Caliber Swap .270 Win to .223 Rem

I know the barrel swap portion of this is really simple, for the most part... but the bolt head swap is what has me asking questions.

I remember reading on here a long time ago about how to do it but for the life of me cannot find the thread or post. I got another Axis (.270) off my brother in law for $180. I have recently wanted to build a small "scout" rifle for fun and decided on .223 so that I have ammo from my AR that is usable. SO I need to learn how to swap the bolt head haha

Thanks
Rick

Edit: Did find some information in the FAQ but will a 110 bolt head fit for purposes intended?

From http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...xis-Bolt-Heads, Axis uses a short action bolt head, so you would need a short action 223 bolt face.

The 110 long actions (NOT Axis) have different lug sizes than the short action from what I have seen.

You would also need a .223 Mag, spring and follower.

Rosco, I should have added I know about the magazine difference. Not a big deal, those are easily acquired. Thanks for the reminder though :)

Pdcullen, where would one find such a bolt face? I know Eabco offers a conversion service but I bet I could do it much cheaper if I just had the parts.

Interesting question which may purely be opinion and personal preference... is it worth swapping to .223 or could I stay in .270, cut barrel to 20", slap on irons (possible thread and custom brake) ?
Rick

You can purchase the bolt head along with the extractor and ejector kit, if you want to keep the other one intact, from GunShack.com. Just ordered a .223. bolt head myself for a build, and communication, shipping and packing were good.

So what are you trying to do exactly with this rifle? Just curious because, if you need a trainer gun with low cost ammunition, and some occasional varmint shooting the .223 would be the way to go. If not, and you want to take it out for some deer hunting then stick with .270. Just all depends.

As for the threading you are not going to be to be able to do that with the standard Axis Sporter barrel. You would need to upgrade to one that has enough meat at the muzzle to take the threads for a break or can.

Never mind, it looks like it has already been said!

Rosco,

Essentially, something short, light and handy. Bolt action, box magazine.. "typical" scout build. Not looking for super long range, but at least 200 yards for occasional varmint and MAYBE deer. I have access to other firearms that can do that job very well so it's not an absolute. Living in Central PA, it's not often you find yourself long expanses of range and if you do, it's usually on purpose.

If I hacked the barrel to 20" on the .270 there should be plenty of meat for 1/2x28 if not I would definitely have to rethink everything. If I switch to .223 as currently planned I could go as low as 16 or 18 inches and have plenty of threading room.

Optimally

.223
18" Barrel
Threaded with Flash Hider (later a can)
Irons and low power scope.

If I kept .270 it'd be 20" minimal with a small brake. These are my imaginary builds as I ponder my budgeted options lol this isn't something I NEED. It's more or less a toy or truck gun in a way.

I have a 6.8 spc 20 barrel which I have earmarked for that exact use; I found a LA before a SA action so I am putting the 6.8 on the back burner. I shoot the 6.8 in an AR and I really like that round for practice, and for my hunting needs. I can shoot all day no pain/fatigue. 5.56 is not leagal where I live for deer.

.223/5.56 is legal but slightly frowned upon, for deer that is. They could care less for varmints, pretty much anything goes. My AR is chambered for 5.56 so having a bolt rifle in .223 and a surplus of .223 laying around helps me when I want to shoot something a little more slow pace

I don't think either of those scenarios would work. Here's why, most muzzle break manufactures specify a minimum barrel outer diameter based on caliber. Most would like to see .875 and above for brakes ranging from 1/2x28 on up. A few will do special orders in the .730 range, but I have not heard of anyone going below that number. I checked my 7mm-08 and .243 going about 8 inches back on the barrel and the OD was right around .69-.70 on both. So assuming your .270 is the same ballpark, it still wouldn't meet the requirements. Not saying this can't be done, I just don't know of anyone that has.

I like your .223 idea, and if I was doing this on a budget I would look at getting a take-off or used threaded Hog Hunter barrel in .223. You see them on the forums quite often for around $125-$135. This would give you the iron sights AND the threads for a break ,all-in-one, and the barrel length is only 20'' so that would work pretty well. Albeit not the 18'' barrel but close. Then get yourself a Ross Schuler break for $45.00 and goto town!!

Never thought about a Hog Hunter Barrel... That's a pretty good idea. As far as the threading job goes for the .270, I thought that so long there was enough material for the actual threads to be machined into, that it was good to go. Do you know the reasoning behind needing almost an inch thick piece for threading? Because, to me, no matter how thick the piece is, you have to turn it down to get the appropriate diameter for the threads... so all the extra material is behind the threaded portion of barrel. Just something I never knew and still don't lol

I will keep an eye out for the Hog Hunter barrels, thanks for the idea! 20" with irons and threaded already is better than paying $200 locally to have cut, threaded and crowned.. not refinished and only to have 18" length

Keep in mind that you are playing a lottery with the HH barrels, the sights are added at the factory after head spacing on the action it ships with. Low odds on the barrel head spacing on a different action with the sights at 12. See this thread: http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...-barrel-change

Well let me eat my words...kinda. Seems for the most part I was correct about the preferred industry standard muzzle diameter BUT I wanted to make sure so earlier I emailed Ross Schuler (a muzzle break specialist) . He stated that he has done breaks on diameters as small as .600 depending on the caliber. So I very well could be incorrect that you could not cut the barrel down and have it done. You should email him and ask. Just google his name and his webpage will come up.

Cullen, that had never cross my mind... I presume they are drilled, tapped and screwed in place, and not something I could heat, remove and resolder afterwards?

Rosco,

I have some machining background under my belt so I know how to do it and what it requires but I have no gunsmithing background so I am not sure what the requirements are for pressures, forces enacted by the cartridge going off. So I was sure that I could have been wrong in my thinking that "so long there is material for the threads, the job can be done"

Yes, drilled and tapped 6-48 like the sight mounts.

While probably a great value for the barrel, work and effort to properly place the sights may make it a little prohibitive... :(