Painting Tupperware

I did some tests with the paints I'm gonna rattle can my rifle with.

Painted a five gallon bucket with some krylon fusion, and some other camo paint from brownells.

noticed both scratch off the smooth plastic pretty easily.

what prep would be good to get the paint to stick to my tupperware stock? I intend to degrease with pure alcohol... but don't know what else to do to it.

Sanding surface a bit to give it a rough texture? or is there another type of paint that works as a good "primer" for this (sticking with rattle-can theme... do not intend to go fancy paint route with dura, cerakote, or that stuff)

I would wipe it down with some alcohol. Then I'd coat the stock with a couple coats of primer first, then the Krylon Fusion, then a couple coats of clear. I did mine that way and it worked great.

what primer did you use?

look around wally world and you can find plastic primer, that is what I used. I also let it dry the full 3-5 days that the can says between color coats just because I tend to forget to watch close for the 5 min intervals. have only had one paint lift and it was due to second coating at the wrong time

i used some alumahyde II from brownells and its the cats meow...for a rattle can finish that will hold up..still have to degrease first but i havent found a winning combo yet wit standard rattle can paint from say lowes or wally world.just my .02

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Originally Posted by pdog06

I would wipe it down with some alcohol. Then I'd coat the stock with a couple coats of primer first, then the Krylon Fusion, then a couple coats of clear. I did mine that way and it worked great.

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+1 on alcohol for cleaning and the Krylon "fusion" however, I didn't use any clear coat to finish. Here's a pic of my 10 FP stock that I painted tan and brown. Then I wrapped it in a fishnet and shot the whole thing in OD green to make the tan & brown shadow scales..

[img width=553 height=450]http://i311.photobucket.com/albums/kk445/snot-rocket/camostock-1.jpg[/img]

I've found that the fusion paints need about a full month to fully "cure" to a point where it's nearly impossible to remove.

Preparation and a pair of nitrile gloves is important. Cure time is critical. A week is good. A month is even better. A coat of matte clearcoat also adds to the longevity of your paint job.

Alcohol is all i use on both the stocks as well as scopes i do. The wally camo paint works well and sticks like glue, and i do work my rifles hard somtimes. For this area i use a o.d. green base then use snipes of artist sponge to build the pattern, with desert tan next and just dab of brown to finish it.

If you are going camo, you can cut the artist sponge to make the pattern you want, just dab the top coats on , they will build up faster than you think. It takes about two weeks to cure good, but is useable in 24hrs. If you live in the desert, just reverse the base coat to tan, or whatever. blue

I've got the bulldog flectar stencils i want to try. gonna give it a fall downed foliage color scheme i think.

I've also got pure alcohol to clean it with (rubbing has oil in it).

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Originally Posted by Slick

I've found that the fusion paints need about a full month to fully "cure" to a point where it's nearly impossible to remove.

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It states on the Krylon can that the longer it gets to cure before handling (or applying more coats), the more durable the finish will be. Long gone are the days of "go super-thin, and keep building up after an hour".

If your using auto based urethane paints, they need recoats within the hour or after 2 days. But the prep is killer, with sanding, cleaning, primers, etc, etc. And a well equipped paint booth helps.

Larry
Tinkerer

Rough sand stock (320 grit SP)-acetone-air dry-Krylon fusion or regular spray primer-dry 24 hours- light sand and re prime-wait another 24 hours light sand and reprime-let dry 2 days then spray. I wish I lived in an area that snowed because that white and black on the left was soooooooo awesome, it was my favorite by far


[img width=530 height=450]http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s176/nylouie516/4sale2.jpg[/img]
[img width=534 height=450]http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s176/nylouie516/4sale-1.jpg[/img]

Really like those patterns. Can you share how you did them??? I like the one on the far right.....

