have setup need dies

Hi,

Deposit down on a 10-flcp-sr in 308 and I need to order a die set.

I currently reload 9MM and 223 so I have the basics but now I need the specifics for the 308.

I am going to need to single load when I shoot hi-power. These rounds will be built to the chamber rather than the magazine. Others will be built to the magazine.

At least this is what I do with my 223. But like I said this 308 is a new animal and maybe the chamber length will fit in the mag., I don't know.

I have a supply of factory ammo so I can have my own supply of fire formed brass to reload.

I still need to order the base and scope so this isn't likely to be shot the day after delivery.

My everyday range goes out to 200 so that'll be my zero.

I figure it's good to have a plan. We'll see how that works out.

I want to do this correctly from day 1 so feel free to offer your suggestions.

Thanks, mj52

Low end but still useful, especially the collet die:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/673...308-winchester

Higher end:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/271...ProductFinding
..plus the appropriate shell holder and bushings

BN, thank you.

I've only full length resized for semi-auto weapons and now with this bolt action I believe i have different options.

I can reload to SAAMI and shoot this reload out of any 308 or I can reload for a specific rifle.

I'm going to reload to my specific chamber.

I'm not really sure of what to do with this small pile of fire formed brass and I'll have this confusion until I've actually made up and fired my first dozen or so reloads.

I imagine I'm going to need to make up my first test round - NO PRIMER OR POWDER - just to make sure it cycles through the rifle.

I imagine I'll need to neck size in order for the case to have enough tension to actually hold the bullet.

How is this done?

Watching the videos is fine and dandy but an explanation would probably fill in the blanks.

Thanks, mj52

if your just starting out reloading and are on a budget id suggest you buy a full length sizing die and set it up to just bump the shoulders back a little that will do every thing you need in one stroke then just chamfer the insides of your necks. you can then start researching precision reloading and figure out how far you want to go with it.

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Originally Posted by LongRange

if your just starting out reloading and are on a budget id suggest you buy a full length sizing die and set it up to just bump the shoulders back a little that will do every thing you need in one stroke then just chamfer the insides of your necks. you can then start researching precision reloading and figure out how far you want to go with it.

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+1 on everything LR said. You could do this with the full length die that's included with the Lee set. Or, you could just use the collet die to deprime and resize the necks only until chambering becomes tight, then use the full length die to bump back the shoulder. You can adjust the F/L die out such that it only resizes the case enough to fit your chamber's headspace, -1 or 2 thousandths. This is where you want to be.
If your budget isn't restricted, I'd recommend the Redding dies though. The micrometer seater is really worth the extra $$ in my opinion. And you can buy the Lee Collet die by itself for around $20, and it's worth every cent. Then you can do as I outlined above, and use the Redding full length die when necessary.

For the mid-price range, I like these:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/395...ProductFinding
And this
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/164...ProductFinding

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/935...308-winchester

RH thanks,

I'm not new to reloading. BUT I am new to reloading for a bolt action.

I'm used to full length resizing, annealing, trimming to length, cleaning primer pocket, clearing flash hole, weighing cases, priming, charging cases for accuracy rather than max fps, seating bullet to best depth whether for loading one at a time or magazine feeding.

BUT I've never reloaded for a bolt action and the fact I don't automatically everytime need to full length resize means i need to learn a new way of doing things. A new way of knowing when a case needs to be fulll size resized rather than just neck sized or bump sized.

I'm not sure how to neck size but it is something I'm going to need to know. I have no idea what bump sizing accomplishes and when I need to use it.

It seems like full length is the easy way out - no fuss, no mess - but if I can learn the proper way to neck and bump size I'll have 3 different solutions.

Found brass must be full length but my own fire formed brass might be better brass if I learn how to massage it rather than hammer it.

Thanks, mj52

like i said you need to decide how far you want to go with your loading because it WILL turn into a part time job. i have used most if not all methods of reloading. yes full length sizing is the easy way but will also keep you ammo consistent and consistency is a key factor in precision. neck sizing uses a bushing to size the NECK ONLY....a bump die sizes the neck and bumps the shoulder back as the shoulder moves forward from repeat firings ...but at some point after a few firings your going to have to FL resize so why not just do it every time and eliminate the added dies and steps...like i said set your FL die up to just bump the shoulders back .001 to .003 and your set....buy a nice full length die and seater die and your good to go.

just to give you an idea of how much goes into precision loading ill give you a run down of how i load and prep brass...

starting with new brass...i trim the necks then outside neck turn...uniform the primer pockets...deburr and uniform the flash holes...weigh cases with H2O...stainless steel tumble...full length resize...chamffer inside and outside necks load hot and fire form.

fired brass...deprime...stainless steel tumble...full length resize...trim necks...chamffer inside and outside necks and load...i anneal every second firing. a lot of ppl are going to say all this is not necessary and i agree and disagree at the same time as it all boils done to how far YOU want to chase accuracy but just remember that the smallest inconsistency in your hand loads can and will cause inconsistency in accuracy down range and leave you wondering WTF happened to the 2nd shot or the 5th shot...remove ALL inconsistencies in your brass and loads and that leaves one factor...the shooter....and thats a fact....this is all assuming YOU and YOUR RIFLE are up to par.

the next thing is tools...and as started above and way to many times lol...how far you want to go is up to you.

Lee collet, and redding body die as needed is my favorite combo

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Originally Posted by Luke45

Lee collet, and redding body die as needed is my favorite combo

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This works well also...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Luke45

Lee collet, and redding body die as needed is my favorite combo

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agreed and will produce very accurate ammo.

I use the Lee Ultimate 4 die set and have only used the collet neck sizing die. I’m very new to reloading, and .308 is the only round I’ve loaded so far, so my experience is very limited. Every 20 or 30 rounds or so, I will get a round that will not chamber. Had one yesterday that I had to use a cleaning rod to get the bullet out. Whether I did not use enough pressure when resizing or if it needs FL resizing, I don’t know. Have not got the FL die out yet. All my reloads are once fired in my rifle, which is a Hog Hunter.

Using the collet neck sizing die for finding your lands works very well. Just adjust the die a tad bit and run it thru the die as many times as you need to get that perfect tension on the bullet.

I use a RCBS full length set a Lee collet die for everything .308 related. Unless you need to win benchrest matches there is no need to over think it.

Gary, are you trimming the brass after sizing it? I would full length resize, then trim & chamfer the necks, then seat the bullets to slightly less than chamber length or magazine length, whichever is shorter. After that, then the collet sizer gets used.