Printable View
I'm going to buy a Vortex Viper PST for one of my rifles. They aren't out yet so I can't play with it right now. I do need/want 1 if not 2 new scopes other than the PST. I need a new scope on my .204, we normally go after gophers and Pdogs and I want something in the 20x-24x that has great glass and tracks very well. I'd like to stay under $500 each. What do you think? Where do I look at buying them and what reticule do you recommend?
Thanks much for your input!!
www.swfa.com
I just bought a Mueller 8.5-25 eradicator for my bench 223 and so far it has been more than I expected for a $240 scope it is a target dot with ir and so far it holds adjustment and tracks well. If it does break they are warrantied and to be honest I have had much more expensive scopes that let go at the worst possible time.
You do NOT want a first focal plane scope...if that is what the PST is. The crosshairs will cover a prairiedog past at 200 yards.
I would highly recommend a Leupold Mark 4 in fixed 16x....they can be found in the 800/850 range.
In the heat of the day, you won't be using much above 16 or 18 x....too much humidity.
Hasn't been my experience, but to each his own, ordering a 2nd Horus Predator.Quote:
Originally Posted by dcloco
System works too well for me to complain about wide lines interfering in a way that never happens, never shoot at anything above about 16x anyways (mirage, sight radius, etc.), just range. Can't forget clicks when you never click either.
You are not shooting prairie dogs past 400 yards with a FFP scope?Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Evans
The PST Vipers come with FFP and without.
400 would be mid range for us, no more that 10x is necessary or desired. Even at 800-1200 I don't go above 18x-20x.Quote:
Originally Posted by dcloco
dcloco have you ever tried one? Everybody told me the grid is obtrusive until I tried it. Its not an issue, at all. Besides 95% of the time aim point is in between lines.
I tried a 36x target scope first trip, couldn't hit squat at range, terrible mirage etc. but sure could count spines on the cactus leaves. 36x great for punching paper, lousy tool for PD's.
Get a 6.5x20x44 Viper great scope for the money.
Yes, actually prefer shots 400 to 1200 (not that I connect that many times! ).Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Evans
For staying under your target price of $500 each, I gotta go with Pa Hog. Get the Vortex viper, either the 6.5-20x-44, or the 6.5-20x-50, in whatever reticle you like. I got the 50mm with the mil-dot reticle. It was right at ...$500 from Doug at Cameraland in NY. It was in stock, and I had it in less than a week. I also got the sun shade. So far I'm happy with it for a "mid range" gun.
Hey thanks for the input guys!! So I'm thinking the Vortex Viper for one rifle and then I really like the Viper PST's and would like to try that on another rifle. The question is now for the added $150 bucks do I go with the FFP or not? I'm thinking not because of the small targets I'm gonna go after but am all about listening to people that know first hand as I've never owned an FFP but have dinked around with one that my brother owns. Not near enough to make a judgement call though. What do you think??
I shoot clays at 500 with a FFP on 16 power no issue. If you can deal with the cross hairs it is great because you can see the exact correction with a miss. The cross hairs are not as large as you would think on a good scope. What is the thickness on the vortex? We can calculated exactly what it will cover.
I looked it up.... .18MOA and .04mrad. Which is better to use/learn? I really like the PST reticles!!Quote:
Originally Posted by bama110
if you can go with mil adj and mil retical that is the best. Just for reference .18 moa is 1.8 inches at 1000 yds i do not think you will have trouble seeing a pdog or gopher.
I like mil/mil FFP because once you see your hit you have to do no math. Ex. hit 1 mil right .5 mil low simple dial it in.
1 mil = 3.438 moa
AGREE!Quote:
Originally Posted by bama110
OK..........so now I want to buy 2 $900 dollar scopes. Thanks..........not really. I will probably buy one of these because I had originally thought that was what I wanted. Not sure that I want to spend the money on 2 though but they sure do sound like they are what I want/need. Thank you for all your input guys and sounds like I should go with the mil/mil FFP.
No Sir, I meant have you tried a FFP grid scope?Quote:
Originally Posted by dcloco
Ok so I have placed an order for the Viper PST FFP but I got it in the Mrad/Mrad format. Should I change that to the mil/mil? Honesly I forgot that that was what was mentioned on here. I can still change the order but would want to do it soon. If I should change can you explian more on why? I've heard it both ways as far as which one is easier. So the next thing is getting one or two lower end scopes. Not tooo low. I found a smokin deal on a Burris Fullfield II with a spotting scope. 6.5x20x-50 1" tube. I am wondering if I should pull the trigger. I read some reviews and they sounded good...........but, looking for more input.
Thanks again!!
The Burris lack The Adjusment range of the other scopes your looking at, and the FFII glass is mediocure compared to the Vipers
Huh........well I really want a PST that's not the FFP for my "cheaper" scope(s). Problem is it's not much cheaper! Right now I have 2 Nikon 6.5x20's and one of them seems to really screw with me as far as the paralax goes. At least that is what I'm thinking. They have great glass, they are both at least 10 years old. This one that is giving me the problem, it seems that I have to put my eye as far forward, within my eye relief window, as I can or the groups just open up. It's not one bit comfortable shooting it prone/bipod with my savage 12 thumbhole stock. Maybe it has to do with the whole combo scope and stock. If that was the case then I've got my scopes lined out for now but maybe I need a different stock than the thumbhole one. Maybe it's just not built for me??? any thoughts/anybody????
You have 2 of the identical Nikons, but only one of them is giving you trouble? Can you swap the Nikons across and try the "good" one on your thumbhole stock rifle? Then you can see if it's the scope, or the rifle configuration that's causing the issue. If you find that it's the one scope, send it in to Nikon, and they'll either fix it or replace it. It's not unheard of for a scope to lose it's internal alignment.
I had a Burris black diamond do it once.
Those are the same thing "Mrad" and "mil" are both short for "milliradian."Quote:
Originally Posted by potatohead