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Stevens 200 in .243, owned the gun for about 6 months. Accuracy is ok but think it could be better. Barrel feels like it has a few rough spots and fouls pretty easily.
Not looking for a miracle but think this system may help. Have read many good reviews and a couple negative ones.
Anyone here had any experience with this kit? Good impressions, bad?
I JUST GOT ONE A MONTH AGO.IT SHOOTS 87 GR. V-MAX .500 GROUPS ALL DAY MARK25-06
If it works, please let us know. I would like to try one myself.
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Mark25-06- what was your rifle shooting before you used the Tubbs system?
My Brother just did his CZ. He says it "helped"...... But now he is selling the gun.
My 200 in 243; REFUSED to shoot anything lighter than 70 gr. but was magic above that.
A friend that I shoot with from work just did this on his .264 Wby mag. he was having problems with occasional flyers and after trying a bunch of other stuff thought he'd do this.
he ran the whole kit, shot all the bullets that came with it. His after action review was that it didn't seem to help accuracy any, but two things happened that were interesting:
1) it does seem to stay cleaner longer, he can shoot longer strings w/o cleaning
2) it now takes more powder to get to his previous velocity. it seems the barrel is smoother with less friction.
he said he'd do it again but might only shoot a couple of each grit, and not all of them.
".....on his .264 Wby mag."
Tell him to hang on to that. It's a pretty rare rifle.
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From everything I have read using Tubbs is like taking up to 1000 shots out of your barrels life.
Me I would rather shoot it for that 1000 rounds and enjoy it that much more, after shooting it for a while it will clean up by itself.
Just shoot it.
I love tubbs final finish and yes in the 204 I had to go up .2grs to keep the fps the same
barrels clean so much easier after treatment
used 204,223,243,308,30-06 all with good to great results
goneballistic, your buddy's rifle sound's like a bedding issue. I'd only use Tubbs Final Finish as a last resort on a working man's salary. Borescope a factory barrel, then borescope a handlapped one. I'd find that tight spot and polish it by hand and be happy with it , knowing it's a factory barrel. I polish my Krieger every 200-300 rounds, 1700+ rounds later it shoots mega tight. The TFF does work, but expect loss of barrel life.
WAS GOING TO USE IT IN MY SAVAGE 243 HAD ?'S CALLED THEM THEY ASKED Y SAID VERY HARD TO CLEAN AFTER A FEW SHOTS HE ASKED HOW IT SHOOTS TOLD THEM SHOT UNDER AN INCH HE SAID SEND IT BACK DO NOT USE IT IF I DID SAID WOULD SHOOT WORSE 2 TO 3 INCH RANGE HE SAID PRODUCT IS ONLY FOR NEW RIFELS WITH ROUGHT BORS SO IF YOUR GUN SHOOTS DONT USE IT oops sorry about caps lock forgot was on
Keep shooting AND cleaning your rifle. Running abrasives on anything metal only shortens the life.
The rough spots you feel are carbon rings, rough spots in the rifling, or copper buildup. Two of the three can be helped with agressive cleaning. Would not hesitate to use JB's non imbedding bore paste on this barrel.
Use a cleaner to get the carbon out. Then use another cleaner to get the copper out. Then...use the carbon cleaner again...followed by the copper cleaner. Continue to do this until your barrel is clean. Carbon and copper layer on top of each other. If you don't get the entire layer of either off, just continues to buildup.
Would HIGHLY recommend taking your cleanning supplies to the range with you. Barrels are a LOT easier to clean when warmed up. ALWAYS double check your bore when cleaning at the range. Cleaning rod, patch, jag, etc....will REALLY ruin your day.
I used final finish on a Ruger 30-06 stainless that would not shoot any handload under 1.5" and most groups were 2" to 3". I was not happy with this rifle. I used the entire 50 bullet pack as a last chance for a fix before sending it off for a new barrel so I had nothing to lose but the cost of the kit. The kit worked and my first load tried afterward went under 1" which I am happy with - this is a hunting rifle only. Before trying final finish I had restocked it with a HS Precision stock and put on a timney trigger so I pretty much knew the problem was the barrel. The barrel cleans up much easier since using the kit. I never checked velocity before and after. Bottom line: the kit saved me the cost of a new barrel. I would use it again if I couldn't get a rifle to shoot and was at the point of re-barreling. Oh yea, using the whole kit did move the throat forward a little but I forget how far. If I find the number I'll post it.
I used a set on a couple of rifles.
One was a 6.8 spc I wanted to loosen up to run some super hot loads through it.
That was one of the old cardinal barrels. Some had tight bores.
I never could tell that it made any difference with pressure.
The other was a problem barrel. It cut the groups in half.
I would only shoot tubbs FF bullets through a rifle that had a problem.
243 is a hot round anyway and it will just shorten the barrel life.
Used Tubb's FF on my 10FP 308. Fouling and flyers before, one hole shooter now. Did not use the coarser rounds. I think it came with 5 different grits, but I only used the 3 finer grades.
Made a world of difference in my rifle. Don't be afraid of what you hear from those who have never used it.
I did it on my new fcp here is the link
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...c,20879.0.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxima2
Finally found the "before" throat measurements but couldn't find "after final finish" measurements. So, I picked new bullets from same lot #'s I used before and took new "after Final Finish" measurements. Bottom line: using the whole kit moved the throat .050" with Nosler Partition Gold 150 grain bullets and .030" with Remington 150 grain soft points.
Your "after" dimensions prove that you cut your barrel life in half (at least the throat). It would still be possible to have the barrel set back and re-chambered.