPS arena.
I love the caliber! It is super easy to reload for, Super cheap to obtain components for, and here in Washington, legal for deer.
My next build is going to be a Axis 6X45, from Apache.
With the bolt action you would be able to load the 100+gr bullets but it would have limiting returns, as you just can't push um fast enough for good effect with a 223 case. BUT the advantage to a bolt is you can load them longer, gaining powder capacity in the case.
My favorite powders are
1. 8208XBR
2. H335
3. Varget. ( a word of note. **I don't believe** it's possible to fit enough Varget into a 6x45 case to ever show a pressure sign. That was why I started with it. At 25gr with a 70Gr Varmageddon I was getting .15" groups consistently, during barrel breakin no less. NOW the downside... Velocity, 25gr of Varget was crunchy even with the short 70gr, when loaded to 2.26" BUT when I ran it thru the Chrono, it was 300FPS slower then where I wanted it. My 90gr BT test loads were in the 1/4" 10shot groups, at 2000fps, 500+fps slower then desired. Great accuracy, but snail mail delivery.
I have since settled on my loads using 8208 and slightly larger average groups at around 1/2-3/4" groups, BUT at the velocities I want.
Quickload has been indispensable in showing the actual length of the bullets, so I could decide on the shorted bullets available to give me the greatest capacity. I have chosen an 85gr HP, 75gr HP, and 70gr Varm as my bullets of choice.
I have had 1 case fail on me at a top level (still under pub max). Blew the entire shoulder, neck, out... Looked like I had gold glitter come out the barrel, found brass shards in the muzzle brake, bottom half of the case looked like a jagged crown. Gummed up the gun something fierce, chamber, gas port, block, tube, BCG, muzzle brake, all took cleaning. Now I find a velocity I can get the bullet to expand at the max range I want to shoot a game animal at.
It is a wonderful caliber within reason. It is NOT a 243, and never will be.
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Originally Posted by red caddy 51
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Originally Posted by triehl27
Yep I agree its a great caliber. Brass is nice and cheap which is why im going with it lol. I traded my 18" 6x45 AR and am currently building one on the savage axis platform with a 22" barrel from jim at apache. Cant wait to take it yote hunting.
The more I read about the 6X45 the more I'm convinced I need to build one.
One more reason why we can never have enough gunsQuote:
Originally Posted by GaCop
COST COST COST...
I wanted a custom caliber, but I didn't want to be spending $1.00 a piece or more in brass, one caliber I considered was $4 a case for Once fired!
6x45 is .02 to .10 a case depending on how much prep I wanna do. Fully processed LC or WCC runs me .10 a case, while sorted commercial range brass is .02ea That right there is a huge cost savings.
6mm bullets can be found as blems for as little as $.10ea
Primers are $.03 or less
and $.06 worth of powder
So in total, 6x45 for my "Premium" plinking round with a Varmageddon bullet is .29ea.
My premium "Hunting" load, with a Sierra Game King, runs $.44ea.
Even cheapest Wolf .223 is at $.35ea. And here in WA, you can't hunt with .223.
Just a suggestion: After opening the necks of your brass to 6mm, anneal them. My dad had a 6mm TCU for his contender many years ago, and had an issue with necks splitting unless they were annealed.
For an easy, low budget annealer, get some 650F tempilaq and check out Skippy's annealer on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-C-i0Kr2jU
Would it be beneficial to anneal prior to opening up the neck?Quote:
Originally Posted by bedlamite
If they have already been fired a few times it couldn't hurt, but it's the sizing operation that work hardens the brass, and annealing after sizing is what's important.Quote:
Originally Posted by GaCop
http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
No sense wasting $ on a neck annealing machine..
Neck annealing with a candle:
https://www.google.ca/search?q=Neck+...m=122&ie=UTF-8
^ The truth will set us free! :-)...Welcome to the Brotherhood Nrut! I've been using the candle method since 2007 and never lost a case neck. But good luck selling the idea. OCD runs too deep when it comes to this subject! :-)
Amen to that! :tea:Quote:
Originally Posted by psharon97
On the other hand, why bother annealing when .223 brass is so cheap and sizing from 5.56 to 6mm is so slight? I had a 7mm TCU and never split a neck. I now have a 30-223 and have never split a neck as long as I lubed well when resizing the first time. To get them to 30 cal I just resize in the 7mmTCU die and then open them to 30 cal in a 300 Blackout die. I've used some pieces of brass 6-7 times without a problem.
For me, the attraction of the .223-based Wildcats is cheap brass that doesn't need particularly special treatment.
I agree with KLR. I have a 7mm TCU in a 14 inch Contender and will soon build a 6x45 on a Savage. The benefits of necking up cheap and plentiful .223 brass makes these cartridges a no brainer.
I'm really close to pulling the trigger on a 18" 6x45 build, either Savage or Rem-Age.
I'm thinking 2600-2650 with a 95gr TMK and 8208XBR based on what I've read on SnipersHide and AccurateShooter.