School me on the Model 11 Hog Hunter.

Looking to pick one of these up in the next few months.
I'm intending to use it as a deer/coyote rifle.
I like the Hog because of its shorter, threaded barrel, light-ish weight, .308 caliber, accutrigger, and the blind mag (I prefer blind mags in the bush, nothing like trudging along, catching the hinge/mag catch on a branch and scattering your ordinance on the forest floor.) and COST. It's cheaper than most rifles with that feature set.
My plans for it are a 1-4x scope (thick woods here, longest shot would be maybe, 300 yards, most within 50 yards), a mount for a Streamlight with a red filter for coyotes, flash hider or recoil comp, and maybe a paint job. I'd like some suggestions on parts.
Iv'e heard that the factory stock can have issues with shooting from a bipod, and flex in general. Since I'm not planning on anything over 500 yards, is this an issue I should worry about, or can I ignore it for my purposes? And are there any other issues with the gun I should know about?

As far as the stock goes: I have bedded factory pillared tupperware stocks like the hog hunter's and still shot sub 1/2 moa groups consistently from the bipod......
Not as nice as some aftermarket choices, not as easy to fit to the shooter for proper length or height and I hate the traditional grip angle especially from the bipod.
Does not have that confident solid feel I think a stock should have and it should still be bedded for best accuracy but..........they work. If you can shoot it well, it works and you can ignore it if you wish.
If you don't mind those things it should serve you well given your needs and expectations.
I would recommend a Ross Schuler brake if you need recoil reduction.

^^ what he said :)

I think its an ideal gun for your purposes. Would not worry at all about the stock for what you describe. Maybe fill stock with some foam spray insulation as someone else here has done recently.

A standard model 11 synthetic with the sporter contour would be even lighter. I have one I whacked the barrel down to 16" on and shortened the synthetic stock that I like a lot. Really points fast and well as well as being a breeze to carry and maneuver with.

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Originally Posted by foxx

^^ what he said :)

I think its an ideal gun for your purposes. Would not worry at all about the stock for what you describe. Maybe fill stock with some foam spray insulation as someone else here has done recently.

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Got a link? I'd like to read that.

Maybe someone else can. It wasn't all that detailed. They just said drill a hole, spray in some expanding insulation foam... I would maybe cap it right away with duct tape then remove and plug with epoxy, sand smooth.

I have the rifle, I used a plastic epoxy to re bed the rifle, use aluminum pullers over the cheap plastic pillars from the factory, and to stiffen up the stock I inlaid a 1/4" wide aluminum flat stock down the fore grip channel left by the molding process and filled it with an epoxy. The butt stock I removed the recoil pad and filled with spray foam untill at was about 75% full and right before it was cured I added 4 short sections cut from the remaining aluminum stock and evenly spread them along inside. If you put the recoil pad on before it cures it will not expamd the way you need it to. Added minimal weight but did wonders for rigidity. I was shooting tad over MOA at 200 meters now consistently shooting sub MOA at 200. If you would like pictures i can provide if you'd like.

I'd also recommend disassembling your bolt, polishing all internals, then get a 38spc casing polish it up, get a 5/16 ball bearing and drop them in right before you reinstall the retaining bolt in the end of the bolt. It will help a lot with the heavy bolt lift after firing. if you want a light trigger pull you can easily change out or modify the stock rear spring in your trigger assembly to lighten the pull beyond what the stock accutrigger will allow.

I have a Hog Hunter in .308 - you will love it. Mine shoots sub moa with reloads and the factory stock.