Can anyone tell me who makes the best neck turning tool and what sets it apart from the others? I'm interested in one for my .223.
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Can anyone tell me who makes the best neck turning tool and what sets it apart from the others? I'm interested in one for my .223.
This one:
http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/si...e_Case__22_cal
Ease of use, precise adjustment, and repeatability for multiple batches of brass. I have used 2 others before this one. This one is the bomb.
I've had no issues with my Lyman handheld turner. It functions very well for the $.
The K&M is the best of the two I've tried. The adjustment screw for setting cutting thickness is really great and the mandrels they use match up exactly with their (K&M's) corresponding caliber Expandiron neck expander. I use it with a power driver and a Lee caseholder.
If you get one, they make an attachment that goes on the back of the tool which sets the depth of cut so you can just nick the neck/shoulder junction.
I tried the Forster tool, but found that it is very difficult to maintain a consistent neck wall thickness......it will cut on the thin side as well as the thick side, instead of just cutting off the excess on te thick side - I usually ened up "overturning" the necks just to get them uniform. And they are tough on your hands.....
I usually F/L size with the expander button removed, leaving the neck OD small but consistent, then run over the expandiron to get the OD right for the turning operation, then trun the neck. Necks come out about as perferct as I can make them....
Elkbane
I 2nd the K&M
Thanks for your input. Looks like a Sinclair or K&M for me.
I like the K&M, easily adusted and easily adapted to my mini-lathe (love that power feed).
I have a new Sinclair set up for 223 but only tried one case, turning by hand. It adjusted and cut fine but because of its shape, not readily adapted to the lathe, I am going to put it on the board for sale as soon as I know how.
Moses
For a hand turner, another vote for the K&MQuote:
Originally Posted by RDBrian
Moses, try this setup in your lathe. You won't need to lube the necks and the mandrel won't heat up and change dimensions.
http://i31.tinypic.com/2hhkkgj.jpg
Bill
Bill
Nice set-up. Your right about not lubing (I use minimal on the mandrel) with no heat-up.
I had to take a quick picture of my set-up, I'm not doing any turning in the picture (no chips) just to show.
I find I can't control the finish size as well using my cross-slide so the K&M makes this easy.
I run about 300 rpm and the power feed makes a smooth cut.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...g/neckturn.jpg
Moses
Moses,
I use a positive stop on the cross slide and added a variable speed Oriental Motor drive on the lead screw so I can it run independent of the chuck speed. That way I can run the chuck speed up and keep the feed slow. I make the cut stopping just shy of the junction then hand feed the last little bit. Depending on the brass and how much I need to take off I may take two or three passes, the last against the stop. That way the finish is like a mirror and a consistent wall thickness.
Bill
Bill,
If you are still following this thread, from where and what kind of variable speed motor do you have for your lead screw? I have been looking for something off and on but never ran across anything.
Also, after looking at your set-up again it appears that the mandrel (tapered?) is driving the case, if so what kind of live center shell holder are you using in your tailstock?
I like the idea of being able to grind my own turning tools and this method lends itself to doing that.
Thanks,
Moses
The motor is made by Oriental Motor. They're small fractional variable speed and small enough not to get in the way. The mount is simply a piece of 1/4"" Lexan. I drilled and tapped the end of the lead screw, made a threaded stub shaft and used a flexible coupler to the motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by RDBrian
[img width=600 height=450]http://i48.tinypic.com/2ue4cwp.jpg[/img]
If I'm using the gear lead screw drive the motor just goes along for the ride.
The control is also made by OM. The motors are reversible, after boring something flip the switch and run the bit out. A handy feature at times. I bought the motor and control off Ebay then mounted the control in box from Radio Shack.
The mandrel(s) are turned straight .001"-.002" over the neck ID. To hold, press and remove the cases I used a old press ram turned to fit the tailstock on the mini's, a MT2 IIRC. Its been a few years! Using a old ram eliminated the need for a special holder , use regular shellholders and allows the cartridge to rotate when driven by the mandrel. The oversized mandrel provides enough tension to drive the cartridge and pushes the thicker brass to the outside to be turned off. Thats one advantage, the mandrel doesn't need to be undersized so the case can be rotated and the necks do not need to be sized prior. Simply turn the mandrel, and start turning necks. As time goes on you have a collection of mandrels in various diameters. Keep and mark them so they can be used again.
As I said I may take multiple passes depending on the brass. Sometimes it will only cut 1/3-1/2 around the neck the first pass since the thicker brass is on the outside. Since the cartridge rotates with the mandrel there is no need to use lube and no heat build up to change the mandrel dimensions. I'll use the power feed until I'm within a 1/16" or so of the shoulder, disengage the screw and finish the cut feeding by hand.
Once you get into a routine doing 40-50 pieces in a hour is easy and be consistent within .0005" of your target.
Bill
Thanks Bill, good information. Great idea using a press ram in the tailstock, I never considered that.
Hope I can find something about the Oriental Motor, I have often needed the finer feed.
Thanks again,
Moses
Ah, I'd like to say I'm schmart enough to say that turning arrangement was my idea, but alias I copied it from Mile Bryant and Jackie Schmidt. The the lead screw motor was Varmint Al's. My claim to fame was putting the two together!Quote:
Originally Posted by RDBrian
Its been awhile but I think OM has a website. If you look close the first two numbers on the motor (21) is the motor size. The gear boxes come in a lot of different ratios, straight and 90 degree angle drives. The box I used is a 18:1.
Bill