B&C Medalist Varmint/Tactical Stock

I recently purchased the Hog Hunter in .308 and while replacing the stock is on the bottom of the list of things I want to do to the gun, I will get to it eventually. I’m eyeing the B&C Medalist Varmint/Tactical stock in Olive Green with Black Spiderweb. Two questions.

1. Is the “Spiderweb” raised with a textured feel, or is it impregnated in the stock and the stock feels smooth?

2. How much work, if any, is involved in fitting this stock to the Hog Hunter?

3. Is the 2998 the correct stock for the Hog Hunter in .308?

not real sure but I think the 2998 is for a vanguard, as far as the finish the black on the green is applied like splatter paint thus it's not smooth ,also note that the green is like an olive drab or flatter color . but the black spatter is more of a gloss black

I found this one at Midway and it seems to be the correct one, but the part number doesn’t match anything on the B&C site that I can find. Looking at stocks is extremely confusing to me.

Only time I’ve ever replaced a stock was on a 1903-A3 back in 1973, and I had to do a lot of work to make it fit. I don’t mind a little work, but I’d rather not if I don’t have to. I’d like it to just drop in,

Post #48 in this thread shows the stock I would like to get and now that I look at his photos closer, I can see that the spiderweb would feel textured. I’m ok with that.

Here's the od green stock ,center feed 4.4 spacing blind magazine ,the barrel channel on these stocks are for the varmint contour barrel which I believe your hog hunter has,

it would be a drop in fit. https://www.tacticalworks.com/Savage...BC2997-97.html

I put one on my Savage 6BR and it required a fair amount of modification to fit properly. There was a shelf in the rear of the trigger area of the cutout that depressed the trigger spring as the action was tightened down. I had to remove that and free float the barrel and rear tang of the action. After all that it fit perfectly and I've been very pleased with the stock.

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Originally Posted by Tokimini

I put one on my Savage 6BR and it required a fair amount of modification to fit properly. There was a shelf in the rear of the trigger area of the cutout that depressed the trigger spring as the action was tightened down. I had to remove that and free float the barrel and rear tang of the action. After all that it fit perfectly and I've been very pleased with the stock.

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I guess I got a good one ,I mounted a model 10 action , varmint contour barrel in mine and had to do nothing but torque the action screws.
no problem with the accutrigger spring hitting and the barrel set square in the stock plenty of free float.
I guess it can be hit and miss with these.

I received my B&C stock yesterday and had no problem. Dropped in perfect. Can't wait to take her out and see what she'll do:smile-new:[URL=http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/19Tim68/media/SavageHogHunterIMG_20150209_153919_368_zps8886a171 .jpg.html]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8886a171.jpg[/URLhttp://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4b08b03e.jpg

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Originally Posted by Breeze

Here's the od green stock ,center feed 4.4 spacing blind magazine ,the barrel channel on these stocks are for the varmint contour barrel which I believe your hog hunter has,

it would be a drop in fit. https://www.tacticalworks.com/Savage...BC2997-97.html

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Thank you for that link. I had no plans to order a stock for some time, but their price with shipping was quite a bit cheaper than anything I’ve seen so far, so I went ahead and ordered one.
Seems like there were 6 available last night when I first looked at this, but there is now only 1 left.

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Originally Posted by Tokimini

I put one on my Savage 6BR and it required a fair amount of modification to fit properly. There was a shelf in the rear of the trigger area of the cutout that depressed the trigger spring as the action was tightened down. I had to remove that and free float the barrel and rear tang of the action. After all that it fit perfectly and I've been very pleased with the stock.

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I’ve only been looking at stocks for maybe two weeks, but I haven’t seen anything negative about the B&C stocks. I’ve read experiences like yours, and all were very pleased once they got it to fit right. I’ve never even shot with this type of stock before, so I’m looking forward to the experience.

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Originally Posted by Breeze

I guess I got a good one ,I mounted a model 10 action , varmint contour barrel in mine and had to do nothing but torque the action screws.
no problem with the accutrigger spring hitting and the barrel set square in the stock plenty of free float.
I guess it can be hit and miss with these.

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Hopefully, mine will be a hit and not a miss. :smile-new:

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Originally Posted by 19tim68

I received my B&C stock yesterday and had no problem. Dropped in perfect. Can't wait to take her out and see what she'll do:smile-new:

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Thanks for your experience and photos. :smile-new:

I have the stock. I want to get the gun to the range one more time before I put the B&C stock on, but one thing I noticed right away is that there does not seem to be any screw holes for removing the recoil pad. I’m thinking of installing a mercury recoil device to see how that works before ordering a muzzle brake, but to do that, the recoil pad needs to come off. Here is what it looks like.

http://www.pbase.com/wingspar/image/...6/original.jpg

First thing I noticed is that the recoil pad is super sticky as the stock recoil pad on my Hog Hunter is, so I’m thinking I’d like to replace it anyway.

