Headspacing Adams and Bennett barrel

???

I have a Stevens 200, and a AB 250 Savage barrel. I also have 'go' and 'nogo' 250 savage gauges from Brownells, and a nut-wrench.

I closed the bolt on the go gauge, screwed the barrel down snug, tightened the nut, and 'voila!' I could not get the bolt to quite close on a no-go gauge. I went to the range and inspected my first fired case - the head did not quite separate, but it is darn close (I can see daylight through it).

When I got home I tested both gauges again (in case it had loosened up) - same result. The go gauge will close, the no-go gauge will not.

I went back and read the faqs, and the only step I think I missed was removal of the firing pin(?) - I skipped this one b/c my go and no-go gauges have recesses where the firing pin would fall, if the gun were to fire.

Is disassembly of the bolt essential for this step, or is there something else going on?

All suggestions and feedback is appreciated.

Nate

First off I've never done this swap (ordering .223 barrel now) so I am no expert. But the only thing I can think of is that your bolt face is out of spec/installed wrong or your go/no go gauges are out of spec. I would assume your gauges are in spec. What caliber is your barrel? is it a .250 savage or a .22-250 because there's definitely a difference and if you got the wrong gauges then that's the problem.

oh my bad. I just read that it is a .250 savage. Hmm I'm not sure then. :-\

What ammo are you using? how does the case look compared to an unfired case? any bulges? anything look odd?

You can leave the firing pin in but, if I remember correctly, you are supposed to remove the extractor while headspacing. It may make the difference you need. When I do mine, I take out both the ejector and extractor and I haven't had any problems.

That fixed it (I hope). I guess the first time around I was headspacing against the outside of the extractor, rather than the bolt face.

I'll post back after I verify at the range, but I think everything is going to be 'ok'.

Nate

I have to admit, it still sounds odd to me. The extractor should have popped over the rim of the go gauge. Yes you're supposed to take the extractor out, and I always do, but...?

Is this factory ammo, or handloads? New brass, or mystery brass? If you take a loaded round, and put a piece of scotch tape on the bottom of the case head, carefully cut it around so none of it wraps over the case rim, can you then chamber that round?

The answer you want to that exercise is "No".

BTW, that's the method I use to "check" my headspace after I've used the go gauge. I don't use a "no go" gauge. I take the "go" gauge, and put the scotch tape on the base, and I don't want the bolt to close on it. It will come close to closing, but it shouldn't close.

I'm pretty sure it was "headspacing" on the outside of the extractor the first time I went out to the range.

I walked out to the shop after reading the post above mine. I put in the 'go' gauge while the barrel was in the vise, and I was able to turn it farther down before I felt it "pop" over the extractor lip.

Rookie mistake. I guess I didn't turn the barrel down with enough force the first time.

A closer look at the bad case from the range confirms it was almost 3/32" longer in the body than it should have been (which is about the distance from the top of the extractor to the bolt face).

Ok, that sounds good. Glad you've fixed it. Nobody likes "surprises" like that at the range.

I always turn my receivers onto my barrels onto the go gauge slowly until I hear and feel the extractor snap over the rim and bottom out. Never had any problems. Matter of fact, the bolt always extracts the gauge. Probably would be hard on the extractor if I was switching barrels regularly.

.

Think the concept of headspace was invented after I started.

Sort of like "weight and balance" on airplanes. Came along after I started.

.

if you open the bolt and slide it back some you can see it the extractor is hooked in the groove and drawing the gauge back. the rule book says to things more then once.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GUNFANATIC

I always turn my receivers onto my barrels onto the go gauge slowly until I hear and feel the extractor snap over the rim and bottom out. Never had any problems. Matter of fact, the bolt always extracts the gauge. Probably would be hard on the extractor if I was switching barrels regularly.

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Yes.....

Works every time.

cale

10-4 to all.

Rookie mistake on my part.

Won't happen a second time, Im sure. :)

If it did Not close on your NO GO, As You stated.... that is Not your issue, trying to close it would have snapped the extractor over it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thunderchief

You can leave the firing pin in but, if I remember correctly, you are supposed to remove the extractor while headspacing. It may make the difference you need. When I do mine, I take out both the ejector and extractor and I haven't had any problems.

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i do the same. hope it helps. 8) dd

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Originally Posted by caroby

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GUNFANATIC

. Matter of fact, the bolt always extracts the gauge. Probably would be hard on the extractor if I was switching barrels regularly.

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Ya really think that is worse then pushing it onto the 60 rounds you fired before you change the barrel?

Yes.....

Works every time.

cale

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I almost had the same problem with a new .204 GO-GAGE which had a very sharp square shoulder which had to be beveled. It now snaps in with little effort.

[quote=Blue Avenger ]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by caroby

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GUNFANATIC

. Matter of fact, the bolt always extracts the gauge. Probably would be hard on the extractor if I was switching barrels regularly.

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Ya really think that is worse then pushing it onto the 60 rounds you fired before you change the barrel?

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Well......yes. The gauges are much harder than brass. Just seems reasonable to me.

BTW: our quotes aren't working right. :-\