For the pattern on the far right I went through the woods and picked up very slim and thin twigs along with DRY pine needles. For the straighter patterns I used FRESH right off the tree pine needles. I then lay a 2' strip of good sticky tape and lay the pine needles on the tape giving enough room that they will still cover the gun when you lay the stencil on top of the stock. After you have all your pine needles on the tape, run another 2 1/2' piece of tape to seal the stencil up. The added weight keeps the stencil from flying around. Spray paint over the stencil and let sit for 10 minutes remove the stencil and repeat the process till you get the desired pattern

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Originally Posted by Southernfryedyankee

Rough sand stock (320 grit SP)-acetone-air dry-Krylon fusion or regular spray primer-dry 24 hours- light sand and re prime-wait another 24 hours light sand and reprime-let dry 2 days then spray. I wish I lived in an area that snowed because that white and black on the left was soooooooo awesome, it was my favorite by far


[img width=530 height=450]http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s176/nylouie516/4sale2.jpg[/img]
[img width=534 height=450]http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s176/nylouie516/4sale-1.jpg[/img]

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Can you take a couple of close up shots of the patterens from a couple of your guns? thank you.

I just painted a Stevens 200 stock for my 6-222 RM build. I obviously removed the action from the stock and took out the sling studs and removed the recoil pad. I then used 200 grit sand paper and sanded down all the mould lines to clean up the stock. I masked everything off that I didn't want primer or paint to get into. I used a snug fitting piece of lumber that I put in the buttstock to hold the rifle by while priming and painting.

I then cleand the stock with Acetone before I rattle can sprayed it with automotive plastic primer from NAPA. I then let it dry for a few days by hanging it in the garage. I then used a tack cloth to remove any dust never touching the stock with my hands. I then used plain textured Rustoleum for paint since I had primed it I wasn't worried about using a plastic paint to make sure it would stick to the stock. Now I just need to go back and clear the whole stock to seal the paint since it is textured it is very easy to get rub marks in it and the clear will prevent that.

Here is a link so you can look at my rifle. http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...html#msg183746

I actually sold all of those stocks already, sorry. I MAY do 1 in the future. I was doing it as a little way to make ends meet but it wasnt going well so I stopped

Just an update... got the stock done.

I like the look, but I did have some pull-off problems. I've got some ideas as to why (not so much the paint's issue... more things I did while prepping). It was de-oiled...but I put a first coat on the stock incorrectly (held can too far from stock...allowing paint to actually sort of dry before hitting stock...per aervoe, you have to shoot from 6-8 inches and i was probably further back). Well, I sanded off the rough surface of that finish...when I should have sanded hard down to plastic again, or stripped it with acetone. i think this poorly laid down layer is what allows subsequent spots to pull away.

I recoated the problem areas, and then hit the whole thing with a layer of clear

Here's a pic of how it looked with pull-offs, and then a pic of how it looks now, ready to fire.

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/358camo2.jpg
[img width=98 height=450]http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/savageflectar.jpg[/img]

how do those stocks wear if you are packing them over your shoulder for long hikes?

Thanks.

I use the same method as "southernfriedyankee", works great with Krylon camo colors and clear coat.

don't know how it will wear yet... just got it painted :)

've learned something... don't paint the rail (or at least the clamping surfaces)

It's tough to get rings to clamp on to the painted surface uniformly. I think I've used up a lot of my windage adjustment because the two rings are slightly off kilter. I got the scope to zero...but I think I'm near the edge of the adjustment range (when I like to keep it more centered. Could just be the EGW rail and how well the stock mount holes are drilled... but before next season, I'm going to strip the paint off where the mounts go so it's not even a consideration. Normally, I will set up two scopes on rings so I can change them in a catastrophe. My setups in the past have been so good I could mount, unmount and remount and be zeroed again.... right now, as it is... I won't pull my primary scope off because I really question if I can match the clamping tension (and I've got only two weeks to season... so I don't want to have to deal with another trip to the range - which is now packed with hunters sighting in).

Weaver windage adjustable 4X4 rings work great and save your internal adjustment. Millet also makes windage adjustable rings but their not as robust as the Weavers.