Printable View
All,
I was curious why it is recommended you take the ejector and extractor off the bolt while doing the head spacing portion of a barrel swap with your go/no-go gauges. One would think they could stay put since the ejector pin would simply push in and the extractor would simply go around the bottom of the gauge. Please enlighten me. Thank you!
Ejector only
thank you, but again...what is the purpose to remove this if when you go to headspace it will be pushed in flush anyways?Quote:
Originally Posted by daniel87
If not removing extractor, make sure extractor is going over rim of gauge, if extractor does not go over gauge head space will be excessive. Simple check is to pull bolt to rear, if extractor comes with it, things are good.
My understanding is that this is insurance that the base of the gauge will be flush with the bolt face.
there is no physical reason. I've never stripped the heads on any of mine, no issues. One of them is now a pressure tester.
This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ same here
One of the things I've seen mentioned about the ejector is that it pushes the case "sideways" in the chamber?? If it actually does, you've got big problems and are in need of a new barrel anyway.
Never have stripped a bolt head to set headspace. (only swapped about a dozen or so) Drop the case in the chamber and close the bolt. The ejector rod is pushed back flush anyway. Open it and if the case is attatched to the bolt head, you're good to go. Same with firing pins. The bolt is cocked and the pin is below flush. Why remove it??
I have never stripped the bolt. No problems.
Never stripped the bolthead and never had a problem. Just never got in a hurry.
Just a precaution but ymmvQuote:
Originally Posted by daniel87
The gunsmith I use says he removes both so that he gets a better feel for setting the headspace and whether the no go is binding.
You don't set the headspace by "feel" on a Savage, maybe on a Remington.
I have only installed a handfull of barrels, but the difference between GO and NO-GO is not nuanced. The bolt either closed or it didn't.
With regards to "feel. If you get the barrel screwed in, and you have installed the go gauge, screw the barrel in until it stops. I have never had on not slip past the extractor when the barrel is screwed in to where it stops. From there it is loosen a few thousands and match mark the barrel and action with a pencil or sharpie. Snug and test, tighten watching your marks. Test with no go before you do the final wrench. So easy a Savage Smith can do it.
+2!Quote:
Originally Posted by darkker