For those that have made switchbarrel rifles...

...do you have a single barrel nut and switch out only the barrel re-headspacing every time?

The reason I ask is I got to thinking (sometimes a dangerous thing), other switch-barrel rifles use a shoulder on the barrel cut to set the headspace and torque the barrel to the same spec every time keeping the headspace constant. Is there a reason that the same couldn't be done with a Savage by using the nut as the shoulder and pinning or silver soldering it to the barrel to permanently set headspace?

I'm looking to build a pair of switch-barrel Savages. I have the basis for one in a left handed .243 on an older long action. I will be buying a model 10 package gun (with Accu-Trigger at Wally World for a really good price) in .308 as the basis for the other. These two rifles will provide both of my sporter barrels. I will then build up the model 10 into a bench gun with longer, heavier match type barrels in probably .308 and .243 AI. I'd like them to be true switch barrels and not a headspace every time deal if at all possible.

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Have several barrel nuts and use them interchangeably without thought.


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Originally Posted by helotaxi

...do you have a single barrel nut and switch out only the barrel re-headspacing every time?

The reason I ask is I got to thinking (sometimes a dangerous thing), other switch-barrel rifles use a shoulder on the barrel cut to set the headspace and torque the barrel to the same spec every time keeping the headspace constant. Is there a reason that the same couldn't be done with a Savage by using the nut as the shoulder and pinning or silver soldering it to the barrel to permanently set headspace?

I'm looking to build a pair of switch-barrel Savages. I have the basis for one in a left handed .243 on an older long action. I will be buying a model 10 package gun (with Accu-Trigger at Wally World for a really good price) in .308 as the basis for the other. These two rifles will provide both of my sporter barrels. I will then build up the model 10 into a bench gun with longer, heavier match type barrels in probably .308 and .243 AI. I'd like them to be true switch barrels and not a headspace every time deal if at all possible.

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Just red loctite the barrel nut on the barrel effectively making a shoulder that will repeat each time.

Sounds like an interesting idea, but I'm not sure what the advantage would be. After screwing on the new barrel you'd certainly want the check the headspace anyway (by whatever bizarre method you choose...I'm old fashioned...I use headspace gauges.)

I think that to make it work you'd want a more secure method of attaching the barrel nut like silver solder or pin it and then have good visible reference marks on the receiver and barrel nut.

uj

It should work fine. Some of the LocTite formulations hold awfully strong. Would you use several recoil lugs, too?
On mine, there's a cheapie paint job done by the PO which let's me toss a headspace gauge or even a cartridge in, then spin down on it, & back off to the paint marks as a witness.

headspace? huh MARK25-06

all the parts would have to be the same, no changing recoil lug or receiver as you buy more guns.

The "PAIR" of rifles is your weak point. If you fitted your shortest action with a recoil lug ground to space the nuts the same as the other action. If you ever decide to true the actions after "fixing" your barrel nuts, everything changes.

And the dims would change over time anyway (as you screwed the barrrel in and tightened it a hundred times or so you would cause some wear/crush).

The points above are what makes LocTite an attractive option. If/when changes of the type listed occur, break the LocTite loose and re-do where you need it.

It is so easy to do it right by setting the headspace each time, I dont think you gain anything by fixing the barrel nut in place on a barrel.

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Originally Posted by Blue Avenger

all the parts would have to be the same, no changing recoil lug or receiver as you buy more guns.

The "PAIR" of rifles is your weak point. If you fitted your shortest action with a recoil lug ground to space the nuts the same as the other action. If you ever decide to true the actions after "fixing" your barrel nuts, everything changes.

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I think that you misunderstood. At no point would barrels be used on multiple guns. Each receiver would have its own recoil lug and its own set of barrels. The headspace would be set at the time of the initial assembly on that receiver and then fixed in place. Assuming that excessive torque was never used, witness marks might even be usable instead of a torque wrench on the barrel nut wrench.

The whole point is to save the hassle of tearing the bolt down to check the headspace every time I wanted to change calibers.

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The whole point is to save the hassle of tearing the bolt down to check the headspace every time I wanted to change calibers.

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Since you don't have to tear the bolt down to headspace (I never do), your whole theory is moot!

You should remove the ejector from the bolt to keep it from affecting the headspace measurement. If you're going to bother checking you should do it right.

Since mine is a single shot, I have the ejector ground flush with the bolt face. I have no problem getting the correct headspace with the ejector working normally either. Think about it, it will be there when you use the rifle. You screw the barrel down firmly on the go gage anyway, and it compresses the ejector. It's no big deal

I never remove the ejector either. If it is not right with he ejector in, then it isnt right.

Thought about putting set screws in the nut but have since found that the barrels play musical actions way too much to make it practicle. There are three Savages that actualy have the writing where its suppose to be :o