Improving an old style Savage trigger

In the future I plan on an aftermarket trigger. In the meantime I'm having to work with what I've got. I've cleaned the trigger with brake cleaner, very lightly lubed a few spots, installed a lighter spring/wire and adjusted it as far as I feel safe. If I were to polish the sear engagement (Not enough to change the angle)and any other points that could be causing resistance would it be worth it? Is there another spring that I can buy to reduce the pull weight some more. I'd like to get it down to a smooth 3 - 3 1/2 lbs. thanks, Paul

Did you use light piano wire? I don't remember the gage/number/size or whatever, but I have more if it than I will ever have use for. I can send you some for nothin'. The thing is, if it's too light, it won't function at all. I'd say you should be able to get it down to 3.5. Another option I've done a few times is taper the sides of the sear so there is less sear engaging the trigger. Maybe take it down about 10% on either side. That way you still have enough spring tension to hold everything in place, but less surface area for the sear engagement. A bit unorthodox, I know, but it's worked alright for me on a few.

Also, unless it's a 3-screw (has a screw under the sear engagement part of the trigger), it's not likely to work well. That screw gives your final "touch" that allows you to adjust the sear engagement so the sear is just barely catching the edge of the trigger (rather than seating so deep into the trigger that it has a long way to go before releasing.) Without it, there's not much you can do to get it where you want it.

The wire spring should be a .40 dia.(oops should be .040dia). As far as polishing the sear I believe you can, sure hope so cause I did. I used a Arkansas hard stone and some oil and it turn out nice, trigger pulls less than 3lbs.

I changed the wire spring. Lowes had a pack of piano wire, 4 pieces, 4 different diameters, about 6" long for around $3- $4. I wonder if they're are making a profit on it. The lightest could be jarred out of place in the trigger assy. by beating the rifle around, so I used the next larger diameter. My trigger has a screw under the edge of the forward part of the sear. I took a Dremel and relieved a simi-circle from the back edge of it so the screw pillar (pillar and action bedded) has more clearance and doesn't bind the trigger assy. The 2 set screws, 1 is adjusted so the sear engages the few thousanths that the directions called for and the other is adjusted where the piece of the sear that passes over the other clears by just a few thousanths. The first time I adjusted it, it would rub on the other part of the sear and slow the trigger where it wouldn't reset consistantly. All of the particulars about the adjustments are from memory because I did it about 2 months ago. I'm planning on using something like Flitz or JB Non-embedding bore cleaner and using the 90* edge of a machinists metal rule and an abrasive to polish the sear faces and keep them square. I don't trust myself to do it without something to guide my hand. Someone or some article mentioned a spring. Is there another spring inside the trigger assy? I do appreciate the help and if anyone knows that the trigger assy. does or doesn't have another spring in it I would appreciate the info. For future referance, who makes the best Savage replacement trigger that is fairly easy to install and adjust and is reasonably priced? Ya'll have a good one, Paul

There is only one spring for the trigger, there is another for the sear. Two manufactures come to mind for a replacement trigger, Rifle Basix (SAV-1) and Timney. Both are quality products, cost about the same and both are easy to install and adjust.

You need to know the diameter of the wire spring stock. As stated above, the diameter should be approximately .040. Since you state there is a screw under the sear notch (forward portion), you should be able to get down to a minimum of 3# cleanly. Mine is 2.75# and it is all I need on a deer rifle. If I were using it as a varmint/predator rifle, I might want about 2.5#.

Rifle Basix Sv-1 and Timney's are essentially the same trigger you have now but with a coil spring and better polishing, etc. as you are trying to do there. They are very nice. Based on what you've described and already done up to now you should be able to replace the factory trigger with either of those and adjust to where you want it in maybe 5 mins. You won't be disappointed in either of them. They run around $90-100. Another good one is Sharp Shooter Supply "Competition Trigger". I like it a little better than the other two but it has a different design and is a little more tricky to install and adjust. Runs about the same price, maybe a few dollars more. One reason I think I like it better than the others is I like supporting the people that designed it and makes them, Fred and Lisa who run/own Sharp Shooter Supply.

