I made a mistake and I need a solution

I was so excited today to pick up my barrel from the gunsmith after he installed the muzzle brake I desired for so long. I am driving, admiring the brake (maybe I should pay attention to the road) and then I have an AHA moment....how am I going to install my barrel into my action?... the OD of the brake is going to be larger than the opening in my wrench and thus I will be unable to slide it over the barrel to tighten the barrel nut. I called the gunsmith (long drive) and asked if I will be able to remove the brake, install the barrel and then thread again the muzzle. He said it will take an act of Congress to remove that brake. So...guys what options do I have? The brake OD is 1.35" and the barrel at the muzzle is 1.00".

Thanks,

Dang! Might have to sacrifice the wrench and cut it off when done.. Or make it an open ended wrench.

I would to to cut the wrench so the hole would be enlarged on one side enough to slide over the brake. If that didnt work you could cut out that section and have an open ended wrench.
Can you remove the the brake with a strap wrench and reinstall it after you mount the barrel?

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Originally Posted by reynoldsfamily3

I would to to cut the wrench so the hole would be enlarged on one side enough to slide over the brake. If that didnt work you could cut out that section and have an open ended wrench.

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or you could do that. :)

Slide the wrench on, then nut/recoil lug from rear. Tighten the nut with wrech. Then cut the wrech off. Preferably with something in between that and your barrel when cutting. If this works it will be cheaper than having the smith remove the brake/instal barrel and re-instal brake. (If it fits over the threads) never tried it, just an idea. I wouldn't try to remove brake yourself tho but rather have the smith who did it take it off if you go that route

I'm still trying to figure out why it would take an act of God to remove a brake as they're just threaded on. Unless your smith is a moron and used some super-duper thread locker on it you should just be able to slip something through the gas ports (screw driver shaft, rat file, something) to get extra leverage to unscrew it. I'd be calling him back and asking exactly how he installed it so you know exactly what you're dealing with.

I'm with Jim
I have seen two different wrenches cut out just enough to fit over the smallest diameter of the barrel.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...guy/wrench.jpg

I have had a lot of success with a strap wrench tightening the nut, then use a brass drift and drive the nut a bit further. Check it after you fire it the first few times to make sure your nut isn't backing off.

Sean

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

I'm with Jim
I have seen two different wrenches cut out just enough to fit over the smallest diameter of the barrel.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...guy/wrench.jpg

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Where can one find this wrench? Does anyone know?

You can find standard wrench at Gun Shack, Midway & several other places, but for the one that will go over barrel you will need to modify a standard one.

That wrench looks quite a bit thicker than the Wheeler wrench I have...

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Originally Posted by upSLIDEdown

That wrench looks quite a bit thicker than the Wheeler wrench I have...

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It is thicker. I saw somewhere a picture of them side by side. What I have done is using the one I have I modified one end by cutting an opening to fit over the barrel sideways and latching into the grooves. My wrench has one end with the rectangular/flat teeth/prongs and the other with semi rounded prongs. I cut the rounded side and it seems it will fit pretty snug fine. Hope will not skip when I will put 50 foot pounds of torque into it.

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Originally Posted by Cat 64

It is thicker. I saw somewhere a picture of them side by side. What I have done is using the one I have I modified one end by cutting an opening to fit over the barrel sideways and latching into the grooves. My wrench has one end with the rectangular/flat teeth/prongs and the other with semi rounded prongs. I cut the rounded side and it seems it will fit pretty snug fine. Hope will not skip when I will put 50 foot pounds of torque into it.

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if its a savage you dont need 50 ft lbs...25 ft lbs is plenty...also you can just use a strap wrench to tighten the nut.

https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/strap-wrenches

^^^ ya don't need to tighten it that much, but God only knows what it will take to loosen it.

???? how are you going to clean the gun ??? you have to take the brake off to clean it and to clean the crown... all mine unscrew off by hand, if not i keep a 2" long brass rod in my shooting box. MARK25=06

He may be in one of the commie states that requires muzzle devices to be basically permanently attached so you can't spin it off and put a scary muffler on there..... I have a notched wrench, and don't get them that tight and there fine. My 308 I swap between my 24" and 16" barrel regularly without pulling the scope or getting it out of the stock. My barrel nut is thread locked on. Even if they used red Loctite, 300 degrees and it will give it up.

Missed, that's a heck of an idea you have there... locking the barrel nut in place so you can more asily swap barrels for the same action, especially like the 308. I can easily see where you might want a carbine for certain situations and a longer barrel of the same cartridge in other situations. Having the barrel nut "fixed" in place would make it so much quicker and easier.

That's cool.

Sorry if I strayed off topic.