I cant say for sure about yours, but the screw holes on a Pach, recoil pad I fit to my wife's rifle are barely noticeable, theyre made to be hidden into the pad, the "squishy" part "swallows" them up if you will. Theyre not supposed to be seen. Id guess that if you prod around a little bit they are there. Actually, in your pic it looks like a hole for a screw about halfway between the logo and the bottom of the pad, but it may just be the pic.
Scooter

When I didn’t get an answer here, I emailed B&C and got a quick reply. There are tiny slits about 1" from either end of the pad where the screws are and it is also glued on. Sounds like I need to order a new pad before I even try to remove this one as it sounds like this one might get destroyed trying to remove it. At least, now I know B&C has good CS unlike the nightmare stuff I’ve heard about Boyds CS.

?? ^^^ ??

Wingspar, just use a smooth shanked #2 srewdriver with oil on the shank and poke it around a little. Maybe wear glasses or have someone with better vision try this but there will be two slits in the rubber. If you pull on the edges of the pad you should be able to see the slits. The rubber is self sealing if the slits are done properly and the screws/shanks are lubed.

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Originally Posted by Ralfus

Wingspar, just use a smooth shanked #2 srewdriver with oil on the shank and poke it around a little. Maybe wear glasses or have someone with better vision try this but there will be two slits in the rubber. If you pull on the edges of the pad you should be able to see the slits. The rubber is self sealing if the slits are done properly and the screws/shanks are lubed.

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A #2 Philips Head screw driver seems to be standard for recoil pad installations, so I added one to my gun cleaning tool box some time ago. There are no “slits” so to speak, but if you pull on the pad near where the screws are supposed to be, it reveals a ragged hole to stick the screwdriver into. I can’t ever recall not seeing screw holes in a recoil pad before, hence my question.

I am beginning to think that no one makes a pre-fit recoil pad for these stocks, and I don’t have the equipment or the knowledge to install a grind to fit pad. I wonder if anyone has installed a grind to fit recoil pad on a B&C stock and would care to share their experience. Photos would be nice.

Delete

A fair amount of work was needed to make room for the trigger to move as there was a very large stiff piece of stock material that the trigger rested on, and about 30 minutes of careful Dremel work to get the trigger guard to fit. I thought moving the magazine would be the difficult part, but that was probably the easiest part. I’m not sure if I need to remove material for the barrel nut or not as there is a ton of clearance for the barrel, but I plan to shoot it as is. This stock weighs exactly 2 pounds more than the factory stock. It feels heavy. Scope, bases and rings arrive in 2 days.

http://www.pbase.com/wingspar/image/...8/original.jpg

Lookin Good

Is that tang floated ? :-)

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Originally Posted by Breeze

Lookin Good

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Thank you. :smile-new:

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Originally Posted by FW Conch

Is that tang floated ? :-)

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No, but I can see why it might look like it in the photo. I was able to slide a 0.001 feeler gauge under the tang in the rear to about the middle of the red dot. The gauge will not fit under any other part of the tang, which is snug against the stock. That little gap shouldn’t be a problem, should it?

I put a few rounds thru the gun today with the new B&C stock. The extra weight did not reduce recoil at all. It was late, and getting dark, so only shot out to 25 yards. About a 0.7" group. Failing light, 68 year old eyes and iron sights. I was ok with that. Tomorrow my Nikon M-308 4-16x42 arrives along with rings and bases. Later on this week, I hope to get it sighted in.

On the tang. I read where someone was glass bedding his action and taking great pains to free float his tang. Is that because of the glass bedding? Should my tang be free floating??

The general consensus is, you should be able to get a sheet of paper between the tang and the stock. This is to prevent binding pressure at this point. If touching, this stock area can be relieved with sand paper.

Good Luck ... Good Shooting ... Jim :-)

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Originally Posted by FW Conch

The general consensus is, you should be able to get a sheet of paper between the tang and the stock. This is to prevent binding pressure at this point. If touching, this stock area can be relieved with sand paper.

Good Luck ... Good Shooting ... Jim :-)

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Thank you for your help. Without it, I never would have known that the tang should be free floating. I put it back in the factory stock just to see if it was free floating in the factory stock and it was. I installed a stock once back in 1973, so this was like never having done it before. It took almost 30 minutes of careful Dremel work, but the tang is now free floating. Thank you again. :smile-new:

I got the scope mounted today, and bore sighted in the back yard. I’d hoped to get it out to the range today also, but getting the scope mounted took much longer than anticipated. Much longer. Won’t go into detail, but here is a couple of quick and dirty photos. You can see in the first photo that the only way to get the front lens cover off and on is to remove the scope as it just barely clears the front iron sight. It looks like I might have to live with that. Fortunately, I used QD rings, so it will be easy to do, but a pain in the rear. I may have to start another thread on that problem as I’m sure other Hog Hunter owners have had similar problems.

http://www.pbase.com/wingspar/image/...8/original.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/wingspar/image/...0/original.jpg