I wonder what the pull weight would be with a .40 wire spring in stead of a .040 wire spring. I guess details matter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by olddav

I wonder what the pull weight would be with a .40 wire spring in stead of a .040 wire spring. I guess details matter.

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With the .40 you will need a come a long to pull the trigger.

The relief that I cut in the front piece of the sear assy is for clearance for the pillar bedding tube on the action screw. I've already replaced the piano lire spring, how bad is it to get to the other spring? Will I need special tools or 5 hands. Foxx, you said that there are 3 triggers for it. So the more expensive/adjustable trigger companys like Jewell don't make one for it? Thanks, Paul

There is no need to replace the sear spring and no one makes a replacement.

It is not recommended that the sear be relieved to make room for the rear pillar, but rather, the pillar be notched to make room for the sear.

There are 5 aftermarket triggers for Savage 10 and 110's. #1 and #3 below will also work with Axis

1. Rifle Basix Sav-1 (mostly for hunting and tactical) Will work with bottom bolt release
2, Rifle Basix Sav-2 (Lighter, for target and hunting) Will not work with bottom bolt release
3. Timney (essentially same as RB Sav-1)
4. Sharp Shooter Supply Competition (target, hunting and tactical) Comparable to the same results as #1 and 3, will not work with bottom bolt release
5. Sharp Shooter Supply Evolution Trigger (For target use) Superior to all of above, requires T&T of Action by SSS first

Finally, there are 3 versions of the Accutrigger:

1. standard
2. varmint
3. target

Many savage owners have successfully replaced older, traditional style factory triggers with these models.

I may be calling it the wrong name. In the front of the trigger assy. there is a metal piece that is approx. 1/16" thick and 3/4" wide. Where the screw is under that piece of metal I removed metal in a shallow rounded shape. It may be 1/4" to 5/16" wide and about 1/8" deep into the metal measured across the previously described metal piece. It doesn't appear to have very much pressure on it. It pivots on a pin that is less than 1/16" in diameter. By doing that small amount of shaping, my rear pillar isn't cut on the 1 side and seems to support the action better. When I tighten the screw, it doesn't gradually tighten, it stops suddenly. My understanding is that if it stops suddenly like it does that it's better because you're not compressing any thing (wooden stock) so you basically have a solid metal mounting for the action. Paul

^^^ It sounds like you removed material from the sear so it would not hit the rear pillar while pivoting rather than removing the top rear portion of the pillar. It may be okay to do this, but you are weakening the sear that way. The pillar is normally relieved instead because it functions perfectly fine and properly when the rear portion is removed. The pillars are not designed or intended to support the action. They are only present to prevent the action screws from compressing the stock material when tightened. Relieving the rear top portion allows that sufficiently. since you've already done what you did, I would not worry about it.

I measured the piano wire. The one in it now is .043 and the next smaller I have is .022, so is it easy to just ask at a piano shop or is it something that I ought to just let Foxx send me a section a couple of inchs long?
Foxx it has 3 set screws total, there is one that adjusts the sear engagement, one that adjusts the clearance on the safty after the sear adjustment, and the third is for the trigger adjustment I think. I didn't write it down this afternoon.
I noticed a slotted flat head screw running paralelle (SP? straight the same direction) down inside the trigger assy. behind part of the sear that is rearmost on the trigger assy. It looks almost impossible to get to without disassembling the trigger assy. There appears to be a small flat metal leaf type spring under it. Does anybody know what it's for? An y other suggestions on where to get piano type wire other than a piano store? A regular music shop wouldn't have anything like that, would they? Thanks for the help Ya'll. I'm trying to get it to do until there's more funds available. I seriously if anyon e else knows what that's like, right? Thanks again, Paul

The wire is no big deal. I have a bunch of it. More than I'll ever use. Just PM me your address. That's a "3-screw trigger". Good. You can adjust the creep with the screw under the sear engagement. THere's a god article in the FAQ's section which illustrates how to adjust it... hold on a sec and I'll post a link (itmight be an article for paid memebers, though.... I'll check)

Update: Here is the article, I don't know if non-paid members can access it, though:http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...ent-Procedures

There are similar instructions on line if you do a search for "Savage3 screw trigger adjustment" or similar.