Aftermarket Recoil lug and nut question

I am currently finalizing my parts list for my latest build. I have built 3 savages to date. On all of my previous savages I have purchased a precision ground recoil lug and nut. I am just wondering how much this truly does help. I am not trying to cheap out on this one but, if a precision recoil lug and a factory nut is going to yield the same accuracy then why spend the extra $30? I was just wondering what others opinions are on this particular subject.I was kind of leaning towards just purchasing a lug and going with the factory nut. If this negates the purpose then I will just go ahead and spend the extra money.

I think the recoil lug is worth the money... assures recoil is directed straight back and true to the rear without any sliding off-center.

As I see it, though, the nut does nothing more than keep the barrel tightened down and locked in place. The factory nut accomplishes this just fine. Anything more is pure overkill.

Having said that, I also appreciate the beauty of true craftsmanship and can see why others would like a precision nut on their rifle, but I cannot believe (unlike the precision ground, heavy duty recoil lug) it will make the rifle shoot any better.

Having trued surfaces that are perpendicular and parallel may or may not improve accuracy but if you are changing ranges then you will need to maintain scope/sight to barrel axial relationship so you can dial in windage and elevation accurately. Or even holdover. There is no doubt that a ground recoil lug and a trued action and nut will help maintain that relationship. Close tolerance threads at the barrel action make a difference as well.

Well, there's room for SOME doubt the barrel nut helps with that "relationship" thing. :)

Lets hear it...I am willing to learn.

Well i already said it. I doubt a trued nut can help accuracy. It does not do anything but prevent the barrel from loosening (spinning free) from the action. There isnt much pressure there pushing against the lug or action. I think you could purposely put a grain of sand sized bead of metal between it and the lug and tighten it down and it would not affect accuracy. To me, its like "the princess and the pea" test.

I am saying there is doubt there, but not regarding the other parts mentioned.

You can have a trued nut but unless your threads on the barrel and nut are a perfect match the nut will not matter. If you can spin the nut on the barrel and it has any play at all and i do mean any play then all you really need on the nut is a nice flat surface to go up against the lug.

The nut serves one purpose, like Foxx said, it is nothing more than a jam nut. If you need a jam nut to jam, and prevent movement, use factory. If you need a jam nut to have tolerances in the millionths of an inch, that's fine; but I better not ever see you use any hardware store nuts and bolts on your boat trailer....:cool:

So the recoil lug is a mod worth doing then? Where you buy one and can you install yourself?

If you have a good bed job one lug is as good as the other How can it move. Sales hype.

Going to be putting my rifle into a xlr element chassis. So I have no idea how that's going to come.

Get a recoil lug from Sharp Shooter Supply or Northland Shooters Supply. THey both make good ones. Midway, brownell's etc. often sell Sharp Shooter Supply products like that.

The only way to install them is if you have the tools and know-how to remove the barrel. If you don't, I doubt it is worth paying anyone to do it for you.

In fact, unless I was already removing the barrel for some other reason, I wouldn't bother doing it myself.

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Originally Posted by Arky 223

If you have a good bed job one lug is as good as the other How can it move. Sales hype.

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A proper bedding job does not anchor the recoil lug to the stock. There is supposed to be some float on the sides of the recoil lug. If there is any cant to the right or left, that lug will slide in that direction at least as much as the "float" allows it. Also, if the lug is not perfectly square and "plumb", the force of recoil will push the lug to the side somehow, even if the lug is not floated, force will still be applied to the side.. As an extreme example, picture a wedge getting pushed not from the back end, but from the side across from the incline... the wedge will slip/slide (or at least apply force unevenly) against the sloped / inclined surface. Ideally, you want all the force of recoil to be applied straight back against a truly flat surface.

It's not hype. Because of the particular application (short range hunting, maybe?) the shooter might not need the precision a trued lug can give, but it's certainly not hype.

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Originally Posted by darkker

The nut serves one purpose, like Foxx said, it is nothing more than a jam nut. If you need a jam nut to jam, and prevent movement, use factory. If you need a jam nut to have tolerances in the millionths of an inch, that's fine; but I better not ever see you use any hardware store nuts and bolts on your boat trailer....:cool:

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All I can say is if you have a nut that the face is not perpendicular when you tighten it the barrel will deflect and will be in a different axis than the action. A couple of indicators will verify this. I had one that threw the barrel out .055. Machined it and it was down to .004. If the scope mount holes are inline with the action and the barrel is not, that is a problem at variable distance shooting. If that is good for you I'm OK with that. Don't try and use it in a tactical match or long range hunting and expect to finish high.

^^^ But how in the heck can a nut put so much pressure against the lug that you are actually bending the barrel at the shank? Personally, I don't tighten them that much. Just snug it up so the dang thing won't work loose. Nah, I don't see it causing the condition you describe.

I mean, obviously if the barrel is not true to the action you'll have problems. But the barrel nut driving it askew??? I don't see it.

I do use trued nuts, sometimes, by the way. Just don't think I need to.

I think a ground recoil lug is more essential than a trued nut, but I don't think you can go wrong by doing both. My .243 has the original nut and it's a hammer. The factory lug was so warped it was crazy!

I'm with Foxx, and asked a "name" here to defend this notion before.
If the nut is so cheap and dimensionally flawed, with the ability to deflect the barrel: how completely soft is the receiver??!! And if assembled such that you have pulled the receiver threads from the factory, simply buying a Precision nut won't fix the problems of a soft receiver with pulled threads.

If someone can explain that, or the theory of deflection with some measurements to me, if love to hear.

Well, I'm from the camp of "it sure doesn't hurt". Its kinda sorta like weighing powder charges +/- .02grs. Does it matter? Probably and most likely not but it sure doesn't hurt.

Actions, lugs and nuts? I square the receiver ring and nut face to their threads and use a flat surface ground lug. Why, I dunno, I don't have a lick of proof it helps one way or the other, but for the minimal cost and time involved.......

Me's think'ens on the subgect!!!!

Bill

Perfectly reasonable Bill.

I only see an advantage for the recoil lug. However, there must be some reason for action blue printing.

Part of that is making sure your barrel stays true to the action. A crooked nut could put uneven pressure on the barrel.

That's just what could happen though. I doubt there is any real hard evidence it could make a difference to the extent to deem it worth it. I did it simply because I hated that smooth ugly nut that my gun came with and I was swapping barrels any ways.

^^^ right. Time and true an action for optimal performance. Straight, rifled barrels of the correct caliber help, too. ;)

If you have the time and tools and skill to make EVERY part true and square, (and purty), do so. :)

Truing the face of the barrel nut won't help it shoot any better, though. Hah!

Who really gives a c*ap? LOL!