Happyness soon fades what is wrong here with my Savage 243 model 10 Help please THX

When i bought this gun for $280 with the press i was happy> And i didn,t check the bore so i don,t know what happened.

I had made the Brass Bullets but i never fired any and i think i,m lucky i didn,t because i just got back from the gun shop and they had the 243 100 grain Interlock,s in so i bought them.

I reloaded 5 bullets and the 1st one fired OK i think except for the white sparks. But the next went in OK and fired but when i tried to pull the bolt back it was a little tight.

So i put the 3rd and last in and it fired but i couldn,t get the bolt up and back with out a lot of force and the shell stayed in their so i took the bolt out and used my cleaning rod to push it out.

I then looked at the 2nd and noticed the primer wasn,t in their and neither was the 3rd and they were not in the clip area.

So did they get shot out or what.

I took the gun apart and their was unburnt powder around the base of the clip underside and side of it and thees small cylinder like pcs that are 0.040 in dia by 0.095 long and i squeezed on and it looks to be metal but not magnetic they both are the same and part of the primer was stuck in the eject pin and groove.

Also it will not eject you have to pull the bullet out of the bolt.

When i look down the bore (unloaded naturally )

It was really cruddy and i cleaned it and their was still powder unburnt in the cleaning fluid in the glass i cleaned it for a good 5-8 minutes and it would often get stuck. It wasn,t like it should be like when i cleaned the Ruger 10/22 or the 77 .223. And for about 6-8" from the shell breach you can barely see the rifling. It,s their i think but their is a lot of crud or it,s gone.

It doesn,t have the nice shinny smooth looking bore like on my old 22 has and that has been fired several thousand times and not always cleaned . ( I Know )

So i assume this barrel is SHOT

So whats you input. I think if i shot those solid brass rounds there would of been trouble. And now that i think about it i,m glad it rained out the day i was going to try them out.

I should of checked the barrel when i bought it i knew it was to good of a deal hay .

Check out the Picture,s i know theirs a bunch

Thanks you all i guess my bullet making will be on hold but i may try to make some 30-06 some 308 and some 50 calibers and other various calibers so i can make some money or make some cannons.

Thanks Again you all Austin.

kæviːɑːt ˈɛmptɔr ,

:amen: I still consider myself lucky for not trying those solid Brass Bullets

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What powder & how many grains were you using. With out seeing the bore, it looks like you need to do some serious bore cleaning, get some good bore cleaner & brushes. Looks to be over pressure loads or filthy bore.

If you blew the primer clear out of the case you're way over pressure - either from too hot a load or a tight/heavily fouled/corroded bore. As short round said, without seeing the bore itself it's hard for any of us to really say. What I can say though is that I would lean more towards a heavily corroded bore than a shot out bore at this point given the results you saw. A shot out bore would be looser, thus it would yield slightly lower pressures rather than greatly increased pressures.

That second to last picture looks to me like a really, really corroded/rusted ejector pin which is clearly missing in the photo's of the bolt face.

Even if the barrel is toast (which I suspect you will find that it is if you have someone bore scope it), at $280 you still got a decent deal as you can barely buy a Savage 110 action for that these days.

Hi
I can't believe I left out the most important part the powder weight. Which was 30 grains.also thos primers were the earlier one's the. Last 2 were gone.
So laater today I'll I'll pick up a bore brush I wish I could get a good picture of the bore. I'll bring the barrell to the gun shop today

Thanks Austin

30 grains of what? Most .243 loads will be in the 40 range. Is it possible that it was under loaded? Light loads can easily be worse than heavy loads as they typically give little warning signs.

Before you sell or tear apart the rifle you might want to figure out if it is the gun or something else.

Agree. If your bore was so corroded the pressure blew the primers out. Your lucky you did not have a case head separation or bolt explosion.

