Extractor Thickness Differ

I recently acquired an older, I'm assuming 110 Savage in .243, that is in need of some TLC. Thanks to user Foxx, I have successfully switched this rifle from a DBM over to a blind mag. Now my problem is the bolt head extractor. It will either the casing before ejecting it or leave it lodged in the barrel, not latching on to it at all.

When troubleshooting the problem, I took the extractor out of one of my 12FV Savages and tried to put it in the bolt head, but the thickness of the 12 extractor is more than the old one in this rifle, and would not slide in the bolt. However, I have found an extractor, but curious as to what I need to order because there are a ton of 110 Savage options, many of them have letters after them. I'm guessing none of those letters apply to the standard 110 action/bolt, and just mean certain options on the firearms. Am I correct on that?

I would like to have one of the upgraded extractors that I've read you can get, and have seen a picture of at Sharp Shooter Supply, but I can't find anything on their website in the bolt parts section about extractors or other parts. All I see are bolt handles and the fluting option they offer. Should I call them?

If that falls through, can I just pick up a 110 Savage extractor from the Savage parts site I have found? Any help is appreciated....Thanks

The extractors are all the same on the business end. The reason one would not fit was a burr in the slot in the bolthead. Sharp Shooter Supply does not make upgraded extractors, they offer up graded EJECTORS.

I had this lengthy post all typed up, but Fred summed it up in three sentences.

OK, thanks for the information. Just wondering why the one out of the 12 wouldn't go in the 110. I'll work with it again. Might have been holding my mouth wrong. The 12 is a .308 and the 110 is a .243. That wouldn't make a difference would it? Thanks again for the information

My mistake on the extractor. It was a PPC upgrade...

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Originally Posted by Hotolds442

I had this lengthy post all typed up, but Fred summed it up in three sentences.

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LOL. That is the way it goes....Like looking for something in a book and it be on the last page.

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Originally Posted by Nemesis

LOL. That is the way it goes....Like looking for something in a book and it be on the last page.

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Lol it's always on the last page you look.
The only extractor upgrade is the installation of a larger ball, and it works well. The 308 and 243 are the same, so it's not that.

I got the extractor in but I used the 110 ball and spring. Didn't switch the one out of the model 12. It still won't grab a round. And if it does, it drops it before it can eject it. Would a bad spring or ball cause this? I know the 12 extractor is good. I'm going to change out the spring and ball from the 12 tomorrow to see.

Switched over the complete extractor, spring and ball from model 12 and the bolt will not extract rounds from chamber. I know those parts are good. Any suggestions to what I need to look at now?

It seems to me, at this point you gotta try the larger ball that is part of the upgrade kit.

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Originally Posted by foxx

It seems to me, at this point you gotta try the larger ball that is part of the upgrade kit.

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I will call tomorrow about the kits you told me about.

I would examine the dropped cases for signs of burrs any scratching that might indicate something's wrong that way. If no signs like that I'd aggressively clean the chamber with a good solvent and brush to remove any greasy, copper or carbon. Then lube it with a light oil like clp.and.then patchor swab that out.

Some guys will plug the ends with ear plugs and soak overnight with kroil, bore solvent or automotive combustion chamber cleaner.

Doesn't take much to cause the extractor claw to drop shells. Could.be something as minor.as some dried out greasy build up. Maybe even left from when it.left the factory. Especially if.it came from a walmart like store where they may not clean them at all prior to sale. I had a guy want to return a 770 300wm recently. I asked.if he'd cleaned it before using it? No of course not its brand new why would.it need to be cleaned? Uhg!!

Yeah I work for a box retailer that does this.

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Originally Posted by sixonetonoffun

I would examine the dropped cases for signs of burrs any scratching that might indicate something's wrong that way. If no signs like that I'd aggressively clean the chamber with a good solvent and brush to remove any greasy, copper or carbon. Then lube it with a light oil like clp.and.then patchor swab that out.

Some guys will plug the ends with ear plugs and soak overnight with kroil, bore solvent or automotive combustion chamber cleaner.

Doesn't take much to cause the extractor claw to drop shells. Could.be something as minor.as some dried out greasy build up. Maybe even left from when it.left the factory. Especially if.it came from a walmart like store where they may not clean them at all prior to sale. I had a guy want to return a 770 300wm recently. I asked.if he'd cleaned it before using it? No of course not its brand new why would.it need to be cleaned? Uhg!!

Yeah I work for a box retailer that does this.

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This is an old action from the early to mid 80's. Sometimes it will work fine and other times it will drop the case or not grab it at all with the parts that came in it. With the parts outta the model 12, it wouldn't grab any. I tried once loaded relods and factory ammo. The result was the same. I've cleaned the chamber with breakfree along with all the extractor parts with no success.

I have had several of those "older" Savages that were made in the less than profitable years for Savage when they were rushing them through to try and save/make a buck. I would measure the bolt head and see if its not a bit oversized as the machining in that time period was not exactly tight tolerance in some cases. Just something to check.

Also as mentioned above, the larger .140" extractor ball that comes in the kit may help.

Nemesis,
if you need a few .140 detent balls let me know , I have maybe 10 left

drybean

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Originally Posted by drybean

Nemesis,
if you need a few .140 detent balls let me know , I have maybe 10 left

drybean

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thanks drybean. Sending you a pm

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Originally Posted by bootsmcguire

I have had several of those "older" Savages that were made in the less than profitable years for Savage when they were rushing them through to try and save/make a buck. I would measure the bolt head and see if its not a bit oversized as the machining in that time period was not exactly tight tolerance in some cases. Just something to check.

