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I bought a barrel off a different forum and it should be here in a couple days. It is a 6.5-300 WSM barrel. So here is the question. What do I use for a go/no-go gauge for this install? Do I use a 300 WSM Gauge? A 270 WSM gauge? Or do they make a specific 6.5-300 WSM gauge?
Second question? Which is better 300 WSM brass necked down? Or 270 WSM brass necked down? I am almost leaning towards 270 brass simply because I wouldn't have to neck it as much.
Any thoughts or experiences?
The 270WSM and the 300WSM are the same gauge, the 7WSM is different so you would use the 270-300 gauge, and you are correct the 270 brass will come out more uniform since they are closer in neck size.
Dean
I was just thinking of a similar wildcat a day or two ago, 270 WSM with 6.5mm projectiles. I look forward to hearing how this turns out!
They have been out for a while, and are almost not a wildcat any more, I haven't tried mine yet but I am sure it will be awesome, they always are.
Dean
I've just finished one too. Flutted Broughton barrel on a Stiller Predator. It's my only non-Savage bolt gun. Haven't tried it yet either.
Also Lee makes dies for this caliber, and the brass comes out nice.
Dean
Now we just need to get everyone going on down to the 6mm-WSM ;).
Seriously, the 6.5WSM should be a real screamer for you. As said above, Lee makes dies and necking down 270WSM brass is simple enough, I can get 'em to 6mm so 6.5mm will be a cake walk for ya.
I have a 10FP in 308 - converting to 6.5-WSM is just a barrel swap and bolt face swap, right?
If you plan on using the magazine its best to start with a short mag action.
Why is that?Quote:
Originally Posted by yobuck
I have run mine on a standard SA with a pushfeed SA mag head and a WSM mag body and follower and it worked just fine. Quite a few others here have done the same. I am just wondering why its best to start with a short mag action. If you are referring to the Large Shank vs Small Shank debate, then that is another topic altogether, ;).
Boots, I know the case dimensions are quite a bit different, but what yobuck might be talking about is feeding issues. I personally put a 6.5x47 Lapua barrel on a long action Savage and had quite a few feeding issues. Basically what was happening was the case was clearing the lips of the magazine before it was starting into the chamber. If you didn't slam the bolt shut the cartridge would pop right out on the ground.
Like I said, I know the dimensions are quite a bit different between a 6.5x47 Lapua and a WSM case but that might be what yobuck was referring to.
Very possible, not trying to seem like I was getting upset or anything like that. I was just wondering since I have been able to get mine to reliably feed quite well on a SA with a pushfeed mag head and WSM magazine. The only possible advantage of the WSM action would (arguably) be the Large Shank. Other wise a WSM mag and a SA Mag bolt setup is all that is needed to make any action a WSM. Just have the barrel made Large or Small depending on your action.
I agree with you Boots, the large shank/small shank debate has been beat to death. But there are enough people here who have built a WSM on a small shank action and have lived to tell about it. I have a large shank on my build for the simple reason that when I was at the gun show, there was a 300 WSM rifle there with a sporter barrel and standard Savage Stock. I managed to talk the guy to a decent price for a donor rifle and so I bought a large shank for the donor rifle.
Edit: I remember seeing on here once a long time ago that the actual outside dimensions of the actions are the same. So if it's a large shank action there is less metal thickness at the front of the action where the threads are. And there is more metal in the barrel. If it's a small shank, there is more metal around the action and less in the barrel. Does that make sense? But overall, there is the same amount of metal around the chamber.
Where the Large shank makes sense is for in front and under the nut. Inside the action you are correct, they just removed metal from the action to put it on the barrel, but it puts more meat under the nut and in front of the nut before the contour starts. On a varmint contour the benefits are minimal (IMHO) but where the large shank seems to be worth it is if you are going with a magnum or sporter contour. There, the area in front of the chamber can get thinner in those lighter contours so by having the large shank, it helps push that out a bit farther.
On my 6WSM I had Apache leave me 5" or so of straight bull before starting the taper down to a heavy varmint, that way it left extra "meat" for the chamber and plenty of room for multiple barrel set-backs.