20 MOA EGW...what rings?

So I may have screwed up for the time being. I have a model 12 thumbhole varminter that I'm having a hard time getting a good cheek weld while shooting prone. My thought was to get a rail and medium Burris Z rings. I ended up ordering the 20 MOA rail because 1. That was the only one in stock and 2. I plan on building this action or another Model 12 into a Tactical/long range shooter.

So anyway I'm not sure what Burris Z ring will fit this rail. My fear is that I won't have enough adjustment on my scope. Right now I have a OLD Nikon 6.5x20 but it will be scrapped soon as I'm not liking it anymore. I might just put it back on my 17HMR. The rifle is now chambered in 204 Ruger and I'm shooting between 40 and 250 yards. Mostly gophers seeing that I've got THOUSANDS withing 5 minutes from my house. Once I get the rifle and MYSELF more dialed then I want to try nailing out to 400 yards or so.

Do I just need to set this rail on the shelf and go order the 0 MOA rail? If i can use the Burris Signature Z rings with the correct inserts to bring it back to 0 MOA I think that would be the best route. I just don't know which mounts I need and do I need to buy the inserts separate?

Thanks much!

PS Any input regarding the cheek weld and prone shooting would be much appreciated!!

Yes, Zee's will work with the rail.

Most scopes you will find will find will have enough adjustment to zero at 100 yards with a 20moa base.

Yes, you'd also be able to use the inserts to take some or all of the taper out.

As for the cheek weld. The only problem I see is that they are a fairly high combination. Go to lower rings or a lower base. Or, add an adjustable cheek piece.

For lower bases, I like Burris Xtreme bases with the Signature Zee's. If you wanted to keep the EGW, I like the Burris Xtreme rings. Either way you'll be able to keep some taper to reach out for those long shots.

Geargrinder, Thanks for your input. I had some rings already and did a quick mock up. I'm not sure but I believe the rings I have are medium and even at that I see what your saying about the cheek weld. The scope is too high now with this stock. I really need to get another scope on this and go from there. Shooting prone with the old set-up I had to get too low and too far forward and it wasn't comfortable. Now with the rail it seems too high but I am able to move the scope back enough to make it comfortable in regards to eye relief. So I need to use the lower rings to drop the scope.......problem now is the rail extends too far forward and is kinda close to the scope bell. It's only a 44mm objective and I'm looking at getting 2 Vortex Vipers, one with the FFP for another rifle I'm building. I know I need to understand the different variables with shooting prone. I've found I'm more comfortable shooting with the bipod legs extended as far as the go. It is one of the shorty types. Any input as to what to look out for please advise.

Thank you.

Zee Sig's (med), that's what I'm running with oodles of space left.

This might help you with the Burris Extreme Rings. Now if you are using a 1" tube scope you MIGHT (???) touch the barrel with the low rings.

http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=533299&highlight=

"Aim small miss small", ;D

joseph

I ran into a similar problem as you have. I thought I needed a 20MOA base on my long range gun, only to find that I did not have enough adjustment (In three scopes) to zero the gun at 100 yards. I used the med zee weaver rings, and found that if I placed the +20 (Back bottom) and the -20 inserts (front bottom) it put me close to 0 MOA. I was then able to zero the gun in at 100 yards. I still have enough adjustment to go out way past 1000 yards, with either of two scope. (Weaver t36 or Vortex Crossfire.)

I put a 20 moa on a 300WM. 300yds was as low as i could get it and then was 2" high. after I shimmed it out with burris rings
I was able to get back to 100 yards.