Originally Posted by
big mouse
FW Conch and emtrescue6: What kind of a build am I thinking of? Rifle for target shooting, just on my own, with no hunting or serious
competition in mind. A Model 12 action. Caliber would be .223 REM/5.56 Nato. Wylde chamber. Custom heavy barrel. An aftermarket trigger
(No Accu-trigger). Aftermarket Stock, maybe a Thumbhole.
Caliber is a fine choice for your stated purpose. Unless you just want to build for the looks, your factory barrel with a re-cut crown and checked headspace would probably be more than adequate.
Some questions; suggestions appreciated.
1.) Laminated wood or synthetic stock; advantages/disadvantages of each? What brands are recommended for each type of material?
Don't want anything flimsy.
I don't have any laminated stocks, but some of my buddies have put them on Savages and they all work just as well as the fiberglass ones I have swapped out. Depending on the model, they might be heavier than a synthetic, but that isn't always bad. I have a Stockade stock that is part of an ongoing project, but I think others with far more experience with Savage stocks will be able to offer more educated opinions than I.
2.) Range has targets at 100, 200 and 300 yards only. What rate of twist is advised for these yardages?
Match your bullet to the twist and you should be fine at those distances. I like a 1:8 in .223, and shooting 75-77gr bullets, but I have a 1:12 CZ that shoots light bullets at those distances well, too.
3.) Do I only have action glass-bedded to stock, only pillar-bedded or have both done? Please elaborate on this: I'm a newbie to rifles and
Savages.
Depends what type of stock you go with. I primarily build Remingtons, and have been using Bell and Carlson's Medalist stock lately. It has an aluminum chassis, so I just bed. I have a Savage project underway with a semi-inletted walnut stock that will be pillar and glass bedded. Consistency is what you are striving for with either of these processes, whether it be consistency in cradling the action securely with bedding or in the torque on the action screws using pillars. If your stock is softer and might give under tension, pillar bed. Otherwise, glass bed it and see how it shoots.
4.) Custom heavy rifled barrel blanks- Whose do I go with? How long of a barrel for my needs?
A heavy barrel is beneficial for rigidity and temperature control. A short barrel can be just as accurate as a long barrel, and, given the same taper, will be more rigid. A 16" .223 barrel in any weight is not going to have any trouble getting to 300 yards accurately. Savage makes some of the best factory barrels I have inspected, and I wouldn't hesitate to save the money and spend it on ammo and range time until I found my factory barrel wasn't performing as well as it needed to accomplish my goal. There are lots of opinions on best barrel makers. I have Pac-Nor, E.R. Shaw, Douglas, Bartlein, Brux, Krieger, and Criterion. They all perform for what I got them for and set them up to do, so I don't really have a recommendation of one over another.
5.) Aftermarket trigger. Something in ounces. Suggestion?
I've only used Timney triggers to replace Savage triggers and am happy.
6.) Action: single shot or repeater? Is there a decent variety of stocks out there for the Model 12 action in a single shot format? Or am I
only limited to what the Savage factory has?
I would guess the repeater has the most accessories available. My buddy just got a fancy hinged-floorplate Savage and is now going to have to swap to a standard blind magazine in order to find a decent after-market stock for a good price.
7.) Leaning toward Thumbhole Stock. As a long time handgunner, find this type very comfortable. Is it suitable for a rifle that's only going
to be used off of a bench? Never understood why most shooters use a conventional-type of stock, such as is found on an M1 Garand.
Your entire wrist is "rolled forward" into an awkward, cramped position. Like the ergonomics of an AR-15. Nothing against semi-autos,
but for this project a slow shooting bolt gun would be just fine.
I like conventional stocks because they are most comfortable and natural to me. The few thumbholes I have used didn't quite fit a meaty palm, whereas a standard stock has room above or below where I grip it.
8.) Model 12 Action: Have it "trued" or "blueprinted"? What's the difference between these 2 procedures? Worth having either of them
done?
Same thing, the terms are often thrown around interchangeably (and without definition). What you are doing with the process is squaring everything (to make "true," or perfect like a "blueprint"). I like to base it off of the boltway rather than some doing it off the outside of the receiver, but that's just how I was taught. I start by recutting the threads to be concentric with the boltway, then the lug abutments, and receiver face. I lap, rather than re-cut the recoil lugs. For a Savage, I throw the locking nut on the same mandrel as I do the receiver and square the front and back, as well. The back matters because it is up against the recoil lug, the squaring the front doesn't do anything but clean it up aesthetically. Surface grind the original recoil lug, or, buy a quality replacement (a better option), and you're good to go. Truing the receiver is worthwhile, in my opinion. Truing the action is more important than replacing the barrel; the most expensive after-market barrel won't help if it isn't concentric with the action, but a factory barrel on a trued receiver can show a good amount of improvement. The retail cost for truing a receiver is one of the most reasonable expenses in building a custom rifle (likely around $100).
Appreciate any advice all of you experienced Savage people have. Why go the custom route when Savage now makes a Varmint Model with
a Thumbhole Stock in .223? Unfortunately, have read here where factory rifles (some of them) have come with bent barrels, crud in the
threads joining barrel to receiver, shooters having severe sight-in issues due to misaligned parts, etc, etc. Go to a competent riflesmith and
have it done right the first time! No need to wait for Savage to rework things, even if still under warranty. Such is life in our mass
produced world. See "Need Help with my scope" by Turkey Agent in this section. It's an example of what I do not want to encounter.
Thank you!
If there is a factory rifle in a configuration you like, go for it. If it shoots well, you're way ahead of the game. If it shoots well and you want great, start with the blueprinting and re-cutting the crown with a bedding job, and you might be in there. I am primarily a Remington riflesmith, but can attest that Savage doesn't have the market cornered on factory misalignment of parts! But, everything is fixable. I would be very surprised if any "misalignment" were covered under a warranty. I've seen some really bad Remington 700s, but they were all within tolerance to ship from the factory. You will find "crud" in the barrel threads since the factories use some sort of thread locker that looks really nasty when removed.
