.243 Lee trimmer

I've mostly reloaded pistol rounds, and some 7.62x39 rounds, but recently got myself a Savage Axis is .243, and I'm starting to reload them a lot (to save money).

I know rifle rounds need to be trimmed after a few firings, and I purchased a Lee trimmer set to do that. I've been watching the case length after every firing, and now I need to trim a few cases...but I'm confused about the Lee trimmer. The one I purchased is the "cutter and lock stud", along with the specific .243 "case length gauge"http://leeprecision.com/cutter-lock-stud.html and http://leeprecision.com/gage-holder-243-win.html).

Problem is...the specs for the .243 Win case says that the max trim length should not be over 2.045 inches. As you can see in the first pic, this case is just a smidge longer than that, so it should be trimmed:

http://i61.tinypic.com/2up8wm9.jpg

So, I put together the pieces of the Lee trimmer set, put the case in the holder, but the cutting blades of the trimmer aren't even close to the mouth of the case:

http://i58.tinypic.com/ohrby8.jpg

The ".243 case length gauge" has a pin that fits thru the primer hole, but when the case is held in the "lock stud" piece, the primer hole is blocked, so I thought maybe that was the problem, and tried inserting the case length gauge into the empty case without the holder/lock stud...but the blades still don't come close to the case mouth.

http://i60.tinypic.com/2hy9don.jpg

So, what am I doing wrong? I've read that other people are using this same Lee trimmer arrangement successfully, the case length gauge is marked for "243" do it doesn't seem like I've got the wrong piece...

Anyone use this Lee trimmer arrangement that can give me a hand here?

Thanks.

Push the spent primer out of the case before attempting to trim it. The little pin on the end of the "case gauge" has to protrude through the primer hole and actually touch the face of the lock stud once it has cut the case to length.

Also, you may want to brush up on reading your dial calipers. Your case is a smidge under 2.045" as your calipers in the 1st pic are reading 2.042" . ;)

The mandrel pins usually measure .070" dia but can run a bit over. I have one measuring .077" but still under enough to go through a .080" flash hole. Try inserting it in through the primer pocket. If that pans out then measure the mandrel length from the pin to the cutter flutes. It should measure 2.035".

Bill

That is not a .243 trimmer pilot. If it were, it would completely fill the neck diameter of the case. The picture obviously shows a lot of empty space in the case neck. maybe it is mis-stamped, but it is the wrong part.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LHitchcox

That is not a .243 trimmer pilot. If it were, it would completely fill the neck diameter of the case. The picture obviously shows a lot of empty space in the case neck. maybe it is mis-stamped, but it is the wrong part.

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Good catch there LH.

Yup I would double check that gage and be certain it is what it is supposed to be.

Lee Trimmers work well, not always fast, but well. That being said I would check it out and make sure its the right one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LHitchcox

That is not a .243 trimmer pilot. If it were, it would completely fill the neck diameter of the case. The picture obviously shows a lot of empty space in the case neck. maybe it is mis-stamped, but it is the wrong part.

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You know what there LH, if you look closely at pic 3, you can see the slit in the threaded stem that threads into the cutter head itself. I am willing to bet the OP doesn't have it screwed in all the way.

rick3, screw the stud in a bit more. There is a shoulder on the stud gage that should be screwed in far enough to actually touch the cutter blades just a bit. You may have to use pliers as some of them thread in tight the first couple times. Be sure to put something between the stud and the plier jaws.

You are correct. I missed that part. Could be a burr in there somewhere, or a bad thread.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bootsmcguire

I am willing to bet the OP doesn't have it screwed in all the way.

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I'm leaning that way myself.

I had to look at those I have, its been awhile since they saw the light of day. On most of them have about an 1/8" undercut portion between the last thread and the shoulder, or about the same amount showing in his pic. If its not turned in all the way against the cutter flutes the tapered end of the pilot itself would bottom out in the case.

Maybe?

Bill

Yup, just what I was thinking in my (last) guess ;) there Bill. If LH hadn't pointed out the gap between the brass mouth and the cutters I wouldn't have even noticed the slit.

Great team effort there guys.

Thanks, guys. Yes, I think that's what it was. I couldn't screw the pieces together by hand, even with some force, so I put vice grips on each piece and torqued those suckers. I got about another full turn from the pieces, bringing the cutter edges all the way "in". Of course, now I don't think I'll ever be able to get the pieces apart again, but if I need another trimmer for my 7.62x39, these are inexpensive enough to just purchase another one.

Haven't tried the "tightened up" trimmer yet, but I'm betting that will do it.

The threads get smoothed up after a couple of set ups. Then they can probably be hand fit without the priers.

If you have some 600 grit lapping compound or automotive polishing compound you should be able to get the parts to mesh properly in short order. Lee makes some novel & inexpensive tools that often require you to be the QC guy. The LCD's are a good example.

Every new one I get it that way. I lube it and tighten it with pliers and then they work excellent. A drill or the zip work fine. I was surprised to see how consistant it could be to be so simple.