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Which 6BR dies should I get? I'm just used to 2 die sets, these neck and body dies are going to throw me off. This will be for a 1:8 Shilen
Which set?
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=145611
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=834405
Nothing wrong with Redding but, I prefer the "Forster Precision Bushing Bump Die".
Bump the shoulder as much or as little as you want. Size the neck the same way. Pick up a Redding body die to use once in a while. The less you move the brass, the longer it will last. I've got 10 to 15 resizes on my brass and it's still going strong. Body size about every 4 or 5 firings if the case starts getting snug in the chamber. JMHO and YMMV,Mike. ;)
I just went down this road with a 6BR.
After buying things I didn't actually need I ended up with a Harrell die for case sizing and Redding Competition bullet seater (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=386126). The Harrel die uses Redding type bushings for neck sizing and is the closest you can get to a custom die for half the price. Send him a couple of fired cases (unsized) and he'll pick the proper size die. Here's a link to his website though you'll need to call him to place an order - http://harrellsprec.com/index.php?crn=207. This die is also mentioned here under Die & Reloading - http://www.6mmbr.com/6mmbr.html
I've been a long time believer in Wilson dies but chose the Redding Competition bullet seater after reading this - http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com...ie-runout.html
Good shooting
Redding S type FULL bushing die set with .268 bushing. I have the same barrel as you and this setup rocks with new Lapua brass.
If you just use a standard Redding FL die they measure same as a .268" bushing you'll save some money.
Thanks. That's what I ended up doing, standard FL and seater.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pa Hog
MDM, I use a Redding Body Die for the few times I have to bump the shoulder back and a Lee Collet Die to size the neck. I like the Forster Bench rest Seating die. Unless you are loading HOT you will not have to bump the shoulder back every time, only when it gets hard to close the bolt. The mandrel in the Lee Collet die is easy to customize, either by you or Lee. The Forster Seating die is as good as any. If you shop around you can do all this for <$100.00.
In my experience I have nothing good to say about redding dies. I would steer you toward Forester dies.
How come Pat? Never tried them yet myself, but never heard anyone else say anything but good about them
I use the Redding neck bushing die set, with the body die in it also. I also have the Redding FL die set. I use the FL die to size brand new brass, then it just gets neck sized with the bushing die until I have to fight the bolt close on the case, then I use the body die to "bump" the brass enough to get a decent bolt close again. This is in my 6.5x284. It works for me and I've been very satisfied with my results.
Well to start, I can not justify the cost. I have owned a couple of sets and they did not work any better that any other die. (In fact, actually worse.) I found that the tolerances are sloppy, and they cause consintricity problems. I found that the need tweaked to be in speck. I had a 22br body die, that I had to take around 10 thou off the bottom just to get it to bump the case shoulder back 2 thous.Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokey262
I don't understand the design of the micrometer neck sizing die. One it stops sizing the neck far above the shoulder junction, and I don't know why anyone would only want to size part of the neck, let alone adjust how much of the neck it sizes. IMO the shoulder should be set back every sizing.
IMO they are just an over priced, bad designed, die's. For about a third of the cost I can get a set of Forester, and they work great.