If I were you I would dump the barrel and buy a used factory barrel here off the forum or even a good aftermarket like a Shaw or McGowen if you have the funds. If your rifle has the smooth barrel nut just cut it off with a dremel then buy a notched nut online for the new barrel. Headspace with a fired case or unfired round (no firing pin) and your good to go. For $280 your well ahead of the game even with a $200 barrel.

FYI I always inspect any barrels I buy, especially before shooting them. I have found issues even with new barrels. Every barrel should be cleaned and inspected before shooting.

I am gonna ask a crazy question...did you fully clean and inspect the rifle before shooting it?

Im wondering about the powder.

30 grains of 4895......you're kind of light.

30 grains of Universal........you're luck to still have all of your fingers.

Looking at that bolt head.......missing the extractor and ejector......it sure looks over stoked.

Use a .308 chamber brush for cleaning the chamber.

Remember too light of a load can cause pressure problems just like to heavy of a load.

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Originally Posted by earl39

Remember too light of a load can cause pressure problems just like to heavy of a load.

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And so, the bullit is moving down the bore at a slower rate than what the burning powder is expanding. Would that be it, just a guess.

Ditch the idea of the brass bullets......it's pretty obvious your'e lacking the experience of reloading in general, and solid brass projectiles were never meant to be shot in sporting arms, that's why nobody else makes them. I'd rather see you drill holes in them and put them on key chains, instead of reading about an experiment that went catastrophic. Just a word from the wise...

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Originally Posted by MrMarty51

And so, the bullit is moving down the bore at a slower rate than what the burning powder is expanding. Would that be it, just a guess.

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When the load is too light it will not cover the primer completely when laid in the chamber. This can cause a flash across the top of the powder and in some cases a secondary pressure wave. When these waves collide they square. Lots of times there is no warning, the firearm just explodes.

So what powder are we using.

Dont get me wrong. Im not debating the danger of a light charge and 30 grains is too light......but I'm not sure its "blow the head apart" light at .03% under.

Seems like "30 grains of what ?" Is the question......in my mind. And my mind is often a crazy place. :)

I'm with "shovelheadave", 30 grains of what?

He referred to white sparks and I remembered the earlier post about them which he stated he was using IMR 4831 which Hodgens site shows a little over 39 gr as the starting load and Hornady shows 42 as the starting for 95-100gr bullets.

In one of ClassicCannons Post, he stated IMR4831, I don't have any IMR4831, to compare to picture of unburned powder. Dose the powder in the picture look right ? Austin, post picture of powder container & sample of powder. There is the possibilty the powder you have is not what you think it is.

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Originally Posted by short round

In one of ClassicCannons Post, he stated IMR4831, I don't have any IMR4831, to compare to picture of unburned powder. Dose the powder in the picture look right ? Austin, post picture of powder container & sample of powder. There is the possibilty the powder you have is not what you think it is.

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The powder in the picture looks like a "Flake" powder. IMR 4831 is an extruded(stick) powder. Big difference.

http://ultimatereloader.com/reloadin...pistol-powder/

Gary

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Originally Posted by GaryB

The powder in the picture looks like a "Flake" powder. IMR 4831 is an extruded(stick) powder. Big difference.

http://ultimatereloader.com/reloadin...pistol-powder/

Gary

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+1 That is NOT IMR 4831 in his picture.

OP,

STOP!!

Stop right now. Before you blow your gun up and kill yourself, or maim an innocent bystander.

There are several different VERY serious things going wrong here, all at the same time.

Do not shoot ANY more of those loads. Pull all your bullets, and toss those brass ones in the trash. Then buy and read very thoroughly at least one reloading manual. The Lyman or Lee manual would be my first choice. You're trying to do very advanced reloading, and frankly, your experience level isn't there yet. Not trying to insult you, but handloading really ISN'T a hobby you can fail at safely.

From your pictures, you are way, way over max pressure with those loads. OK, edit, you didn't shoot the brass bullets yet... DON'T shoot them either!

YOU'RE LUCKY TO BE ALIVE!

There's something very seriously wrong with your process in making your ammo. We'll help you, but you'll have to be descriptive and tell us all about your load, where you're data is from, what that powder you used REALLY is (it's not IMR 4831), how are you measuring your powder, what your seating depth is, etc.

