Muzzel velocity question

I have a muzzel velocity question, I have a savage model 11vt in .243 22" barrel & twist is 9.25/" . I am shooting hand loads that a buddy reloads for me that are grouping fantastic when I do my job at 300yards. My question is what is the velocity of the rounds. Heres the specs 35.5grs of varget behind an 87g vmax out of mixed cases hornady and federal w winchester primers that have been shot through my rifle once previously. can anyone help me figuring this out? I do not have access to a chronograph. Although I can calibrate a round if the oal is needed or any other information is needed. Thanks in advance guys im trying to get my balistic chart nailed down to be able to taylor to my rifle.
Cody

My books suggest you are in the 3000-3050 fps neighborhood.

When you can afford it, I'd invest in a chronograph. I started using one 10 years ago and now I can't get along without it. Book velocities are a ball park figure at best. So many things come into play figuring drop/windage tables, ie, altitude, temp and relative humidity.

Burr thank you for the ball park
Gacop I haven't looked into them yet but I will thanks guys

Figure your drop chart by shooting at known distances and write them down , then you will have actual data and not computerized guesses. Do not rely on an app, they will get you close but are seldom spot on especially if you do not have all the correct inputs for the program like muzzle velocity and actual BC not the advertised number. How far are you trying to go?

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Originally Posted by GaCop

When you can afford it, I'd invest in a chronograph. I started using one 10 years ago and now I can't get along without it. Book velocities are a ball park figure at best. So many things come into play figuring drop/windage tables, ie, altitude, temp and relative humidity.

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Have to play devil's advocate on all things chronograph so..........
Book data is a guesstimate at best........
Chronographs are an expensive educated guesstimate.......the cheep ones are not accurate and the expensive one are unnecessary.
.
Zero your rifle at 100.
Run a ballistics program based on best guess (book velocity) and shoot out to max available range, adjust as needed. Should only take a couple shots.
Document the REAL elevation correction necessary for a TRUE zero at that range and your environmental conditions.
Go change the environmental conditions in the program to mach REALITY. Then change velocity in the program to match the REAL elevation correction you already confirmed.
Compensate for different environmental conditions as they change and the rest is gravy...........
All mine are done this way.
It just flat out works, cheep easy and proven. I'll put my dope up against anyone's chronograph theory any day and the best they can hope for is a tie.

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Originally Posted by D.ID

Have to play devil's advocate on all things chronograph so..........
Book data is a guesstimate at best........
Chronographs are an expensive educated guesstimate.......the cheep ones are not accurate and the expensive one are unnecessary.
.
Zero your rifle at 100.
Run a ballistics program based on best guess (book velocity) and shoot out to max available range, adjust as needed. Should only take a couple shots.
Document the REAL elevation correction necessary for a TRUE zero at that range and your environmental conditions.
Go change the environmental conditions in the program to mach REALITY. Then change velocity in the program to match the REAL elevation correction you already confirmed.
Compensate for different environmental conditions as they change and the rest is gravy...........
All mine are done this way.
It just flat out works, cheep easy and proven. I'll put my dope up against anyone's chronograph theory any day and the best they can hope for is a tie.

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Well said and i agree....i did the same for a long time using shooter...i do own 2 chronys now and i do use one of them because its pretty close with ballistic AE.

D.id that is my plan but I wanted to get a ball park number to start with first so I can then modify to be accurate. These are the first reloads ive used an app for all the rest have been factory loads.

Short term goal is to beable to know where im at from 0-300 and beable to go back n forth. I could do it with my old scope n factory loads but I am now dialing in a new scooe n reloads.
Long term goal is p dog hunting out to as far as possible. If I ever get a chance to take a trip out west.

But for the most part I just like to be accurate and know where im going to be without doubt if I do my part behind the scope

Having a chrony, even a cheap one, is always a good idea. Pick one up from MW for about $100... I would say do both. Run the computer "dope" and then use that as the basis for the actual. Out to 300 you may be a few inches off; but normally if you are reloading consistent rounds (hence why the Chrony is a good idea, gives you a pretty good picture of what your consistency is) at 300 its not going to be enough to make you miss minute of deer; P-dogs are a different story but like you said that's a long term goal. After using the Chrony to ballpark then what D.id said is absolutely true; no computer can 100% accurately predict exactly what is going to happen with each projectile as it exits your muzzle; practical knowledge gained by practice at that range will.

$100 chrony is a waist of a $100.
Screw ballpark and then repeat and then true.
A $100 chrony is not consistent enough to test ES over or establish a true velocity.
A decent ballistics computer can put you spot on if your inputs are spot on. If you get real data with fewer rounds as described earlier "ballparking" or refining is unnecessary.
Forget round and round, cut to it..........dope it at 100, 500 and 1K. True velocity, true BC and real adjustments in your scope as they relate to each other.
After that if you can't shoot inside the accuracy potential of the rifle and your own wind call.........It aint the computers fault.

Get a magnetospeed and it is the simplist to use as it straps to the barrel. You don't have to line up anything and get your velocity etc instantly and never have to shoot the chrono itself and have to replace anything.

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Originally Posted by jonbearman

Get a magnetospeed and it is the simplist to use as it straps to the barrel. You don't have to line up anything and get your velocity etc instantly and never have to shoot the chrono itself and have to replace anything.

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I second that!
Although mine DID slide down the barrel on my 300WinMag when I wasn't paying attention and the gases from the muzzle brake shredded the strap.