Long action bolt question.

Hey guys,
I'm not sure that I have a problem, but it just doesn't seem to be right to me. THe problem that I am seeing is when I close me bolt and lock it. I can then push forward on my bolt and move it about .010" or so. I am having a problem with the primers working back out of the casing slightly after firing a primed round. I had to replace the firing pin spring on my 7mag and was trying to get it adjusted as to not puncture the primer and have any flash back towards me! I'm not sure if my description will be accurate, but I'm really not confident about pulling the trigger on a live round at this point! Any assistance would be helpful.

I'm also wondering if there are two or three washer in the bolt head/locking lug assembly. Mine only has two, but a friend of mine with a savage 308 said he has three. I'm thinking that I may wanna replace the bolt head, locking lug, and the washer/shims up front. Just not sure where to go from here.
Thanks
Jason

Would recommend having your headspace checked by a qualified gunsmith, for starters. The bolt body itself may move when locked up, which is basically springing off the "wave" washer behind the bolt head.

Like you said, don't want a problem, so might be best to have it checked over before you start replacing parts. Might eliminate unnecessary part changes, as well as making sure it's safe to fire.

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Originally Posted by tacticalj

ce would be helpful.

I'm also wondering if there are two or three washer in the bolt head/locking lug assembly. Mine only has two, but a friend of mine with a savage 308 said he has three. I'm thinking that I may wanna replace the bolt head, locking lug, and the washer/shims up front. Just not sure where to go from here.
Thanks
Jason

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Washers? There should only be one, a spring washer between the baffle and bolt body or if it was relocated between the baffle and locking lugs.

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/o...ltParts2-1.jpg

..and the correct method to set the firing pin protrusion.
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...c,22691.0.html


Bill

Thanks for the info and link guys, guess maybe i'll have to get with my smith and see if he can check that or not. If he can't, then i'm not sure where i'll have to go because i live in nowhere Kansas! Maybe I should just send the whole dam thing to SSS!

Don't mean to hi-jack the thread. Mercy !! that bring's back memory's. You posted that same thread, almost, back when I first joined the forum Bill ::)

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Originally Posted by possum1

Don't mean to hi-jack the thread. Mercy !! that bring's back memory's. You posted that same thread, almost, back when I first joined the forum Bill ::)

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Yeah, I'm one of the "Old Goats" around this place. ;D

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Originally Posted by tacticalj

Maybe I should just send the whole dam thing to SSS!

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Not having the rifle "in hand" its tough to tell whats going on, the two and three washer thing ain't right for sure. Lacking the tools and experience sending it to Fred (SSS) might be the best option. Trust me on this too, just because a guy is a 'smith you can't count on him (her, it?) knowing Savage rifles either.

Bill

just because a guy is a 'smith you can't count on him (her, it?) knowing Savage rifles either. Got that right.

Very rare is the gunsmith that knows squat about Savage rifles. Most work on Remingtons and some Winchestrs or anything with a Mauser heritage. Most know nothing about Savages and really dont want to. Its like the mechanic that wouldnt change the oil or grease the fittings on my MGB. It wasnt a Chevy.

EL Lobo

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Originally Posted by tacticalj

I am having a problem with the primers working back out of the casing slightly after firing a primed round.

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I assume this means you are firing a case with nothing but a primer, no powder and no bullet right? I believe what you are seeing is normal. When firing a complete cartridge the force of the primer will back it out of then primer pocket slightly and then the pressure from the main powder charge reseats it. If there is no powder or bullet, there is nothing to reseat the primer.

BTW, this phenomenon is the reason pistol cartridges loaded with wax bullets and powered by only a primer have their flash holes drilled out well oversize.

I would have the headspace checked but the protruding primer by itself is not an indication it's excessive.

Any gunsmith should have go/no-go gages for the belted magnum family of cartridges and can check the headspace for you. He may not be expert on fixing it if it's a problem but he certainly can determine if it's correct.

i agree with cyder butt to check for youself yust buy a nogo gauge

Yes, buy a set of gauges for yourself....about 60 bucks....Cheaper than the smith and you keep the gauges...

Here's a cheap easy way to check your head space. http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...;topic=33528.0

Ok, again thanks for the info fellas.
Cycler you are correct, primed brass only. I did discuss the difference of a primed round and live round forcing the entire casing backward with a friend of mine, and we are no experts on savage but both own a few and have been very successful at diy mods to our rifles, and we decided that since there have been no major changes to the bolt that we would try strapping it to the bench on the lead sled and firing the rifle from a distance just to check a live round for primer relocation.

I went ahead and sent an email to SSS to be put on the list for the T&T job. Who knows I may even have install a new barrel while its there. I've always wanted a heavier barrel for the gun, because when you heat it up, it starts to walk around some! Besides that it couldn't hurt.

The only mod that has been made to the barrel is a 38 casing bolt lift kit and i did polish the baffle and head to see if it would help ease the tension on the bolt. I'm sure that SSS can easily determine the problem if any. I also figured that they could check the headspace on the gun, even if I did not have a barrel installed. I mentioned that in my email, but have not seen a reply from them yet.


My smith may not be an expert with savages, but he has always been good to me and more then helpful with any situaion that i have had. He is a friend and i trust his opinion

Tacticalj I don't know if you have seen it posted elsewhere but SSS is suspending gunsmith work for June and July so he can catch up. Do a search or look at one here and I think you will find a thread on homemade go gauge/no go, give it a look they work just as well,if you want to be sure fill the case with epoxy before you use it.

Yeah, i'm thinking that since the reciever and barrel have never been apart and are factory peices, the headspace is ok. I have found, since locking up a live round, that the problem doesn't exist there. I think what it happening is that it was late at night and my buddy and I were not paying enough attention or thinking about locking up a live round to see if it was the same.

Just FYI, the email I sent to SSS has not been answered yet, so I'm gonna have to try an call them to see if I can get on the waiting list! It could be a long one.

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Originally Posted by drybean

i agree with cyder-butt to check for youself yust buy a nogo gauge

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LOL bad day at the keyboard? If I text from my phone it looks like this. LOL

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Originally Posted by tacticalj

Thanks for the info and link guys, guess maybe i'll have to get with my smith and see if he can check that or not. If he can't, then i'm not sure where i'll have to go because i live in nowhere Kansas! Maybe I should just send the whole dam thing to SSS!

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where are you in Ks?

Independence to be exact.

an hour west of Wichita here