Just to clarify, the OP did state in his first post that he never fired any of the brass bullets he made.

The powder is a problem though!:o

Hello You all
The powder is IMR 4831
And i agree with the Making of bullets and will be leaving that up to the pros. And i did inspect the gun prior to buying it and the bore was in good shape when i looked thru it with a light because i didn,t have a bore light.

And i had took apart the rifle and cleaned and oiled it up and and i had no issues until after i fired the reloaded factory bullets i bought.

I never shot any of those solid brass rounds i just shot blanks (thats what i told her and then 9 months later my son was born :rolleyes: ) and that was where i got the white sparks from.

Below are pictures of the powder that was given to me with the gun and reloading press. And now i know where those cylindrical things came from.

I don,t think that powder is what it says it is could be that he put some other powder in that can and i,m going to buy some new powder. And if i can ask what powder do you all recommend I,ll be using the 100 grain factory bullets and not any of those brass one and i,m going to discontinue that project because even thou they come out nice and are with in tolerance i will not use them.

I,m good at machining and making cannons and jigs but that area is new to me and i,ll leave it to the pro,s to do and that,s why no ones doing it because people use what is proven to work and since this hobby is so dangerous and many factor are involved and any errors made are fatal.

I often argue when people try to give me advice but in this area you ARE the professionals and i,m just a novice user.

So i thank you all for you advise and it is well taken

Thanks Again Austin

PS Sorrry i haven,t replied earlier but i have been trying to get airline ticks to go to Flordia because my Mom is sick and i need to go their ASAP

Picture of the powder

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You don't happen to own any black powder guns do you? What's stuck all over your gun does not look like 4831 in any way, but it does look like the FF/FFF I use in my front stuffers.

Can you please list your entire load specs? Every component, measurement, how you measured and with what etc. Even stuff you think is irrelevant, throw it out there so we can help.

That red metal can does look a lot like my red metal cans of Goexx if I were to just quickly grab...

If you have black powder around I'd bet that's it. It'd leave your filthy dirty bore, unburnt powder on patches like that and do all crazy pressure stuff.

That is definately NOT IMR 4831! That looks like a mixture that someone discarded into that can. Do your self and your lawn a favor by using it for fertilizer.

Was the seal broken on that container of powder when you got it? If it was then someone put a different powder in it and it needs to be pitched.

Hello
Thanks for the advise But i never used any of those bullets and that is the reason why i came here i just thought i would show them. And i had bought regular ones that are 100 grains.From the start i had a gut feeling about them and i know that i,m new at this and i was just asking questions about them.

And i knew their was something adrift when the powder at 30 grains had filled up the casing and that was why i had originally post the white spark topic.

when i get that gut feeling i go with it and i knew better than to even try it.

But what i would like to ask is whats your thougth on Zinc plated lead bullets.

Thanks Austin

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Slowpoke Slim

+1 That is NOT IMR 4831 in his picture.

OP,

STOP!!

Stop right now. Before you blow your gun up and kill yourself, or maim an innocent bystander.

There are several different VERY serious things going wrong here, all at the same time.

Do not shoot ANY more of those loads. Pull all your bullets, and toss those brass ones in the trash. Then buy and read very thoroughly at least one reloading manual. The Lyman or Lee manual would be my first choice. You're trying to do very advanced reloading, and frankly, your experience level isn't there yet. Not trying to insult you, but handloading really ISN'T a hobby you can fail at safely.

From your pictures, you are way, way over max pressure with those loads. OK, edit, you didn't shoot the brass bullets yet... DON'T shoot them either!

YOU'RE LUCKY TO BE ALIVE!

There's something very seriously wrong with your process in making your ammo. We'll help you, but you'll have to be descriptive and tell us all about your load, where you're data is from, what that powder you used REALLY is (it's not IMR 4831), how are you measuring your powder, what your seating depth is, etc.

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