Also as mentioned above, the larger .140" extractor ball that comes in the kit may help.

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Boots, what measurement would tell me it's over sized? Could I compare it to my 12FV .308?

boots,

I measured the bolt heads in my Model 12FV and the 110 in .243. The 12 measured out 1.00" by .70" and the bolt head on the one I'm having problems with measured 1.00" by 0.6935, which I'm assuming would be .70" depending on where I had the caliber. I'm saying this action is as old as it is because of the E serial number. Honestly, I don't know exactly how old it is. But is has to be previous to '95 because of the E serial number, right?

I'm gonna give SSS a call tomorrow and check on some things as well as check on the upgrade kits that, foxx told me about as well. I'll get it lined out. It's just aggravating.

I took the rifle outside earlier and loaded 4 Factory loads from Federal. The rifle shot two of them out like a champ, but it dropped the third one and didn't even grab hold of the fourth one.

If all else fails, I'll just put a aftermarket bolt head on it and one of the upgrade kits...

Thanks to everyone who have added comments and tips and to drybean.

.473" is nominal for the brass so the head is going to be a bit larger than that in diameter.

I just measured 3 different bolt heads ( 1 from the 70's era, 1 from 90's era, and one that less than 3 years old) and all three work great and all measure .481"-.482" in diameter. I have another one here that works most of the time and is .490". I set it aside so I could open it up in the future if I ever need to for possibly doing an oddball chambered barrel in the future.

The extractor should take up most of the slop in a bolt head for the first bit of extraction since the chamber is holding the brass straight, but once the brass starts to clear the chamber I have had the sloppy ones let go of the brass. Unless its really sloppy the .140" extractor ball normally takes care of it.

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Originally Posted by bootsmcguire

.473" is nominal for the brass so the head is going to be a bit larger than that in diameter.

I just measured 3 different bolt heads ( 1 from the 70's era, 1 from 90's era, and one that less than 3 years old) and all three work great and all measure .481"-.482" in diameter. I have another one here that works most of the time and is .490". I set it aside so I could open it up in the future if I ever need to for possibly doing an oddball chambered barrel in the future.

The extractor should take up most of the slop in a bolt head for the first bit of extraction since the chamber is holding the brass straight, but once the brass starts to clear the chamber I have had the sloppy ones let go of the brass. Unless its really sloppy the .140" extractor ball normally takes care of it.

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OK. I measured the outside. I'll check the inside.

Yup, you are looking at across the face diameter. Like I said above, unless its pretty far over, the .140" ball should cure it. The kit that SSS sells is a great kit, but most of the parts are for enhancing ejection. Only the .140" ball that comes with the kit will be the only part to enhance extraction.

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Originally Posted by Nemesis

OK. I measured the outside. I'll check the inside.

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Im good boots on the measurements of the bolt head. Hoping the .140 fixes me up.

I think you have overlooked the most important part. That older bolt head probably has burrs in the extractor "T" slot. If the extractor does not slide easily with no spring, it will be even worse under tension. Check it with a case out of the action. The extractor should snap over a case rim by pushing it straight in without great effort. In some cases, when using the .140" ball, the spring is compressed too much and it puts excessive pressure on the ball, causing the extractor to bind. In this case, I grind about .025" off the spring.

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

I think you have overlooked the most important part. That older bolt head probably has burrs in the extractor "T" slot. If the extractor does not slide easily with no spring, it will be even worse under tension. Check it with a case out of the action. The extractor should snap over a case rim by pushing it straight in without great effort. In some cases, when using the .140" ball, the spring is compressed too much and it puts excessive pressure on the ball, causing the extractor to bind. In this case, I grind about .025" off the spring.

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Why not just go back to the original ball?

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

I think you have overlooked the most important part. That older bolt head probably has burrs in the extractor "T" slot. If the extractor does not slide easily with no spring, it will be even worse under tension. Check it with a case out of the action. The extractor should snap over a case rim by pushing it straight in without great effort. In some cases, when using the .140" ball, the spring is compressed too much and it puts excessive pressure on the ball, causing the extractor to bind. In this case, I grind about .025" off the spring.

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Extractor slides fine, no problems there. I'll take the bolt out and try the tip you provided when I get a chance...Thanks for the information.

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Originally Posted by Mach2

Why not just go back to the original ball?

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I ordered a factory Extractor and Ball. However, I went to check the status today, and it never went through. I forgot my bank has a block on charges to certain states, and the company I ordered from is in one of these blocked states. Have to give it another whril tomorrow. Be my luck, the stuff will be out of stock now or on back order...LOL

Just want to thank all that have replied to this thread. My new 12FLV would not properly extract a shell unless the bolt was pulled back very quickly, then it would hold on long enough for the ejector to just barely push the shell out of the gun. I took the extractor out and there was a very thin metal filing under the extractor. The filing was relatively flat but about 1/8" long. In addition there was a burr on the extractor and hardened grease or some other gunk under the extractor lip. Cleaned the lip, polished the extractor on some 1000 grit, reinstalled and it now works perfectly. Don't think I could have done it without those of you that have helped here.

Thanks to user, drybean, who hooked me up with .140 extractor balls, the old Savage is spitting out casing faster than politicians spit out lies now. Thanks again, drybean, for the help, and also everyone else who provided information about what to look for when trouble shooting something like this that I may run into in the future.